[Craig Edmeades]

Hi my name is Craig and i'm from Australia so i'm not very farmiliar with big block chev's. I have just bought a big block and obviously want to rebuild it before i put it into my ride.
From what i have read the heads i have are peanut port heads for torque or for trucks. Apparently they run out of breath at about 4000-4500rpm.
I have had a 5.0L (big cam)and a 5.7L in my ride over the years and got sick of the bug biting and just bought a big block. I don't realy care how much horse power it has at the end of the day(i'm no dyno queen) i just want it to go hard and be responsive with real good vacuum.(not much vacuum annoys me these days). My car is about 3800lbs with the big block, it's not a truck. I'm running a th400 gearbox so i want to be able to rev it to maybe 5500 sometimes, i know there is more than enough down low for the street.

The numbers off my heads are the 360 peanut heads which appear to be the best of the peanuts(follow the link below to flow numbers). Any idea if they will work for me. Keeping in mind i have a relatively small budget and realy want to drive my car soon. Hence why i chose the big block.

http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tablehdc.htm#Chevy

Thanks, regards Craig.

[ratlover]

I just did the same to my ride. i think the peanuts gotta go though. You may be able to port them, but i have not found near as much info for BBC as what is available for chrysler heads. so long as you can live with the rpm range, freshen it up and throw it in. You can always upgrade the heads later. you definitley want to at least re-ring and rebearing it. I would suggest new pistons and a bore. the cams seem to be a point of wear as well, so you'll likely have to budget for a cam and lifters. The stock intake and a 750 carb would probably do for the top end with the peanut heads. New oil pump too!
If the crank is not too worn you may be able to get away with a polish.

[xntrik]

Rat has the right idea.

What shape is the engine in now??? You didn't tell us what cubes and compression.

So I am guessing a 8.5 compression 454.

If it has decent compression and no smoke and considering your minimal budget I would do this and have fun:

Just because the heads lack flow above 5000 rpm doesn't mean that they will just quit you. Build for strong low and mid range... capitolize on the strengths that you have and gear for it.

Believing you don't have to bore and replace everything... and you can leave the short block intact...

DIY bowl port the heads and guides/ smooth and polish everything
5 angle valve job, back cut the valves
new valve springs appropriate for the cam
recommended flat tappet XE-262H series cam from CompCams
stock valve train
Edelbrock / Weiand Dual Plane intake for the heads
Spread bore carb 800 cfm
HEI ignition

This should get you 85 % horsepower. 454 x 85 % = 385 hp
and excellent mid range= 100 % torque..... 454 lb/ft.

go have fun smoking the tires...

check out www.readershotrods.com drag cars/geroges drag strip

[Craig Edmeades]

Thanks for your comments people! Just what i was after!
I was thinking the same about the heads, they wouldn't just quit breathing at 4500rpm, but may restrict a little. Looks like these heads will do just fine for what i'm after, great mid range!

I was thinking of a DIY port to? Just a bit of a tickle to knock some castings etc off.... nothing excessive. Then if i'm not makin enough smoke i can upgrade heads later on.(haha)

This motor has spun a cam bearing, with filings all through the sump etc...
Real shame to because the bores still have hone marks and no lip at all around the top of the bores.
Looks like a full rebuild hey.

[xntrik]

Originally Posted by Craig Edmeades

Thanks for your comments people! Just what i was after!
I was thinking the same about the heads, they wouldn't just quit breathing at 4500rpm, but may restrict a little. Looks like these heads will do just fine for what i'm after, great mid range!

I was thinking of a DIY port to? Just a bit of a tickle to knock some castings etc off.... nothing excessive. Then if i'm not makin enough smoke i can upgrade heads later on.(haha)

This motor has spun a cam bearing, with filings all through the sump etc...
Real shame to because the bores still have hone marks and no lip at all around the top of the bores.
Looks like a full rebuild hey.

