Afraid to color sand my new base coat / clear coat. Can I go straight to fine cut? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:02 PM
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Afraid to color sand my new base coat / clear coat. Can I go straight to fine cut?

Fresh base coat / clear coat. Some orange peel, but overall looks pretty good. Would like to take it to the next level while the clear is still soft, but I've never color sanded and I'm worried about taking off too much clear, or causing some other damage. Would it be at least somewhat effective to go straight to a fine cut polishing compound with a rotary polisher? If so, I could use a compound recommendation. I think I would follow up with a glaze, but no wax, at least not until the paint has had time to fully cure - or should I wait on the glaze for the same reason (would the glaze seal the paint too soon?). Paint job is 4 days old. Thanks

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Old 05-22-2012, 08:30 PM
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You did not advise how many coats of clear you put on the car. You should not have to worry about color sanding the car as long as you don't take off more than the orange peel. Going straight to the compound will not help your orange peel. I think you will probably be glad if you color sand it with 1000 grit and then 1500. Then go to your compound. There are all kinds of threads here on the forum that will give you plenty of guidance. 2 or 3 good wet coats of clear ar all you need. It takes a lot of sanding to take off 1 coat of clear. Good luck

John L
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:18 PM
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Another thing is to do a "flow coat" where you would cut that flat with 1000 and then put another two coats, hopefully a little flatter too.

Brian
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:21 AM
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I agree with Brian on the flow coats. If you have less than 3 coats of clear on it now wet sand it with 800-1000 grit but be carefull on body lines and edges not to cut through. Then give it at least two more good wet coats of clear. If you clean everything up good before you reshoot it should almost look like its been buffed.I've even masked off the car so I could reshoot smaller areas on the reclear if I wasn't pressed for time. Less overspray and less trash in the final job.
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:14 AM
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I LOVE cutting and buffing a paint job to perfection, it's a friggin high for me.

I do it all wet paper still, I can't get into that dry sanding clear. If you you are just doing a little nib and buff, yeah it's ok. But to get a real nice cut and buffed job, it's got to be wet for me.

As mentioned, you stay off the edges of body lines and the ends of panels until you are really comfortable with it. If you think about it, that buffer is going to cut on those edges quite a bit, if you leave it un-sanded, it WILL get cut with the buffer. There is absolutely no reason to sand those areas. And if you see something afterword, go back and do it, it's not like you can't later.

Use a CLEAN bucket, I am talking clean enough to drink the water out of and this is NOT an exaggeration. You don't want anything that could get on your finish while you are rubbing super fine sand paper! So I make sure it is CLEAN, beyond CLEAN and so is the water and so is ANYTHING that gets anywhere near that water or the surface of what I am sanding. You want the fender or what ever you are working with to be SPOTLESSLY clean. This eliminates a LOT of headaches.

Use a rubber squeegee to wipe away the water and sanding residue often.


3M #05517 and there are a few other numbers for different sizes. Meguires Power buffing compound Click here is my favorite, it requires much less than it's 3M competitor, just a table spoon will get you a few square feet looking like a mirror.

I use the Meguiars sandpaper (repackaged Unigrit) but for the finish, for the final, 3M Mirror Glaze #7 is it for me. But honestly, if it's a street car daily driver sort of thing, don't sweat it, Mirror glaze doesn't last long at all so it's a no. But you can paste wax over it too. There is NOTHING that looks like Mirror Glaze that I know of. I haven't been at a indoor car show set up lately but Mirror Glaze #7 is by far was the most used when I was, there is simply nothing like it.

Brian
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:24 AM
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3M has a hand glaze I started using a couple years ago instead of Mirror Glaze. My paint guy said it was better than Mirror Glaze and I called shenanigans. I think he was right, it seems to be one product that works better than a Meguiars product. Maybe since they bought Meguiars, they're utilizing some of Meguiars chemists to make some of their own products better. I'm a die hard Meguiars fan so to change me from Mirror Glaze to something else wasn't too easy.
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Old 05-23-2012, 12:01 PM
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Body Lines.

Before i start sanding the clear (or paint)i mask off the body lines with the blue tape,after sanding the big parts,i take off the tape,and sand those edges CAREFULLY,same with buffing,too many times ive burnt thru with a buffer.
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Old 05-23-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeb
Fresh base coat / clear coat. Some orange peel, but overall looks pretty good. Would like to take it to the next level while the clear is still soft, but I've never color sanded and I'm worried about taking off too much clear, or causing some other damage. Would it be at least somewhat effective to go straight to a fine cut polishing compound with a rotary polisher? If so, I could use a compound recommendation. I think I would follow up with a glaze, but no wax, at least not until the paint has had time to fully cure - or should I wait on the glaze for the same reason (would the glaze seal the paint too soon?). Paint job is 4 days old. Thanks
Be more afraid of the buffer than the sandpaper. Provided you have enough clear on the car, just sand until orange peel is gone and STOP. I've been using 1200 wet on a glazing block followed by 3M rubbing compound and a wool pad on the buffer. Use the wool until the sanding scratches are gone and the paint shines and STOP. Then switch to foam pad and swirl remover polish. Stay away from edges and ridges and keep the rpms down, im not sure the exact rpm i use but i start very slow so not to sling the compound too much and work my way up. You dont need to use a ton of compound either, just dont let the panel get totally dry. Lots of buffing vids on you tube you can look at too.

Also, dont forget to clean the wool pad from time to time, i use a paint stick with the buffer running to clean it out.

This is what you should have when sanded. A uniform matte appearance. Note how I stayed away from the top edge and the wheel lip(it looked fine, no OP)



and then after buffing...



Andy

Last edited by novafreek6872; 05-23-2012 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:07 PM
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I appreciate all the useful information and tips. The car has 2 good coats of clear (PPgOmni) and was shot with the intent of color sanding. The painter, unfortunatly just couldn't keep going due to his bad hips. In fact, his surgery was pushed up and he's in hospital now. I want to invest in a good rotary and I believe I'm looking at the two most popular models (Makita and DeWalt). It seems I couldn't go wrong with either. Per a suggestion I searched You Tube for some how-to's. One guy (Your friend Pete, he calls himself) wet sanded with a DA all the way to 4,000 grit and seemed to get great results. Should DA wet sanding (with light paper) be avoided by amateurs? Thanks.
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeb
Should DA wet sanding (with light paper) be avoided by amateurs?
In a word

Wet sand it and take your time! Wet sanding is enough of a learning curve DO NOT use a DA.

Brian
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
In a word

Wet sand it and take your time! Wet sanding is enough of a learning curve DO NOT use a DA.

Brian
brian could you clarify that please LOL
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:15 PM
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Done! Visited my local paint and body supplies jobber and bought what he recommended, a 3M white compounding foam pad, 3M black finishing (polishing) foam pad, a bottle of wizards "Turbo Cut" and bottle of Wizards "Finish Cut". He recommended I stay away from a wool pad due to my inexperience, saying the 3M pads stay cooler. I decided on the Makita rotary buffer (mainly because all my corded power tools are Makita). Wet sanded first with 3M 1500 grit then 2000 grit. Checked sanding progress with 3M squeegie. Followed advice from this forum and found some good You Tube demonstrations. Went great. Time consuming but fun. Got over my fears after the first panel. Still need to touch up a few spots where I left a little haze. Very gratifying! And it was certainly needed! Will post pics after I finish mountig my trim, etc. Thanks again all.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:36 PM
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Ain't life good? Glad it is working out for you. Nothing is more satisfying than to watch a paint job come alive when you color sand and buff it.

John L
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