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-   -   Air compressor shop lines (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/air-compressor-shop-lines-225318.html)

K72Nova 10-23-2012 02:46 PM

Air compressor shop lines
 
I know this has been covered up and down before but I have a question that I cant find the answer to. I have a Quincy Compressor Air Compressor 5 HP, 230 Volt Single Phase, Model# 2V41C60VC | 19 CFM and I want to run about 50 of copper air lines throughout my shop. My question is should I run lines or ? I had a graph showing what size for what length run, cfm, psi, etc but I cant find it.

Anyway the reason Im wondering if I should run instead of is that the outlet on my compressor is only , will this restrict me enough to make it pointless to run for the rest of the system? I plan on running a media blast cabinet, DA, sander, paint gun, etc. I have 50 of copper laying around right now but I would have no problem buying if it will make the difference.

joe_padavano 10-23-2012 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K72Nova (Post 1602372)
I know this has been covered up and down before but I have a question that I cant find the answer to. I have a Quincy Compressor Air Compressor 5 HP, 230 Volt Single Phase, Model# 2V41C60VC | 19 CFM and I want to run about 50 of copper air lines throughout my shop. My question is should I run lines or ? I had a graph showing what size for what length run, cfm, psi, etc but I cant find it.

Anyway the reason Im wondering if I should run instead of is that the outlet on my compressor is only , will this restrict me enough to make it pointless to run for the rest of the system? I plan on running a media blast cabinet, DA, sander, paint gun, etc. I have 50 of copper laying around right now but I would have no problem buying if it will make the difference.

Buy the 3/4" - but get iron pipe, not copper. Not only is there a cost difference, but the iron pipe will cool the compressed air and condense out any moisture.

E.Furgal 10-23-2012 03:27 PM

x2
plus , thugs don't steal iron pipe..

rdupree 10-23-2012 05:24 PM

If you are going to use iron pipe, be sure to use galvanized pipe. At a former employer, they installed a new air system, all of it in black iron pipe. Inside of about 6 months, the inside of the pipe was already rusting and generating lots of rust that clogged the insides of air tools, etc.

E.Furgal 10-23-2012 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdupree (Post 1602435)
If you are going to use iron pipe, be sure to use galvanized pipe. At a former employer, they installed a new air system, all of it in black iron pipe. Inside of about 6 months, the inside of the pipe was already rusting and generating lots of rust that clogged the insides of air tools, etc.

?????????????????????
water filter/drier and a filter.. no rust at all.. installed in 2000 and the inside of pipe is still clean..

no-scar-no-story 10-23-2012 07:05 PM

dry air is a must no matter your choice of line, but iron is the way to go. 3/4 will get you better air volume.

K72Nova 10-23-2012 07:13 PM

Lots of suggestions for black pipe, what if the cost was the same or a little less for the 3/4 copper? I was under the impression that copper transferred the heat just as well as iron pipe to deal with condensation? As for people stealing it, I'm not too worried about that, I have things in my shop that would be worth much more to someone that they could get out faster and more easily; also I have security in place to prevent that sort of thing.. Hopefully :rolleyes:

no-scar-no-story 10-23-2012 07:14 PM

Another choice is aluminum. The fittings are a little expensive, but for ease of installation and corrosion resistance, it can't be beat. Transair is the brand I used in a couple of commercial buildings.

timothale 10-23-2012 07:26 PM

how many tools ?
 
Size would depend on how many tools will be running at once, If you do it your self labor cost wouldn't matter. I took over as facilities manager at a factory and they had 1/2 copper main lines and the first day I could hear the air screwdrivers slow down when 3 or 4 people were working the same time. I always over size , conduit and plumbing systems, cooling water, Air, etc. you need some reserve capacity, If you have to rent a power threader , or make changes later copper is easier,

E.Furgal 10-23-2012 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K72Nova (Post 1602478)
Lots of suggestions for black pipe, what if the cost was the same or a little less for the 3/4 copper? I was under the impression that copper transferred the heat just as well as iron pipe to deal with condensation? As for people stealing it, I'm not too worried about that, I have things in my shop that would be worth much more to someone that they could get out faster and more easily; also I have security in place to prevent that sort of thing.. Hopefully :rolleyes:

you haven't priced copper in a while..
the roll of romex I bought 5 years ago was 39.00
the other day it was 119.oo for the same roll of copper..

K72Nova 10-23-2012 09:58 PM

Copper would be cheaper for me based on current prices at my local lowes, $.26 cheaper per 10' length. I also have a plumber friend who is going to give me fittings he has laying around from old jobs. Another pricing issue with black pipe is that a 6' pipe costs $1.95 more than a 10' pipe, I'm not too sure how much rental cost of a pipe threader is.. I could have lowes cut down 10' pipes to exactly what I need but the convenience of being able to easily cut copper to length on site is a plus.

E.Furgal 10-23-2012 10:02 PM

price it again. there are 2 types of copper pipe..
tell them you are running 150psi in it..
not 10psi cold water

K72Nova 10-24-2012 06:57 AM

There are actually 3 types of copper, and even the lowest grade (Type M) has a working pressure of 326 PSI @ 250F, even if that was the stuff I was going to use it would work. The question was never the rating, durability or strength of the copper but the heat transfer comparison to black iron pipe. My original intent was to use black iron; however after talking with a friend of mine about what he has plumbed shops around here locally with and pricing out the final system with copper being the less expensive solution, I chose copper.

E.Furgal 10-24-2012 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K72Nova (Post 1602605)
There are actually 3 types of copper, and even the lowest grade (Type M) has a working pressure of 326 PSI @ 250F, even if that was the stuff I was going to use it would work. The question was never the rating, durability or strength of the copper but the heat transfer comparison to black iron pipe. My original intent was to use black iron; however after talking with a friend of mine about what he has plumbed shops around here locally with and pricing out the final system with copper being the less expensive solution, I chose copper.

good luck..

delawarebill 10-24-2012 07:38 AM

forgetting one thing..
 
it really makes no sense to run a larger line then the fitting on the compressor is. if u look for more storage of air then a lg line is ok.. IF u want flow... then make sure the fitting from the compressor is the largest it will take. the smallest part of that line is an "orfice" and u can not flow more air then that part will allow. and thats the ID of any part on that line.


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