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Old 01-06-2010, 09:35 PM
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Advice on painting a 29 Model A Highboy

I'm a do yourself guy, that has done some bodywork and painted 1 car 25 years ago that came out ok but could use some advice and tips.

I'm building a 29 roadster High boy on a 32 frame no hood or fenders.
I'll give you some background where I'm currently at and what my plan is and would appreciate any input.

1. Currently body is off the frame and not in real bad condition, New doors, firewall, trunk lid so all that needs some body work are the 2 rear qtr panels.
Highboy will not have fenders or a hood so not really much to paint.

2.Have the running gear complete but frame not painted and body is off frame.

My plan
1. Go ahead now and do bodywork and put into primer while body is off frame
2. Next Take running gear apart frome the frame and paint frame in final paint and color to match body color when body is painted
3. At the same time of painting the frame paint the under floor pan of the body with final color but don't paint complete body yet.
4. Attach front end and rear end to newly painted Frame to get a rolling chassis
5. Install the primered body carefully on the new color painted frame.
6. Bolt down body and adjust doors and trunk lid to work properly along with acceptable door gaps. I decided I would prefer to put the body back on the frame then do the final paint because I could adjust doors while it's still in primer and afraid if I painted all the pieces separate then tried to assemble the doors might not fit properly and screw up the new paint.
7. Then mask off the rolling chassis so just body is exposed and do the final paint job on the body while bolted to frame
8, Assembly the remaining running gear, wire, etc and do upholstery

Any tips for doing it this way?

When you paint the frame I assume you do it exactly the same as the body will be done with final clear coat?

How about the underneath the body on the floor plan, Do you just do a base coat or also clear?

I'm not trying to build a show car but at least a driver I will be proud of. Thanks for all your advice

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Old 01-07-2010, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtyetti
5. Install the primered body carefully on the new color painted frame.
6. Bolt down body and adjust doors and trunk lid to work properly along with acceptable door gaps.
Just a question here. Can you get easy access to the door jambs and perimeter of the door itself while it is hung? On most cars the door swings open and would be in the way. Just something to think about.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtyetti
How about the underneath the body on the floor plan, Do you just do a base coat or also clear?
I think you would want to shoot clear. The base coat will come out very flat looking and if your frame is bc/cc, the pan of the car would look like a different color. Plus bc alone really isn't meant to withstand the elements. The clear is there, in part, to protect the base and the sheet metal.

I'm a total novice, so there are far more experienced people to get advice from. But if you are interested, here is how I went about the painting process.

Frame painting can be found here.





Body prep and primer starts here.





BC/CC starts here.





Again, I'm just a rookie. So you can get better advice from the pros on this board. But this might give you some ideas to mull over.
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Last edited by cboy; 01-07-2010 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 01-07-2010, 10:30 AM
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There are many ways to skin the cat on this one.

I'm building a glass Deuce 3 window and to make it simple I just coated the underside (after sanding the gel coat) with truck bed coating. That stuff is hard as nails and it takes an act of Congress to scratch it.

If you are going to paint the underside of the body with BC/CC then you really need to clear it as well. Its the clear that provides the protection for the base.
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Old 01-07-2010, 01:15 PM
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I would undercoat the bottom, they sell colored undercoats but in very general colors, nothing matching.

Like everyone else said, the base will not protect anything by itself, you need to at least clear it, and then it will probably get all rock chipped and make for a possible rust issue.

If you want to have it color matched on the bottom, use a chip guard coat before painting http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintd...emno=SEM+39793, most paint dealers carry it, and yes you still need to clear it.

But if it's not a show car and you want to drive it around a lot, then black undercoating is what I would use.
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Old 01-07-2010, 01:56 PM
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Thanks for your information

Thanks so much for the information. I'm new to the forum and I have picked up valuable tips and information from all of your posts and I certainly appreciate that!!!

Since it won't be a show car but one I want to drive I think I will go the black undercoat route. there isn't much of a body anyways on the 29 High boy so thanks for that tip.

