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Old 11-01-2010, 08:52 AM
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aftermarket e-coating.

Hey, I am sure I'm not the only one who has run into this but I am seeing it more and more. A lot of the keystone aftermarket parts we get, we have to remove the e-coating. Simply because it is laquor based. We found this out because we did a few bumper jobs where they came back because the paint didn't want to stick. So we strip them to raw plastic, adhesion promote then prime. When did they start using this primer? And is there another alternative?

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Old 11-01-2010, 01:40 PM
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I've heard a lot of complaints from different shops about those problems. however, I've also seen how those same shops prep their parts. Half arse sanding and expect what they spray on to adhere properly.

I personally haven't had any issues with it. I throughly scuff the surface with a red scuff pad and seal with DuPont color shading sealer then paint. Haven't had any comebacks yet.

I used to just bulldog the parts previously but depending on color it would take more coats to cover and at todays prices it's just not affordable to go that route any more.
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:13 PM
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i haven't had any problems my self either,knock on wood,lol!!!

i scuff the plastic with red scotch pad with water then clean with water born wax and grease remover.

seal with my deltron sealer system and spray away,has been working this way for a long time.hope it continues to work


i use a lot of Keystone aftermarket parts as im in the collision repair side and have never really liked the aftermarket e-coat as well .

but the parts have come along way compared to 15 years ago,wow what a joke.
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:30 PM
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Don't you just love how you have to fix every scratch and manufacturing defect before you can prep for paint!
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjperotti
Don't you just love how you have to fix every scratch and manufacturing defect before you can prep for paint!

its great


i can tell 9 outta 10 bumper covers i get will have to have some repair work done,lol!!!!!!!!!!

anymore i dont grip about it b/c its just part of the job


almost all the sheetmetal i get will have a ding,rolled corner or some sort of crap.

and i always buy the capa certified brand,doesnt matter dont guess the overseas can help it
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Old 11-01-2010, 03:24 PM
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I try to buy the Capa certified brand too, but sometimes don't have the choice with some customers. At least with cap parts they do discount when they come damaged.
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:31 PM
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Yeah, every parts gets checked in and 95% of the time work gets done to it. Depending on the insurance company we just suppliment the repair time. If some of you want, take a rag with a little lacquor thinner on it and rub a spot on the bumper that gets hidden behind a grill or something, I'm sure its going to rub off. They are defenetly using a 1k primer. The come backs we had our paint stuck to their primer but their primer didn't stick to the bumper. Oh well, we just strip it all off now.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panelwagon62
Yeah, every parts gets checked in and 95% of the time work gets done to it. Depending on the insurance company we just suppliment the repair time. If some of you want, take a rag with a little lacquor thinner on it and rub a spot on the bumper that gets hidden behind a grill or something, I'm sure its going to rub off. They are defenetly using a 1k primer. The come backs we had our paint stuck to their primer but their primer didn't stick to the bumper. Oh well, we just strip it all off now.

most of the time solvent borne WGR will start taking off the Primer
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:31 AM
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Actually the stuff we use barley touches it that's why we use thinner.
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:49 AM
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Plastic aftermarket bumper primers are not e-coat, but a sprayed 1K coating.

Though some are reversible, most we have seen are adhering well to the plastic.

The primer on the steel parts is e-coat, and usually decent quality, especially if it appears somewhat glossy.
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