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-   -   Air compressor plumbing with pictures (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/air-compressor-plumbing-pictures-85142.html)

fatboy95 03-23-2006 08:10 PM

Air compressor plumbing with pictures
 
5 Attachment(s)
I know there are a lot of questions asked about this but I have been struggling with the correct way of doing this. I don't want to have to spend any more money on this project than I have to. So, I need to do it correctly the first time. After reading here and a couple of other forums I drew some pictures of the ideas in my head. If you don't mind take a look and let me know which ideas seem to be the best. I sure would like to move my compressor out to my shed so I don't have to hear the noise while working. Thanks.

oldred 03-23-2006 09:15 PM

I hope I don't get the numbers confused,-Shed idea 1 is ok because the drop you are showing in idea 2 will not do anything since at that point the air is still hot so the water is in vapor form and little if any will collect there.

Garage idea 1 is ok IF you bring the air in about 6" from the bottom with the take-off air near the top. Garage idea 2 is really good because by the time the air reaches that point it will have cooled and the vapor will have condensed and will be collected in the tank where it will drain, just be sure the tank is at the lowest point and the air coming in is about 6"-8" from the bottom and the outlet is at the top. If you combine garage ideas 1 and 2 (with the modifications mentioned) along with a standard water trap/regulator I think you will not have any water problems at all :)

Shed idea 1 or 2 combined with garage idea 3 would be a disaster :nono:

Tipsforplumber 07-04-2012 09:02 PM

plumber brea
 
I;am no pro. In my shop I ran 2 lines out of the comp. up to the main with a trap on the bottom. the reason for the 2 lines is to slow air down, so the water gos to the trap. this seem to work pretty good. I have sandblasted and run my air tools with no water. If you like I can try and post some pix tomarrow. Oh.if you mount your air comp. to the floor DO NOT TIGHTEN ALL (4) BOLTS. this can cause the tank or motor bracket welds to brake. Leave 1 lose/snuge ,even if you have it mounted on rubber. The vibration needs to go somewhere. Good luck daye

plumber brea

66GMC 07-04-2012 10:39 PM

Sorry, but I am not a fan of any plan that includes burying copper pipe in a shallow trench. (Damp + copper = green nightmare.)

Shed:
I would be much more in favor of tee-ing the pipe at the level of the tank outlet, and going UP with the the supply line to height of say 8 ft where it would exit the shed and travel to the garage. I would install a drop on the other end of of the tee inside the shed, along with a drain valve near the floor.

Garage:
I don't know what your run length from the shed to garage might be, but I'd suggest that it should have a slight slope to it as water vapor is sure to condense in the outside air ... especially in winter ... and you don't want ice to form in that section.

After the air has entered the garage, you will want to install another tee, and another drop to shed any moisture. You may even want to manufacture a cooling tower like mine (see my journal) and a filter.

My plan from there includes a horizontal supply path to each "work-station", then a vertical drop and drain on every work station. Each outlet is teed with short horizontal tees for for a female coupler, with a drop and drain valve down below it.

The theory is that it should be nearly impossible for accumulated condensate (H20 liquid) to ever make it to any outlet that I attach a hose to.

Best of luck!:thumbup:

66GMC 07-04-2012 11:21 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's a drawing to support my suggested "plan".
Everyone please feel free to comment.

JohnnyK81 07-05-2012 06:47 AM

I recommend using Shed 2 drop in addition to your other ones.. I have about 3 feet of 3/4" hose coming off my compressor, directly to a drop like the one in your shed #2.. It collects the most water actually (surprisingly). The drop climbs about 3 more feet before it starts going somewhere.


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