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Old 08-14-2013, 07:04 AM
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Widetrack is right about cutting a patch and butt welding it in for the best repair on the roof, BUT....

Since you indicate your novice level of welding, I suggest you start with some floor patchs and leave the light for later. If you have the leak stopped with the silicone, it's good for now. Get some hands on experience with panel shaping and welding where the work isn't as critical for visual affect. This will build your self confidence for patchs that will be seen later.

From the pics of the windshield, I see no reason to pull it now. That would be one of the last things on the "to do" list, when you're close to primering the whole cab.

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Old 08-18-2013, 07:47 AM
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Brandon

I just breezed through your post I think I have something to help you out. PM me and I will send you something you can roll on your floors, seal your windshield and also help you with your patchwork.
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:22 AM
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Hello again. Sorry its taking me awhile to reply. Seems like things crop up like weeds whenever I try to work on my own vehicles. Good thing I'm a patient person.

TooManyProjects: Leaving the cargo light until later seems like a good idea, I will take your advice and worry about it down the road.

I guess I was mainly focusing on the roof because its the worst looking part of the truck.

Probably around the windshield is more important, I really don't want that to get any worse, not only is it pretty hard to reach, but its also structurally sound at this point. Driving around without the trim on probably isn't a good idea.

Having some trouble locating the bottom clips for the trim. Paint and Body supply store didn't have them, neither did the glass place I stopped at. They said dealer only, personally I doubt the dealer still has them available. Worse comes to worse I can hunt the upullit.

Something is leaking around the cowl/firewall, papers I had in the glove box got wet on the bottom edge, so that area will prob need some attention fairly soon.

Or should I just pull the interior and head straight for the floor?

I'm taking a metal cabinet I have at home into the shop today to put the paint/body supplies in. It needs a little attention as well, but nothing too serious. This will free up the wooden cabinet for storing various interior pieces. My windshield trim is already on top of it.


Pats55: Well I can certainly use all the help I can get! I shall PM you just as soon as I figure out how.

Another photo, this one shows the engine bay. I probably should have gotten in there and spent a couple days cleaning and painting while the engine was out, but I'm not really aiming for fancy, just serviceable. You can see my old hood in the background, kept it figuring it might be handy for testing.

The engine at least is shiny
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:57 AM
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If you have a NAPA store, they have a "Help" section with many hard to find clips and things of that nature. They may be able to come up with the clips, but don't rule out a dealer either. Some of those clips fit many models and years and they may still have them available. Cost would be my concern, as they usually are more than an aftermarket replacement part.

The trim will only prevent any weathering from sun. It won't prevent rust or seal leakage. The wet glove box is a concern. I would use a squirt bottle to wet the cowl/windshield area slowly and in small sections to see when/where it starts leaking and trace it back from there. Could be the windshield seal is leaking or a rust hole in the cowl under the vent grille.

Removing the seat and floor covering to get the full picture of issues there is a good place to start. You can always throw the seat back in to drive it and some throw rugs on the floor for noise reduction. I'm betting there are sections you can work on with the seat in. Throw some burn blanckets over the seat and dash areas to prevent damage from grinding and welding. Cover the glass too. Those sparks melt into glass instantly...
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:29 AM
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All very good advice "too Many Projects", not only will removing the seats and other interior pieces allow you to work on the cab, it will show more of what's needed to be done...don't rule out that other cab and doors just yet.

Also, NAPA (or any other respectable supplier), if they don't have your clips in stock, they do have a catalogue with pictures of all the clips you could imagine...bring in a sample if you can and they could order them if needed.

The leak into the glove box is a concern...from my experience it is often due to a separation of the bottom of the windshield from the frame. All the water runs down from all over the windshield and gravity makes it collect there. Even get a hose and wet the windshield down while watching the inside of the glove box...you may need to remove the windshield in order to do a proper and permanent repair.

Keep us informed as well as keeping the pictures coming.

The PM thing...I figured that one out...I was so proud...but, you've got the posting pictures thing down pat...I'm jealous...LOL.

Ray
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:09 AM
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I've run into some financial issues and the truck is going to have to wait a while. Work of course has slowed down, I seem to have problems getting time, money, and motivation all herded together in one spot.

And sadly, the rust damage looks to be worse in the floor pan area than I thought it was, maybe anyway.

I was driving the other day and hit a good sized bump in the middle of a left hand turn and the truck made a horrible noise and I felt feedback through the steering wheel. Since I had just replaced the radius arm on that side (also radius arm bushings, pivot bushing, and front sway bar bushings) I decided I'd better crawl under and have a look to make sure nothing was loose.

