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Old 04-22-2011, 07:02 AM
Jim Rockford's Avatar
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also the tank to do try and let the air cool so you can draw the moisture out of the air, You wouldn't want to run a paint gun or a D/A right off the pump the air is pretty hot, I know on the secondary side of my old pump its about 200 degrees, but even with continuous use the air is almost room temp coming out of the regulator. and I have a 60 gallon horizontal tank, that draws right out of the top of the tank. so It makes a difference in cooling, If I had a 12 gallon tank with my pump It wouldn't bee nearly as cool and would have a ton of moisture it but Yes, always buy on CFM totally ignore the HP rating in bit Numbers on the label... also always go with the @90PSI if it has two cause that is what 90 % of all air tools run at. 140PSI really has no use on you as a homeowner.

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Old 04-22-2011, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Rockford
al also always go with the @90PSI if it has two cause that is what 90 % of all air tools run at. 140PSI really has no use on you as a homeowner.

This brings something else into the 60 vs 80 gallon equation that I have avoided because it is already confusing enough and besides the only way to make a meaningful comparison between two different tank sizes is if all else is equal, change the CFM input or pump type and there can be no real comparisons. A two stage 60 gallon tank compressor with 175 PSI is going to have a lot more air stored in it than a 60 gallon tank with only 125 PSI having the same effect as a bigger tank. This is all beside the point anyway but it is just another reason why looking at the size of the tank is useless unless it is a special use compressor with an extreme tank volume one way or the other. An example of that was our most popular rig when building service trucks, a 32 CFM compressor with a 30 gallon tank. The small tank was used to save valuable space and the operator depended on CFM to make the thing useful.
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