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DEATHTRAP 01-14-2013 04:59 PM

Ahooga Horn with Led Momemtary Button Control
2 Attachment(s)
Hey all.

I'm wanting to put a novelty Ahooga Horn into my Rig and use it with a LED Momentary Button.
I'm Very Green when it comes to wiring things, so I thought I would pop in over here and see if I could get some help on how to do it properly.
At this point, I'm not sure what I'll I even need to do the job.
Some people say to use a relay, others have told me NOT to worry about a relay and to just use inline fuses.

Let me explain how I want it to work, and we'll go from there:
I wanted the LED to come on (and Stay On) anytime my key is turned.
Then of course for the horn to work whenever the button is pushed, whether the vehicle is on or off.

The type of horn I will be using is a Wolo 330,
which has positive and negative leads of course.
Here is a picture of the Momentary Button that I will be using and the specs:
Attachment 70603
Attachment 70604
1 NO 1NC

My original idea was to get the LED power from the in-cab fuse box.
I currently had an "add a circuit" plugged into it that I'm using for power to another mod. That set-up works fine with the turn of the ignition key, so I just figure go ahead and tap that line for the hot, and ground the switch separately. Don't know if that's a good idea or not.

Any help would be great.
Just looking for the easiest and most straight forward way that is safe.

Joe G 01-14-2013 06:55 PM

Hey, welcome to Hotrodders Bulletin Board. :welcome:

Any idea how many amps the Ahooga Horn draws?

If it's more than the switch is rated for, then it would be best to use a relay or a beefier switch.

Hope this helps...:thumbup:

DEATHTRAP 01-14-2013 07:17 PM

I'm not sure, the package hasn't arrived yet.
I talked to 2 different guys at the mfg.
1 said 3amps, the other said 9amps.
Both are under the 10amp switch, but I'm obviously not going to get any help from those guys if they can't even give me a definitive answer on the amps.

EOD Guy 01-14-2013 07:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is how I'd wire it. I have used those switches before and they won't carry many amps for very long, before they start getting hot and make the housing get soft from the heat then they fail, the contacts will take the current but not the housing. I like to use the gorund leg of the relay to function it..... This is a bosch type relay avail at any auto store or junkyard

DEATHTRAP 01-14-2013 07:37 PM

So if it's wired with the relay as shown in that picture,
will the switch last...?
Or still end up failing?

EOD Guy 01-14-2013 07:39 PM

I have four of these controlling the fwd and rear cameras on my truck...... I use telephone wire soldered to the small contacts, then strip the phone wire and wrap it around a larger gage wire, solder that, then slide a piece of shrink wrap over the entire thing..... works well. three years now on mine wired that way with no failures...... the first go around burnt two switches...

When you solder the contacts be quick..... the iron will melt the contacts out of the housing...... don't ask how I know

DEATHTRAP 01-14-2013 07:43 PM

Regular 18-16g didn't work?

EOD Guy 01-14-2013 07:49 PM

I found it hard to get it through the small hole..... if you can get it through it'll work fine....... The switches I bought had very small holes.

EOD Guy 01-14-2013 07:57 PM

Here is a source for some Stainless Steel momentary mini switches, they are about the size of a pencil eraser. I really like them and have used them on many mods, they hide very well...... My latest mod on my 67 Camaro.... the window cranks are the power window switches etc..... I put a mini switch on the side of the dash, with a series of relays, so that when you press the mini switch, the drivers side window crank controls the passenger window.... completely hidden and looks completely stock. I put another mini switch just above the window switch that unlocks the doors.

Harley Mini Push Button Momentary Switch s Steel for Custom Applications | eBay

DEATHTRAP 01-14-2013 08:01 PM

Oh, I was just going to use those little connectors.

Thanks for the diagram, that helps alot.
I've never had to put in a relay.
So I should be able to tap into my existing aux line for power to the leds without having to worry about a fuse it looks like? And I'll just have to use an inline fuse from the relay to the battery? Does that sound right?

DEATHTRAP 01-14-2013 08:06 PM

What kind of Relay to I need to buy?
And how do you properly tie in the 86 and 87 pin on the relay to go to power, and the NO and Ground pins on the switch?
Are you just twisting the wires together or is there a better way to do it?

EOD Guy 01-14-2013 08:07 PM

It's always good to fuse all circuits, if your Aux source has a fuse you'll be fine not using an another fuse, those LEDs draw a tiny amount of juice and probably will smoke long before the fuse blows.

DEATHTRAP 01-14-2013 08:11 PM

What kind of Relay to I need to buy?And how do you properly tie in the 86 and 87 pin on the relay to go to power, and the NO and Ground pins on the switch?Are you just twisting the wires together or is there a better way to do it?

EOD Guy 01-14-2013 08:15 PM

It's called a bosch type relay, avail in just about every auto parts store, Radio Shack or....... I get mine from junked cars .... your looking for the five pins. On the side of most relays you will see the dia of what terminals are what....

To make the connections to the relay, you can buy a socket, I use female spade connectors, to tie the hots together, I use a spade connector, a short run of wire from both terminals into one end of a butt splice, the other end of the butt splice goes to the hot etc....

on the switch, just twist, then solder, them together and cover with heat shrink.

DEATHTRAP 01-14-2013 08:27 PM

I didn't know I could buy a socket for the relay either.
Hey Thanks alot for all the info EOD Guy !
It's very much appreciated.
You've really simplified something that may have aggravated the Piss out of me.
Hopefully all will go well.

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