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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2010, 04:15 PM
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I just bought this Belair 7.5 hp..http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-318VLE.html

I did talk first hand with belair on the phone..And was told they build the US General.. And they are almost the same compressor ,,The only difference in the two is the compressor pump it self..I was also told the better one was the belair..My close friend Speedydeedy a member here bought his belair 15 years ago and never had a problem with his yet.. I have used his more then once,,And I can say it is a work horse..Not noisy,And it don't run much at all..The two compresses have the same Baldor motors on them..I will be receiving mine the middle of next week..Can't wait.. I had a pro charge I worked the he** out of for 15 years.. And the motor was the only thing that went out..It said on the tank 6hp But the amps were only 15 amps. So we know what that means..It was about 3hp.. But I can say I got my money out of it..Plus some..All I can say is the belair is one very good compressor for the money..

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Old 07-22-2010, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by wyomingclimber

One of the reviewers of that unit says it comes with an AO Smith motor and not the one pictured.

Is that a decent unit?

I talked to a couple of other guys who said they also looked at those compressors with AO Smith motors and since I have seen at least two different ones in the store with Baldor motors I am thinking they must come both ways. Personally I prefer Baldor but AO Smith is a good quality motor and there is nothing at all wrong with buying a compressor that has one, JMO but then my ideal choice of compressors would be a Quincy with a Baldor motor!
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2010, 11:51 PM
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For what it's worth I bought this compressor from Lowe's back in 2003 . It has served me well . I have used it for everything blasting , painting , striping cars and it keeps on going. It is just a 2cyl/60gal tank and has AO Smith motor suppose to be rated at 7hp but more like 5 hp 100% duty cycle. The one compressor I would stay away from is a Kobalt I have heard bad things about them . .
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Old 07-24-2010, 09:28 PM
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no one will argue that the quincy and belairs aren't great compressors, but last I checked they were fairly expensive also.

Ranchero, that's when they still used good parts in them... the new ones are not as good...
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Old 07-24-2010, 11:18 PM
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As we all know anything mechanical can take the proverbial chit now and then. I have the aformentioned Kobalt...60 gal, 3.5 "running hp" as opposed to when it's "not running" it has 0 (???)... or whatever that is supposed to mean. It puts out 13.3 cfm @ 90 psi and 17.5 @ 40 psi. The motor is a Centry/A.O. Smith 220v. The tank is made by Manchester Tank and as far as I know they are still made here in the USA.

I do strictly my own home garage stuff like most of us and really didn't need a big comercial type rig, nor did I need the expense. I use a D/A sander, die grinder, impact wrench, media blaster etc.....Might not be the best parts but so far this compressor has worked flawlessly for the past 4 yrs....and I got it on sale with an additonal 10% off = $379 The best part was that I sold my Craftsman 30 gal upright oiless "hearing loss special" for $200. I'm happy!!
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Old 07-25-2010, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 327NUT
3.5 "running hp" as opposed to when it's "not running" it has 0 (???)... or whatever that is supposed to mean.

3.5 "running" as opposed to "starting" HP which can be quite high for a second or so. When a compressor starts up the AMP draw will be a great deal more than it will be while it is running due to having to overcome the resistance to getting everything spinning so the manufacturers starting listing that momentary start-up power as the actual HP of the motor and most times even exaggerated that!
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Old 07-25-2010, 10:39 AM
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My first advice to the original poster would be to follow Old Red's advice!

He impresses me as being our "resident expert" here, and knows of what he speaks!

I've got an Eagle 5HP 18.5 CFM compressor witha 60-gal tank. It will keep up with a 20-gallon pressurized sandblasting unit which has been adequate for a lot of the smaller jobs that I have used it for. If you're going to be sandblasting an entire frame ... you might want to consider renting an industrial unit or hiring a pro to do it for you.

I've also had huge success at providing dry air to a sandblaster using a "cooling tower" that I built myself ... copying a design that was posted by another member here at HR.

This copper cooling tower has ball valves at the bottom of each of the 4 legs that allow any accumulated moisture to be blown off either daily or before and after each sandblasting session. Clean dry air is essential for a sandblaster, and also extends the life of any power tool.

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