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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2012, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slingshot60
Sooo... use my '96 Roadmaster brakes and fit them with Camaro 1LE rotors?
Tes You will have to add spacers behind the upper control arm mounts to correct the camber, 3/8" usually works, but other than that it just bolts together. The reason for the spacer is the Roadmaster spindle is taller, so the angle of the upper control arm changes enough to put too much camber in the system. This spindle also changes the roll center for the better. You have to use the Roadmaster inner bearing and seal with the Camaro outer bearing. The Aimco part number for the rotor is 55008
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Old 02-05-2012, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enjenjo
Tes You will have to add spacers behind the upper control arm mounts to correct the camber, 3/8" usually works, but other than that it just bolts together. The reason for the spacer is the Roadmaster spindle is taller, so the angle of the upper control arm changes enough to put too much camber in the system. This spindle also changes the roll center for the better. You have to use the Roadmaster inner bearing and seal with the Camaro outer bearing. The Aimco part number for the rotor is 55008
Cool! Thanks! I love this board already...
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:17 AM
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My only concern here is that the Willys pickup is NARROW compared to an S-10. A local guy narrowed a Toyota truck frame by 2-3" to put an Anglia body on (shortened the frame also) and it didn't mess up steering geometry though, so you shouldn't have a problem either. you've already got the S-10 frame, but I'd think a Ranger frame would have been better -- straighter than the S-10 and a bit narrower.
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:53 AM
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i disagree with using a ranger chassis instead, they have horrible suspension geometry and components that are hard to work with.
good choice on the s10 frame, there is a ton of aftermarket support, everything from CAs, v8 motor mounts, link set up for the rear

before you invest in a spindle swap I would decide on a ride height first, drop spindles ride WAY better than drop springs and worth the extra $ imo
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:57 AM
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Well my first build I went s-10 longbed frame on a 51' AD truck. I have since then gathered two more frames and I have two original frames. I plan on doing all of them at some point. I'd say the s-10 frame is stronger and cheaper to do, and in the long run easy, cheap and the ride is great. With IFS if you don't have proper welder or welding skills, add more money to the IMHO an overpriced set up. I will say, I'd rather do full frame swap or an aftermarket IFS, I'm not too into the front clippings.

But my next truck I'm keeping the straight axle and straight 6, going with a more tradition build. So the options are endless out there. Try em all, but I
am voting s-10 for your first build or for an economical build.

People have also done malibu frames and dodge dakota swaps.
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowrider16
i disagree with using a ranger chassis instead, they have horrible suspension geometry and components that are hard to work with.
good choice on the s10 frame, there is a ton of aftermarket support, everything from CAs, v8 motor mounts, link set up for the rear

before you invest in a spindle swap I would decide on a ride height first, drop spindles ride WAY better than drop springs and worth the extra $ imo
sorry, I'd at least get the b body spindles first and install..
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whyholdback
How is this even a question? The S-10 has amazing aftermarket support, V8-swaps into them are common, you can get parts / service anywhere, easy to get an S-10 to pull 1g cornering, cost is 10% of the Heidt's-type stuff, big brakes can be done with G-body parts, which has all the advantages just listed, while a Heidt's-style only has the advantage of looking pretty IF it is fully exposed for all the world to see.
I have an s-10[narrowed} to stock width of my 49 ford convert.....personally a man is , if he goes with the mustang front ends, you have to remember an s-10 is a truck for work! A mustang front was designed for a small sporty car in the 70s .i do mean small [no weight] I did a black 50 ford cpe with a s-10 many years ago. my wife and i drove it up on lake superior twice and never had a spec of trouble cruised at 70mph.So i've had two with no problems of cracking anywhere I am thinking about doing an s-10 55 chevy i have, should work great jmo bob s typos are free!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2012, 08:42 AM
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SLINGSHOT: I have a 1933 Plymouth 4dr sedan that we acquired this past summer that has an S-10 front grafted onto a 2 X 4 tube drag frame with ladder bar/ Ford 9" suspension. It has the lowered spindles up front . disc all the way around and until I channeled the front this winter, i thought that it sat fairly high. Point being, although I am still wringing it out, it rides nice (could be a bit softer up front), and I was surprised at how stable it is around curves and at Interstate highway speeds. We drove it to several shows, etc, last summer before starting any work on it and it was easily manageable even for the wife to drive (did have to tell her to get it straight BEFORE nailing it!). With huge meats in the back and the drag suspension, it nonetheless is fun to drive. You should enjoy your choice a lot! Bob
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:08 AM
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Ifs ??

Build it on paper for final cost then add 10%.
Let your wallet be your guide.
Jim, School of Hot Rod Hard Knocks, 1957
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmothershead
Build it on paper for final cost then add 10%.
Let your wallet be your guide.
Jim, School of Hot Rod Hard Knocks, 1957
10% I think what I read in Rod Action back in the seventies was more accurate.

"You figure out what it is going to cost you to build your car, you then double that, then triple that! You will still be wrong but not nearly as wrong as if you went with your first estimate".

Brian
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2012, 09:28 AM
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Aftermarket IFS vs S10 chassis

I grafted a '99 S10 front clip to my '46 Ford frame and also used the dual leaf springs onto the '46 frame. So far, I am very satisfied. I paid $200 for the rolling frame. I have a S10 V8 conversion kit that I did not use because it made the motor sit too high. I made my own motor mounts.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2012, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
My hatred of frame swaps is well know here, but I have to say, THIS one I would think about. What you need to do is see how similar the Willy's frame is in shape over the rear end, that sort of thing. I think it is pretty similar and the body is pretty forgiving, for instance not having a swoopy floor that matched the shape of the stock frame.

My brother had one of those Willys and at the time I frequented a Willys forum that had a lot of stuff like this going on, I don't remember the name of the forum but if you do some homework you should be able to find out how this swap would work out.

As I started with I LOATH frame swaps as most don't turn out well and look like a placenta in my opinion. But this one has some merits and doing some home work should sort that all out.

As far as the original frame goes, people have been putting much bigger motors in Model A's and with some work it is a doer without so much as a thought on the subject. Building a frame from scratch would also be an idea, again do to what I remember as being a pretty straight forward frame design of the original. There are some threads on hotrodders about building a frame from scratch and it isn't as hard as you think.

Brian
X2. If the S-10 can be swapped in with minimal effort then go for it but check it out closely. Personally if it was me I would box my frame get a good quality IFS kit and then swap in your desired rear axle.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:58 AM
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Just thinking here,
Why change out the front brakes? Are they not up to the task?
And why change out the rear end? Ford 8.8? Is the rear on a S10 not an 8.5
10 bolt? Those are plenty strong.

I'd run the S10 frame as is unless there is a real reason to change. KISS.
Not saying any of those ideas are bad. Just food for thought.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2012, 12:19 PM
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I should have been more specific -- I meant a 98+ Ranger frame, not pre 98. Pre 98 used the "Twin-I-Beam" suspension and wouldn't be good for rod, with some exceptions (it's been used for traditional appearing rods in place of a solid axle). 98+ uses a suspension similar to the S-10. I suppose most cheap donors would be pre 98 though, and that makes the S-10 much more attractive cost-wise.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:27 PM
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if cost is a big factor in a build your in the wrong hobby ....
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