So you think I am going "overboard" on the bottom end?
In your opinion what is a "safe" max power level for the stock crank and block assuming just an upgrade to ARP studs? 400-500?
I have "access" to VERY low pricing on machine work (read friend who can do "government work" at his machine shop) BUT if you think line honing is not really something to worry about then I might just save some money, time and effort.
ROD/STROKE ratio certainly DOES have an effect on power. It's simple physics and mechanical advantage. The longer rod also contributes to lowering the piston speed and lets it spend a little more "time" near and just after TDC on the power stroke.
I want this motor to live thru excursions up into the high 6000 rpm range.
Here in CT we must have a different "breed" of ricers, there are PLENTY of cars out here with turbos and plenty of torque, I have SEEN with my own eyes a few turbo'ed Hondas putting down 400HP to the front wheels! Also, they have a few hundred pound weight advantage. I myself had a Turbo Charged 2.0L VW engine that put out in the high 300 HP range and would turn up to about 9,000RPM safely, on a STOCK bottom end! (for a few years in the early to mid 90's VW used all FORGED internals crank, rods, pistons.)
That was in an 86' GTI that weighed only 2300lbs!
SO what I am saying is with at 3300lbs I NEED 400-500HP to smoke em'