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Old 03-14-2005, 07:12 PM
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Aibrush for really thick stuf?

Anyone out there had any experience with airbrushing, or any spray method with lots of control, for really viscous liquids. I need to spray very thin films of coating that has very high solids content. I also need to be able to spray a narrow, like 1/2 inch lines. The nearest thing I can compare this stuf to is latex house paint.
Thanks in advance.

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Old 03-14-2005, 07:35 PM
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NO, You have to thin regular base coat paint 50-150% for ANY shooting.
Something with the consistancy of latex house paint will require a large tip.
What exactly are you using?
Don't get me wrong, you can air brush anything,
It is possiable as long as you reduce it to a sprayable consistancy but will this screw the product up
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:05 AM
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What I'm spraying is a dry film lubricant. It's an epoxy matrix with solids as the lubricant. The manufacturer recommends 20% reduction. That's not much reduction, but I suspect that any more will result in too much separation of the carrier and the solids. I've used a Binks Wren with some success, but it tends to spit, probably because it's a siphon feed, and tries to clog the fluid tip. I've just received a Badger 360 that can be used as a gravity feed. Haven't tried it yet, but hope the gravity feed will help the "spit". It's also a double action internal mix with a double taper needle. I hope all of this works better. I just wondered if anyone has had any similar experience.
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:12 AM
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This brings up a question I've had for a long time.
How do these airbrush guys paint graphics on cars with
the coverage they get in one coat. When I thin my basecoat
paint enough for an airbrush I have to go over my work a
couple of times to get the paint to cover.
I've seen others get a dark fine line with one pass,
are they using some paint I don't know about or am I missing
something (as usual)? I need a paint I can urethane over.
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Old 03-15-2005, 08:02 PM
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The spitting is from not reducing it enough. Same problem we have with white,It has the most pigment (solids) of any color and is a real problem getting just the right ratio to spray right. Same thing with silver as the metalics tend to clog the tip.

If you could mask the area off and hit it with a wide open shot might work.

jcclark, The QUALITY of paint is a BIG factor,The better base's have alot more pigment which give's better coverage.That and the fact that the painter is GOOD dosen't hurt either.
Most prefer HOK, Which has the best black base period. Excellent coverage even at a 100% reduction.
There are some VERRRRRRRY talented artist's out there who do amazing work, who I prefer not to look at.'Cause I just want to go dump my stuff in a pile and burn it.
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Old 03-15-2005, 08:18 PM
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best airbrush i can think of for thick fluids is a pasche VL with a #5 needle. its the biggest i can think of and if an airbrush is going to work for you at all then that would be it. alot of the t-shirt artists use it with the #3 because the fabric paints anr thicker. the #5 is really big so i would go with that.

as for airbrushing and the paint. it almost never covers in one pass. airbrush work amounts to nothing but layering and shading. usually basecoat is thinned out so much that it is made quite transparent so the more passes you go over the darker it gets. this is why most airbrushing is done with candys.
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:02 PM
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I haven't airbrushed in years. When I did I used Lacquer with a urethane clear coat. Old school I know but that's how we did it 25 years ago. Usta' shoot murals on Winnebago conversion vans back in the 70's and ran my own shop a few years after that. I imagine things have changed a bunch since then.
mrcleanr6 is right, airbrushing is just a matter of laying down shades (Layers ) of color. I remember Chevy van Brown met. was a great one for shading. It would go from almost yellow to almost black just by shading. Each pass would dry almost on contact so it was a quick process. I always used the pasche VL. Still have one as a mater of fact. Still works last time I checked. I always kept a clean bottle of thinner to blow through the airbrush from time to time to keep it from cloggin up. Back flush it once in a while by putting my finger on and off the tip while pullin' the trigger. The pasche is a purdy' tough airbrush.
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Old 03-16-2005, 07:35 AM
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The basic rule of thumb is you can shoot any paint thru an airbrush as long as it has the consistancy of 2% milk. I use the Auto Air paint system which is a water based paint and it is recommended that you use it in thin layers and heat set in between. The auto uros are different tho. You can usually get proper coverage of whatever you are painting, with 1 coat. Sometime a second one will be require for that extra depth of the color. I have been airbrushing for 6 months now and have learned a ton of stuff along the way. But the rule I posted at the top seems to be the general rule of thumb to follow. Oh and make sure you clean your gun out when finished. Sound slike that stuff could gum it up pretty bad
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Old 03-16-2005, 07:42 PM
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I recently did some tests with my Badger 360. The paint would come out in fine strands, almost like spider web material followed by a more solid paint. I cleaned the brush by completely disassembling it a few times thinking it was the brush. I also tried suction versus gravity feed and there was no change. I determined two things: paint not thinned enough (PPG laquer - Ford Performance White) and I was using a "cheap" thinner. I thinned per the paint shops recommendation and I switched to a PPG thinner. Everything started working like a champ. I believe my airbrush was getting clogged because the material was not thinned enough. Something to think about.
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:55 PM
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Thanks to all. I'm going to try it with a Badger 360 ('cause that's what I've got) and post the results next week.
Grogetter.
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