Given the budget... I would pull it down, measure the bores and pistons, run a rigid hone with finish stones through it about 10 passes.... rering and bearing and go back with the old pistons. Unless the bores are too scratched.

Do a good DIY port job, you can't ruin those heads without just getting stupid with a tool. You'll have to match the Performer intake manifold by opening up the head runners. Don't go a full gasket match, just match the intake size.

You can save yourself about $ 600 by doing this.

[ratlover]

i agree. no point boring if you have no ridge and still see hatchmarks. have a machine shop fit the cam bearings though. might be a good idea to hot tank. the shop will most likely insist on it to work on it.

[Bumpstick]

All the info on the block is good but just dont see the point of the peanut ports... The large ovals (049`s & 781`s) just give and have alot more potential even with stock size valves and with future upgrades (larger valves and more cam) the whole package will be more to your satisfaction... A wider rpm range and good gearing will make it worth the extra effort...

[xntrik]

Originally Posted by Bumpstick

All the info on the block is good but just dont see the point of the peanut ports... The large ovals (049`s & 781`s) just give and have alot more potential even with stock size valves and with future upgrades (larger valves and more cam) the whole package will be more to your satisfaction... A wider rpm range and good gearing will make it worth the extra effort...

He said in # 1 quote .......Keeping in mind i have a relatively small budget and realy want to drive my car soon. Hence why i chose the big block...... quote

Most of us love OPM. Don't we? LOL

[Guy Hiltz]

I would agree with bumpstick and go with the larger oval port heads,you"ll be a lot happier in the long run.Stay away from the rectangular ports unless you can afford a bigger cam and want your power range in the 4000-6000 RPM range.Good Luck! I bet there arent too many Big Block Chevies Down Under!

[Bumpstick]

xntrik... Gotta squeaze`em for all their worth... (I could mail him a pair...?)

When it comes to BBC`s a man and his money are soon parted... (original by me...)

[xntrik]

Originally Posted by Bumpstick

When it comes to BBC`s a man and his money are soon parted... (original by me...)

Thou has well spoken, oh great Oracle..... amen amen

[Craig Edmeades]

Well said Bumpstick!!
Hence why i'm trying to stick to a budget build to get me on the road.
I have looked into getting some heads from the us(second hand)but i'm real worried about buying some heads that are cracked or damaged etc... also the cost of getting them here will be about 500$ (Aussie$) . Shipping costs/mail costs plus machine work (1500-1800$)to rebuild them is about the same as what i can buy some new aftermarket heads over here. Edelbrock etc...

If my peanut heads are in fair condition i might just use them for a while. I really don't want to spen alot if anything on rebuilding them. Money is best saved for heads worth spending $2000(aust) on.

I'll get my heads checked out in the next week or two by a machine shop, if they're no good, i won't rebuild them and i'll obviously need new ones.

I realy appreciate the helpful attitude everyone! Thanks!
ps. Every one thinks Small Block Chev's are the way to go over here! I like the idea of a Big Block Chev!

[454C10]

I find that most machine shops will set a BBC up too loose. I think they use the sbc clearance specs for the BBC. I had the best results with the mains and rods at 0.002" and the rear main at 0.003". And use a HV oil pump. 0.003" clearance will starve the top end of the engine of oil and wear out cam lobes and distributor gears.

[xntrik]

Originally Posted by 454C10

I find that most machine shops will set a BBC up too loose. I think they use the sbc clearance specs for the BBC. I had the best results with the mains and rods at 0.002" and the rear main at 0.003". And use a HV oil pump. 0.003" clearance will starve the top end of the engine of oil and wear out cam lobes and distributor gears.

Golly, how many miles does it take to wear .001 and ruin the top end ??? I thought cam lobes were lubed by the crank slinging oil???? Wouldn't too tight a clearance reduce oil to the lobes.?????

[KNIGHT07731]

you may want to check out this site, it's all about chevelles.
www.chevelles.com