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Old 03-11-2008, 07:44 PM
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Advice on buying new rearend...

I found a rearend for my 83 elcamino locally and was wondering what you guys think would be the best bang for the buck. build my rear or buy this one. I have no experiance in building rear ends or barely know what parts are what in there. He says it's came out of a 88 monte SS and it's a 7.5" 10 bolt posi with what he thinks are 373 gears and a aluminum bearing support cover for 300$. It's a direct bolt-in for my elky. I don't know much about rears I wanted to ask you guys what to look for that way I don't get scammed. Thanks for all your guys help. Any ideas or comments are welcome

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Old 03-11-2008, 08:20 PM
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Re: Advice On Buying New Rearend...

Hi people will want to know the combination(motor) hp, torque, tranny, its not a very big rearend if you go some go in your vehicle! spin the axles and count the yoke turns, that will give you a good ldea whether its a 3.73. Alot of people like the 3.73. to build a rearend you'll need tools and know how and deep pockets of money! TROY
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Old 03-11-2008, 09:44 PM
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Thanks troy, My setup is a 350 60 over. Doublev23 desktop dynoed it @ 440Ft/Lbs and 360HP. In the future when funds become available I'm planning on aluminum heads,maybe NOS and other goodies to bump the HP and TQ. In the process of building a TH350 with a 2400 stall. I will be running M/T street radials. It will be a street/strip car. I know the 7.5's are not very strong. If money were no object, I would look into getting a 8.5 out of a Grand National or older 442 but they are hard to find with a price tag under 750$. I'm breaking the bank just to get this 7.5. After that you have the 12 bolt and ford 9" But included is narrowing and welding new brackets to bolt up to my elky. All of these options are way out of my budget right now. I was going to put a posi unit in my rear but they are about as pricey as this complete rear from drum to drum. One tire fire just doesn't cut it. If it breaks because it's not strong enough I can live with that when the time comes. Basically I was wanting to know what to look out for when I go to inspect it. Correct me if im wrong but to check the gears you turn the wheel one full turn (with the tires off the ground) and if the yoke turns 3-3/4 times it's 3:73 gears or if it turns 3-1/2 times it's 3:50 gears, right? or do I have this backwards and your suppose to spin the yoke one full turn and read the tire? Also while its off the ground turning the wheel (in neutral) both tires should spin the same way? If it don't then the posi is wore out or it's not a posi? But what do I look for when I pull the cover? When I pull the cover I really have no clue what anything looks like. He said he drained the fluid and has new fluid and posi additive to go with it. Is he trying to hide something by draining the fluid? 373's are not going to be like 3K rpm @ 70mph are they? Thanks for bearing with me I just want to be as knowledgeable as I can when spending hard earned money.

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Old 03-12-2008, 01:16 AM
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That kind of power in a 7.5" rear means big boom. It won't take very many full throttle blasts to propel that ring gear right out the back of the axle.

8.5 will take it all day. Look for Grand National or turbo regal rear axles. They're a bolt-in 8.5" swap.
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Old 03-12-2008, 01:54 AM
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It would make sense to go bigger but don't have that kind of cash to throw around right now. The 8.5 is a direct bolt-in but the driveshaft has to be shortened which adds to the bill. I'm going to go and take a look at this 7.5 and if everything looks good i'll grab it for now. I just need to know what to look for. thanks
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:51 AM
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RE:Advice on buying rearend

Hi the rearend turns once the yok turns 3 3/4 =3.73, look l know we don't have deep pockets but its one thing to buy a rearend that just drops in, but in the last post you said that you are going to get the drive shaft shorten? Now if you go to all this work then run across a rearend that DOES drop right in and you don't have to shorten the driveshaft thats going to suck! The way your going to do it is going to cost you alot more than just waiting for the right one, just do the math and think about! lts your and your FAMILIES money. l know spring fever is here but there is alot of post on here that talk about to small of rearend, and by the way l've blown them up left and right and spent a s...load of money to try and make them strong, it just didn't happen, the last one came apart at 50 mph in my s-10 (BB) and that wasen't fun, your young think of your kids without a father! l know that, that thought is extreme, put it almost got me! you got pretty go power so it is very capable of blowing apart and coming right at ya! Sorry its not meant as a speech and l dont no everything, l just can't say its a good idea!! TROY
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:44 PM
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You don't need to shorten the driveshaft, just get the driveshaft from the donor 8.5 car. If your car came with a th350, 200C or 200-4r they'll all have the same length and output shaft as the 200-4r that the donor car probably has. $30 for a driveshaft isn't big bucks.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:51 PM
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Thanks for your replys,

Troy, I appreciate everything you said and it makes alot of sense. Curtis was talking about the 8.5" and I was saying that the driveshaft for the 8.5" had to be shortened. Not the 7.5" I was thinking about buying. The 7.5" is a direct bolt-in, in every way. I think you summed it up in two words "spring fever"!. I think i'm going to pass on this rear. I was just thinking that I could toss this in for now and later get one built. If I keep telling myself DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME I will be better off in many ways. Thanks for talking some sence into me guys. I will save some more cash and build a 12 bolt or 9".
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:08 PM
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Re: Advice On Buying New Rearend...

Hi thats a much sounder idea, your elky is still a driver? lf so then its only time until the right rearend drops in your hands!
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Old 03-15-2008, 04:10 AM
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Okay I have to confess, I bought the rear! I called him and told him that I was going to pass on the rear and out of nowhere he started telling me about how he was moving and blah blah blah... I got the rear for 100$ and gave him a used set of comps roller tip rockers! It was like I was possesed or something. LOL Both wheels turn true and does have 3.73 gears! But @ 100$ I couldn't pass it up. Everything aside I got a good deal, you can't find these for less than 350$ 400$. Well, atleast i'll have posi for a while.

Auctually Troy, my elky is completly stripped for a frame off resto, pics in my journal. Thats why this rear interested me because i was taking some parts to the sandblasters and was going to take my old rearend to get blasted and painted. It just seemed completely worthless to have it done to my peg-leg 2.5 ( or whatever) geared rear that I was only going to use till I could get one built. If this rear can survive long enough till I get a 9" or 12 bolt built I will resell it.

Some pics of the rear, Tell me what you think.


Anybody know if this is an auburn or eaton unit just by looking?

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Old 03-15-2008, 08:09 AM
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I would have bought it too. If you find an 8.5 before you get through building the Elky, sell it for a profit or just run it like it is.
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