And I have considered painting the body on the car but removing the doors and trunk lid paint those separately and reinstall from your input.

I did have another question about mechanical? Do most of you assemble the complete car and test it out before you do final paint or do you just paint everything assemble then start it up and make any adjustments after final paint.

I was planning to bolt everything back to gather in primed state, run the car to make sure everything was ok, then take it all apart again down to bare frame before I do final paint color. Any opinions? And if that is acceptable what needs to be done to the primed body before I shoot final color?
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:31 PM
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Once again there are many ways to skin the cat.

You can do things just as you described and it will work fine. As a matter of fact that's the way most "show cars" are done. Since your building a driver, you could just go ahead and paint the frame, get all the mechanicals installed, get it running, and then paint and install the body. That's more or less what I'm doing with my deuce. The chassis is done and painted with the engine and trans installed. Working right now on rebuilding the carbs and making a small ignition panel with the necessary gauges so I can fire the engine, brake in the cam, and tune the center carb before installing the outside carbs. Once that's done I'll permanently install the body and move on to bodywork and paint.

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Old 01-08-2010, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtyetti

And I have considered painting the body on the car but removing the doors and trunk lid paint those separately and reinstall from your input.

I did have another question about mechanical? Do most of you assemble the complete car and test it out before you do final paint or do you just paint everything assemble then start it up and make any adjustments after final paint.

I was planning to bolt everything back to gather in primed state, run the car to make sure everything was ok, then take it all apart again down to bare frame before I do final paint color. Any opinions? And if that is acceptable what needs to be done to the primed body before I shoot final color?
Always do a mock up before paint, make sure all of your panels fit properly, and everything lines up, and then you disassemble whatever you need too to paint it.

Nothing sucks worse then painting something, then repainting something because you assumed it would be fine without checking.
Takes 10 minutes to check a panel, or 2 hours to repaint(if you have a booth that bakes paint) it's more like 6-24 for a garage guy.

Don't get caught up into rushing this step, it temps everyone when you get close to paint to start rushing... The most dramatic change to the project is paint, and everyone chomps at the bit to get it there.. To feel that sense of accomplishment, to see the fruits of their labor transforming in front of their eyes.
But that accomplishment is dulled when that body line doesn't match up with the fender, then the justifications and excuses start to flow like a raging river...
"That body line is only a inch off", or "The door only hits the fender when it's hot outside..."
The real joy to this is to know everything is mocked up, and after the paint is dry you have nothing but smooth sailing putting everything back together.
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Old 01-08-2010, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cutterbond
Always do a mock up before paint, make sure all of your panels fit properly, and everything lines up, and then you disassemble whatever you need too to paint it.

Nothing sucks worse then painting something, then repainting something because you assumed it would be fine without checking.
Takes 10 minutes to check a panel, or 2 hours to repaint(if you have a booth that bakes paint) it's more like 6-24 for a garage guy.

Don't get caught up into rushing this step, it temps everyone when you get close to paint to start rushing... The most dramatic change to the project is paint, and everyone chomps at the bit to get it there.. To feel that sense of accomplishment, to see the fruits of their labor transforming in front of their eyes.
But that accomplishment is dulled when that body line doesn't match up with the fender, then the justifications and excuses start to flow like a raging river...
"That body line is only a inch off", or "The door only hits the fender when it's hot outside..."
The real joy to this is to know everything is mocked up, and after the paint is dry you have nothing but smooth sailing putting everything back together.
This is good advice and I should have been clearer in my post above. My body has been on and off the frame 6 or 7 times doing all the mock up work so don't think you can easily skip this step and have a nice finished product. Once you have everything mocked up it is sometimes easier, especially if you're working alone, to go ahead and mount the body on the frame in order to do bodywork and paint. Now, if you've got a half dozen guys in your neighborhood that can help you pick up a totally painted body and install it on the frame without scratching it, then painting the body off the frame is a definite option.... but do the mock up first no matter which way you wind up painting it.
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