It was all tight, and I have since had it on the lift to double check, but when I was underneath the truck I pushed up on the cab and saw the front cab mount move. It looks like one of the rivets mounting the bracket to frame is missing, either the factory missed it or it fell out a long time ago.

I guess it may not have anything to do with the rust I'm seeing, but it makes me paranoid to be able to lay on my back and move my cab up and down and watch the bracket on the frame move. I guess it does mean its all tied together anyway, lol.

I did get a quart of MasterCoat primer from Pats55 (Ray) and I would like to Thank him once again. I have PM'd him to see if it will get along with the Valdspar DTM2035 primer I already had. Even if it doesn't, I have plenty of rust areas to go around so finding a place for both shouldn't be an issue.

Anyway, I just wanted to give you folks an update on the situation.

Brandon.

Edit: I think the noise may be the powersteering pump, its the only engine accessory that isn't new and I know it is getting stiff and worn. I wanted to put a Saginaw (GM) pump on it but they no longer make the conversion pump and I couldn't find an F series van with a straight 6 in it when I had the engine out. Ford put the Saginaw pump on the vans for some reason and I can convert my truck over if I can get the bracket and pulley from a van. I think the extra load on the pump from hitting the bump while in a turn may have caused the pump extra stress, perhaps enough to make the noise and would account for the feedback in the steering wheel.

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Old 08-27-2013, 07:03 AM
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That financial thing, your not alone...it never ends.

After reading your post, it might be an idea to keep that other cab and doors in the back of your mind...I will be willing to help where I can, no matter what...to me it just sounds like the further your getting into this, the more your going to find....just a thought.

Ray
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:13 PM
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Yeah, the money thing is always an issue, but I will get it done, just not as soon as I was hoping.

Might actually be better in the long run, 2 or 3 months down the road the humidity will drop a lot and the constant rain should be over with.

Yep, I expect this will be one of those jobs that never seems to end. That's basically what is making me leery, I really dislike starting a job I know I don't have enough to finish, especially if thing go way wrong.

I may still be able to patch the floors and get the cab in primer.

There are a lot of these truck around, maybe I can use this to my advantage.

I was thinking I could cut the parts I need out of one (or more) of those trucks and weld it into mine. I imagine it would be some more work, but I think I may be able to get what I need for little or nothing.


Is this something that's realistically possible?

If it is, can I weld it together with .035 flux core?




69 widetrack, you have already helped me considerably and I look forward to your future advice, Thank you.

And Thank you to the others who have chimed in with help as well.

Brandon.
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:26 PM
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Oh, I almost forgot, maybe I can help some of you guys out for a change.

Have you seen this site?

The Official Shop of Ingersoll Rand | Free Shipping | Paint Sprayers, Impact Wrenches

Scroll down a bit and there are a bunch of regulators and filters and what have you. I happened across this on the garageboardjournal site. Several people there have ordered from them and are pretty happy.

One thing to pay attention to is the thread on the units, most of them are NPT, National Pipe Thread, but some are BSP, whatever that may be - something British I think, but they are labeled.

Brandon.
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:28 PM
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Brandon, your more than welcome and I do appreciate the kind words.

I read what you said about 2 or 3 more months and the rain should stop...LOL...2 or 3 more months and we will be butt high in snow...you don't have to shovel rain...LOL

Realistically it is possible to weld pieces off of one cab on to another, it is a lot of work, a lot of pieces to fit which means a lot more that could go wrong and yes a flux core welder with .035 wire could work, it may not be my welder of choice but there are many that swear by it, I have used them in the past, they do weld.

I sincerely do understand your dilemma, money being tight and all. I also understand your trepidation with changing cabs...Brandon it is understandable but, just let me tell you, the first time I changed over a cab, I was scared to death...took my time and replaced one piece from the old cab to the new cab at a time and before the job was done...the fear was gone. Don't rule out changing cabs, even with the VIN situation...keep it in the back of your mind, it might be easier than the big job looks like and I would love to be in a situation where I'm giving assistance in painting it.

Regardless of what you decide, there are many of us here that are willing to help.

Keep the faith my friend and all will turn out...somehow it always does.

Ray
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Old 08-27-2013, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldF250XLT View Post
Oh, I almost forgot, maybe I can help some of you guys out for a change.

Have you seen this site?

The Official Shop of Ingersoll Rand | Free Shipping | Paint Sprayers, Impact Wrenches

Scroll down a bit and there are a bunch of regulators and filters and what have you. I happened across this on the garageboardjournal site. Several people there have ordered from them and are pretty happy.

One thing to pay attention to is the thread on the units, most of them are NPT, National Pipe Thread, but some are BSP, whatever that may be - something British I think, but they are labeled.

