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Air compressor shop lines

6K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  Old Fool 
#1 ·
I know this has been covered up and down before but I have a question that I can’t find the answer to. I have a Quincy Compressor Air Compressor — 5 HP, 230 Volt Single Phase, Model# 2V41C60VC | 19 CFM and I want to run about 50’ of copper air lines throughout my shop. My question is should I run ½ lines or ¾? I had a graph showing what size for what length run, cfm, psi, etc but I can’t find it.

Anyway the reason I’m wondering if I should run ½ instead of ¾ is that the outlet on my compressor is only ½, will this restrict me enough to make it pointless to run ¾ for the rest of the system? I plan on running a media blast cabinet, DA, sander, paint gun, etc. I have 50’ of ½ copper laying around right now but I would have no problem buying ¾ if it will make the difference.
 
#4 ·
If you are going to use iron pipe, be sure to use galvanized pipe. At a former employer, they installed a new air system, all of it in black iron pipe. Inside of about 6 months, the inside of the pipe was already rusting and generating lots of rust that clogged the insides of air tools, etc.
 
#7 ·
Lots of suggestions for black pipe, what if the cost was the same or a little less for the 3/4 copper? I was under the impression that copper transferred the heat just as well as iron pipe to deal with condensation? As for people stealing it, I'm not too worried about that, I have things in my shop that would be worth much more to someone that they could get out faster and more easily; also I have security in place to prevent that sort of thing.. Hopefully :rolleyes:
 
#9 ·
how many tools ?

Size would depend on how many tools will be running at once, If you do it your self labor cost wouldn't matter. I took over as facilities manager at a factory and they had 1/2 copper main lines and the first day I could hear the air screwdrivers slow down when 3 or 4 people were working the same time. I always over size , conduit and plumbing systems, cooling water, Air, etc. you need some reserve capacity, If you have to rent a power threader , or make changes later copper is easier,
 
#11 ·
Copper would be cheaper for me based on current prices at my local lowes, $.26 cheaper per 10' length. I also have a plumber friend who is going to give me fittings he has laying around from old jobs. Another pricing issue with black pipe is that a 6' pipe costs $1.95 more than a 10' pipe, I'm not too sure how much rental cost of a pipe threader is.. I could have lowes cut down 10' pipes to exactly what I need but the convenience of being able to easily cut copper to length on site is a plus.
 
#13 ·
There are actually 3 types of copper, and even the lowest grade (Type M) has a working pressure of 326 PSI @ 250F, even if that was the stuff I was going to use it would work. The question was never the rating, durability or strength of the copper but the heat transfer comparison to black iron pipe. My original intent was to use black iron; however after talking with a friend of mine about what he has plumbed shops around here locally with and pricing out the final system with copper being the less expensive solution, I chose copper.
 
#15 ·
forgetting one thing..

it really makes no sense to run a larger line then the fitting on the compressor is. if u look for more storage of air then a lg line is ok.. IF u want flow... then make sure the fitting from the compressor is the largest it will take. the smallest part of that line is an "orfice" and u can not flow more air then that part will allow. and thats the ID of any part on that line.
 
#17 ·
it really makes no sense to run a larger line then the fitting on the compressor is. if u look for more storage of air then a lg line is ok.. IF u want flow... then make sure the fitting from the compressor is the largest it will take. the smallest part of that line is an "orfice" and u can not flow more air then that part will allow. and thats the ID of any part on that line.
my outlet at tank is 1"
and I'm running 1" all the way to the outlets for the hose..
the dryer is only on one outlet, for painting..
water seperating filters at the other 3 ..
 
#18 ·
I would be very surprised if a compressor with that capacity had only a 1/2" outlet. The pic appears to have a reducer bushing in a much larger bung. Looks like a nice compressor. I have the IR match to it. It runs most of the time to keep up with my blast cabinet and runs full time with my pressure pot.

The copper will transfer heat faster than pipe. I have 50' of black iron threaded across my ceiling for cooling with 3 drops to drain off water. I had read the galvanized coating was thin inside the pipe and people had problems with it flaking off and clogging fittings so I used the black. It's been in there 8 years and no rust issues...:cool:

If the drain valve is still under the tank, buy a street elbow and run it out to daylight. MUCH easier to turn the handle out where you can get at it.
 
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