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Old 10-13-2005, 03:33 PM
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aftermarket harness = confused

I bought a wiring harness off speedwaymotors last year for $160, 23 circuits(I will probibly never use half of them) and its a nice harness no complants there. The problem is there is no intstructions!! they gave me a booklet the reads off the number, color, and what it does(big deal I could read that off the wire itself).
The harness is made to be plugged into a GM steering colum(which I am not using) I will be using a switch panal with a push botton start and a universal blinker assembly.
Heres my questions: I am starting by sorting out the ignition wires. There is a red wire thats always hot that I will wire to one side of the Ignition toggle switch. Now there is two pink wires labeled: Ign switch coil, Ign Eng. the coil wire is on a connector with the red wire(to go to the factory steering colum), and the Ign eng pink wire is by itself. There is also a brown Ign switch Acc. wire (I assume this would be when you roll the key back in a normal car.)

There is also two relays, one is for the horn, the other has two heavery gage wires called: pink - Relay Ign Power, orrange - Relay A. They said in the "instructions" the the relays having nothing to wire, just install under dash. ?

What do I wire to my ignition toggle switch, the red Ign switch pwr wire should go on one side of the toggle switch, whats on the other side? All the other ign wires?
I just want to flip the ign switch and have everything hot and ready to rock a roll! I dont care about having the acc. option since there will be no radio or doom light or heater or much of anything.

By the way, the harness was made for a one wire alt. so I assume I would run one wire from the post on the alt to the battery or positive post of starter. Yet there is a wire thats labeled alt. exciter? what do I do with that.

any help would be great!!

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Old 10-13-2005, 05:00 PM
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Wow!

Doc here,

Wow, those instructions leave a LOT to be desired!!!

First off, unless you have a special "High Current toggle" switch, you can't (for very long at least) Run the Car's ignition through it unless there is a control relay..

Toggles (standard) contacts are usually only good for about 5 amps continuous, The coil alone, should draw about 6 amps..not to mention switched circuits..without melting and burning up! The wire gauges should give you a clue there..

Get an Aftermarket "Generic" Ignition switch to solve that problem..


http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...number=UN12141


Now , on to the wires...

From what you describe, I'll try to **guestimate** their termination points..(you may want to verify with a DMM set to R x 1 to be sure..)

The RED wire will run to the Starter solenoid main Battery Terminal, and join to (if not already on the harness) a Proper Fuse Link..This will give uninterrupted -->FUSED<-- power to the "hot " side of the key..

Pink #1 Will go to the BATT side of your HEI or if non HEI, to a Ballast Resistor (For stock Configuration Points type) Then the other side of the Ballast to the + Side of the coil..

Check Pink #2..see if it has power (or continuity) on "Run" only..or if it only has continuity in "Start , and then none in run...If it has continuity in "Run" check it to verify that it goes to the Fuse buss IGN side of the fuses..This will be the wire that heats up the rest of the car in "Run"..

On the relays, sounds like their prewired (except to the horn itself) just mount them safely away..

The Brown wire (Ign ACC) should go to a --->FUSE LINK<--- and pick up power at the starter solenoid main battery terminal, this is the wire that will provide power in the ACC position on the key ...OR it could be the one that PROVIDES ACC power to the ACC side of the fuse buss..to verify that, turn the switch to ACC and look for power on that wire..If so..that's where it goes..(It's an output..) If dead, It most likely go to the solenoid (It's an input)


I Also don't see a wire marked "S" for solenoid energize..You'll need that for Cranking in "Start" only mode..look for that wire..


REMEMBER: These are **Guestimates** Verify with a DMM to be sure AND TEST with a proper fused supply..It's REALLY hard to diagnose over the internet 2 nd party.....you are looking at it..we aren't..so VERIFY first..
If the harness make has a service or tech line or website, the BEST thing to do is Call there or drop them an EMAIL..

Another EASY way to figure it all out, Is go to a Bone yard and PULL the harness assembly out of a stock General Misery Column and mark the termination points, So your harness end will just plug straight into the harness and the other end is marked as you pulled it out..

Let us know!

Doc
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Last edited by docvette; 10-13-2005 at 05:04 PM. Reason: added info
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Old 10-13-2005, 06:13 PM
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Thanks doc, my friend has alot of old camaro parts and hopefully an old column. If he does, like you said, that should straighten things out. Looks like I have my work cut out for me this weekend!!
I'll write back in a couple days with updates
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Old 10-16-2005, 03:34 PM
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Using the gm switch worked great! I got one off a 76 camaro column and everything is going good!
I am still not sure about the alternator exciter wire. The harness was made for a one wire alt. so I assume I would run one wire from the post on the alt to the battery. The alt also has a rubber plug blocking off two connectors labaled 1 and 2. Does the exciter wire plug into one of those?
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Old 10-16-2005, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blob
Using the gm switch worked great! I got one off a 76 camaro column and everything is going good!
I am still not sure about the alternator exciter wire. The harness was made for a one wire alt. so I assume I would run one wire from the post on the alt to the battery. The alt also has a rubber plug blocking off two connectors labaled 1 and 2. Does the exciter wire plug into one of those?
Doc here,

Not being able to see the alternator, Does that plug Jump between 1 and 2 electrically?

If so, It's a self Exciter..no other wiring is required...

If not find the exciter wire and wire that to ANY SWITCHED 12 volt source..(direct VCC will run your battery down just sitting) and you should be all good!

Doc
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Old 10-17-2005, 05:03 PM
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the plug is like a heavy rubber thing thats molded like it is a jumper, but all out of rubber. Seems like its there to block it off. I got it from summitracing, its a 100Amp one wire.
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Old 10-17-2005, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blob
the plug is like a heavy rubber thing thats molded like it is a jumper, but all out of rubber. Seems like its there to block it off. I got it from summitracing, its a 100Amp one wire.

Doc here,

If you bought it as a one wire, than that is what you have..you can check that plug by pulling it and measuring across it with an ohm meter at R x 1, If it reads 000 on a DMM , It's a self exciter...

In either case, all you need do is run the large red wire to a proper fuse link, And hook it to VCC or 12 volts..and it's good to go!

Doc
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Old 10-18-2005, 07:51 AM
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thanks doc!!, ohm meter reads 0, so its a self exciter.
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