Brandon.
Thanks for the link Brandon...I'm going to forward it to a friend that I know is looking for a couple of items I saw...great price on regulators too.

Ray
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:16 AM
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Money being tight is a subject familiar to most of us.

Cutting out patchs from other floors and welding them into yours is'nt much different than buying repro panels. The extra work is the cutting out but you will have better fitting panels then too, so they would be a bonus in my opinion. Like Ray said, flux core welders are harder to use, especially on thin material but it will get the job done.

On the steering noise and feedback......if the cab is moving, especially on the left side, it may be putting down pressure on the steering column which could cause binding and noise. I had this situation on a customer Ford truck a number of years ago. He had taken the truck to another repair shop where they replaced the king pins and other steering related parts and never got the bind or noise to go away. After many hundreds of dollars he brought it to us and I found the front cab mount and body bushing had sagged allowing the cab to rest on the column. Needless to say he wasn't happy with the other shop after I repaired it for well under $100...
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:25 AM
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Good point Too Many Projects, having experienced the same problem always helps out. As I mentioned, I'm prepared to offer advice and help where I can, as more information comes in, I'm leaning stronger towards replacing the cab instead of using donor cabs. With the situation of cab mounts and cab floor being in the condition that they are, swapping out a cab may in fact even be cheaper and less time consuming in the long run with a more structurally sound end result.

I know Brandon...I understand, just voicing my opinion...once again...LOL

Ray
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:53 PM
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I'm pretty sure the powersteering thing is just the pump giving up. I know its on its last legs, but I'm hoping to get the Saginaw conversion done before it dies. I was fairly certain it was the pump before I crawled under there, but since I'd had the whole front end apart recently I thought I'd better double check.

Good catch on the body resting on the column though, I shall have to remember that, we work on a lot of Ford trucks, mostly newer than mine but some of the company owned ones get treated pretty roughly.

I'm not afraid of changing cabs, I would prefer it really. I've done every thing I would need to in order to switch them, just not all at one time.

The title/vin issue and the up front money, plus the cost of the extras are the problem. Like the core support for instance, it has the common rotted out spots like most of these trucks, so I would have to replace it if I pulled the clip.

At the very worst I expect I will learn a lot through the process of repairing it.

I would really like to completely restore a vehicle actually worth the effort some day and this will be excellent practice I would think. Short of burning it to the ground nothing I might do is likely to lower its value.

I have made a little progress, I got the funky bottom window trim clips. They are used but in good shape, and they were free. Handed to me even, lol.

I also put the new lock in the driver door, and adjusted the striker plate so it shuts pretty good now. I put new bushings in this door a couple weeks ago.

Napa only reordered one hinge pin kit, so I'm waiting on the other one, along with another striker to do the passenger side.

I had the striker but they sold us the wrong one for a '95 Bronco we worked on today and it needed the same one I happened to already have handy luckily. (Nice bronco, 95 eddie bauer, 83k original, garaged)

The Napa's around here are awful. If you don't give them their part # and tell them whether or not they have it in the store they only get it right about 1 out of 3 times. Maybe half on a good week. And they are extremely slow no matter what week it is.

I always get a good chuckle out of their "We Have Hard To Find Parts" sign.

They definitely have a hard time finding them, he he.

After the door I plan on pulling the carpet, headliner, and trim panels out. I will clean it up and knock off the loose rust and take some photos so I can show you guys exactly what I have to deal with. (The thought of seeing that scares me more than the idea of changing a cab quite honestly.)

Oh, the cab is only down maybe a quarter inch or so. I will cut out the stretched rivets and replace them with grade 8 bolts.

Photo #1 is the bracket I'm talking about, but its the one on the passenger side, and its in good shape, but the photo I have of the driver side mount doesn't show the rivets that hold the bracket to the frame.

The rivet that corresponds to one you see in the middle left side of the photo is the stretched one, the one directly in front of that one is gone, looks like its been missing for years.

The bottom two are a little loose as well I imagine as the bracket pivots on them allowing the cab to move up and down a quarter inch or so.

Photo #2 is the bad area of the core support. Prolly won't collapse until I can get to it, I hope.

Thanks for reading, Brandon.
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:08 PM
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I was going to say that the mount looks fine...then I reread your post...LOL. The rad support, for the cost of a replacement, should go, it's pretty tough.

Once you get the interior gutted it will be much easier to tell how bad it really is, just take a lot of pictures Brandon and we will get through it.

It always amazes me when I hear things like the NAPA I deal with is slow, or gets the wrong parts...I know it happens and it's all about people...it goes right to management, if the management doesn't care, it filters down to the employees and well, if the boss don't care, a why should we kind of attitude happens.

I really wonder how some of those places stay in business.

Ray
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