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Old 03-27-2005, 10:35 AM
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Aerostar Body panel repairs

Hello All
I'm new here, but have done some body work. Restored my 66 Shelby with some help. But I have a question, Should I flange weld the side panel of my van on or flush weld it? I would like to glue then weld it up. I have done a search and have read many ideas. But this panel is long.
I am also replacing my rockers and have to makeup some floor pans. Any thoughts?
A side note, I'm also making up a spare tyre box. I hate that hanger for the spare.


Last edited by CdnSoldier; 03-27-2005 at 10:36 AM. Reason: missed a word
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Old 03-27-2005, 07:14 PM
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It sounds like you're the victim of Northern winters as well. The panel glue is good stuff but you can't weld right next to it, the stuff will just come apart with that much heat. Some of the adhesives can be used with a resistance spotwelder but the heat is minimal. You can flush weld it also but that is a long panel-(I'm assuming this is the lower van side panel that stretches from the driver's door to the rear wheel opening) The factory style flange joint is a good way to go but you need to pack that seam with a good quality seamsealer after applying some metal primer for it to hold up. The factory just ran a bead of sealer along the outside edge of the seam but the rust just forms from the inside and works it's way out. If you seal the seam off well it will hold up just fine. Fill the lower seam and rocker panel seam with a good cavity wax (3M RUSTFIGHTER works good) from the inside. Bob

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Old 03-27-2005, 10:01 PM
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Are you replacing those rockers with OEM full rockers? And what part of the floor are you talking about? Those rockers go half the way up the darn side of the van, I think they are above the floor level where it seams to the quarter.

Anyway, if you have a complete rocker and don't have to replace the bottom of the quarter, this is how I would do it. I would cut the rocker off about one inch below the seam with the quarter. Then I would trim off the pinch weld lip on the rocker so it just barely hangs over, leave only about 3/32" lip. Grind what is left of the rocker real good with a 3" ROLOC 24 grit angle grinder and go into the seam a little, cleaning up all the seam sealer. Grind the back of the new rocker the same way so the adhesive will have a nice large area of bare metal to adhere to. Trial fit the rocker and make sure the rocker lip fits into the seam enough so the ground areas will touch flush and tight. Put a small #6 sheet metal screw every six inches or so to maintain that nice fit along the seam. If you have to you can "open" up the seam a little with a gentle massaging with a wide, thick putty knife.

Bond the panel on, welding it in other spots if you wish, but that long seam will be just bonding. You want to cover up all bare metal on both parts with adhesive with a brush after you bead it out. Place the rocker into position and screw it snug, BUT DON'T OVER TIGHTEN THEM, just snug. Once it is cured you clean up the seam and prime it. Mask the seam for a nice 3/16" or so wide bead of urethane seam sealer and after application press it in nice with your finger by running it down the seam in one motion.

There you go.

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Old 03-28-2005, 04:28 PM
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Thanks Fellas
For starters, the panels are from Cross Canada (aftermarket). You cannot buy the Floor, or just the rocker now from Ford.
The rockers are RS full not that bad to install, can use org spots. The LH well is a shortie type. The side panel, I am told is like the Continental ones, full form. The floor I'll have to makeup. I was going to try a Ranger or Explorer one. But they are too flat. The rocker sills are the easiest, it just flat sheet, with the holes for the plugs.
The reason I was asking about glueing and welding. I'm trying to get the best fit and bond strength. Aeros have the habit of rusting out fast. Some people would say, it's only an Aero, but with 110Ks on it, all mine. It's a cheap new veh. How many loaded 10 yr old vehs can you find with 110Ks. I will be spending about 2000$ to get it if you can call it new for another 10 yrs. How many loaded 10 yr old vehs can you find with 110Ks for 2-3000$ Thats for new AC condent, the trans input seal, custom exaust and some interior work (link: Plus a overhead DVD/TV, Play Station and 2 new centre caps. I have some custom ideas, removing the spare tyre and building a trunk instead of the hanger. Adding 2 extra most rear Capt chairs. I should be finished by fall.
Thanks again Dave
I may have been too indepth, but I hope you get what I'm looking for.
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