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View Poll Results: What kind of Air Compressor do you have?
Oil-less less than 10 gal 6 2.14%
Oil-less 10-20 gal 17 6.07%
Oil-less over 30 gal 41 14.64%
Oiled less than 10 gal 5 1.79%
Oiled 10-20 gal 23 8.21%
Oiled 30-50 gal 39 13.93%
Oiled over 50 gal 144 51.43%
don't know 5 1.79%
Voters: 280. You may not vote on this poll

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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2004, 12:19 PM
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coleman powermate 60 gal single stage 2 piston 7 hp Professional series

keeps up to everything other than a IR DA sander. Mostly used for bodywork stuff lately.

probably should have got a bigger unit or heavy duty as this is probably for moderate use and i'm using it pretty much everyday for 4-10 hours for the last 6 months. Changing the oil every 2 months to hopefully have it last.

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Old 10-19-2004, 01:07 PM
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Compressor(s)

I have a Hitachi 2.5 hp pancake compressor for air nailer & tire filling. I have a 60 gal Sanborn 5hp single stage compressor in the garage currently. I just scored a 80 gal. horizantal Speedaire compressor with a Champion R15B pump and a new(er) 5hp single phase GE motor with a mag starter. (Monster of a motor) The guy threw in the original Dayton 3 phase 5hp motor as well. I found it sitting with a 4 sale sign in a driveway in a residential section of town. What luck! I also let one go at an auction. 80 Gal Horizontal 5 hp 3 phase for $125. Would have cost another $300-$500 for single phase motor & starter, but still a good deal. Keep your eyes open
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Old 10-19-2004, 01:10 PM
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Campbell Hausfeld 10 HP Gasoline, Dual piston pump. Service truck model, formerly on my dad's truck now in my garage. Set up with dual regulators for 1/2 inch (blaster) and 1/4 inch (everything else)

Beefy....

It has no trouble running my Sand blaster, and has no duty cycle issues.
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Old 11-01-2004, 06:01 PM
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Does anyone on here have a 30gal. oil-less Craftsman compressor? I'm seriously thinking about one for my first compressor but not sure about their durability. I guess what I'm wondering is will this thing heat up and fry itself if I put a big air demand on it, i.e. greater than the 6.2 scfm @40psi advertised.

Thanks,

Matt
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Old 11-01-2004, 08:58 PM
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No one but no one has any good words for any oil less compressor. They are limited to very light, intermittant duty and tend to wear out quickly. Even with the lower cost compressors, it is well worth getting an oil lubed one.
And remember, It is impossible to buy too big of a compressor.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2004, 09:20 PM
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OK, I skimmed a little here. Buy the best you can afford and have the electrical capacity to run. But absolutely stay away from the direct drive oilless ones if you plan to work in the same shop where it is running. The noise those things make will drive you nuts. Spend the extra money and get a belt driven with a cast iron pump. I am looking at a new 5 horse 30 galolon upright at tractor supply for about $385. It is the biggest 120 volt one I can find. I would like a bigger one but don't have the extra money to bring in a bigger service. You might also look in Harbour Freight. They have some decent deals and seliver for free plus you have no sales tax.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2004, 05:09 AM
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Air Compressor

Quote:
Originally posted by willys36@aol.com
I wouldn't touch a used tank w/ a 10' pole unless I knew for sure its history. Tanks can look great on the outside, hold a great coat of paint and be nearly rusted through on the inside. When a pressure tank explodes, it makes the network evening news. If you must go the used route, at least make sure it is an ASME coded tank so you have a fighting chance.

See this.

And this.

And this.

And this.

YOUR 100% CORRECT !

That's why you should "if you have the option "
to mount your compressor out of the shop working area,
be it new or used.. Also you don't need the noise .

50 gal. vertical Sanborn 7hp. 4 cylinder air compressor,
Mounted in the side addition to the shop.

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Old 11-04-2004, 09:23 PM
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If you encounter a used tank, turn it completely upside down and smack it a few times with a body pick or chipping hammer right in the middle along the bottom. If the tank is rusted enough to be dangerous, you'll put big dents in it or go right through. Don't trust one that is not ASME rated even if it looks brand new. It could have been made out of little more than thick tinfoil. The ASME ones have to meet minimum thickness standards.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2004, 06:24 PM
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Here's a diagram of a setup for a truck.
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Old 11-17-2004, 12:40 AM
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On a truck, a bumper made out of heavy tube can be used to eliminate the need to locate a reserve tank. My old Suburban had a piece of 6" pipe for a front bumper and it held a lot of air.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2005, 09:02 AM
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puma

I was wondering how long you have had your puma and what you thought of the quality. Is it defficient in any area and can it run an angle grinder without having to recharge after 2-3 min? I am trying to compare it with the husky 60 gallon compressors sold at home depot.

thanks for any information you can provide.
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Old 01-18-2005, 09:09 PM
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The only real way to compare compressor's performance is the CFM rating. That's the only real, consistant standard. A little searching on the internet and you can likely find how much air your tools require. Check that against your proposed compressor and you'll know if you can run continuously. My industrial 7.5 HP 2-stage puts out over 20 cfm at 175 psi so it will run 2 air sanders all the time without straining too hard.
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Old 01-21-2005, 01:59 AM
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One double stage 3 phase compressor with 200 litre tank, don't know how many litres it flows unfortunately. Two portable small ones with 10 and 25 litre tanks and a flow of 90 and 200 litre. These are direct drives and noisy but convenient if you need a compressor to take with you.

The exploded tank pics scare me, my big compressor is 36 years old! Wouldn't have believed that these 8-9 bar make such an explosion. What pressure do we have in the welding bottles...

Regards
Martin
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2005, 12:47 PM
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IR 80 gallong w/5hp (running)

I haven't tried it yet as I just got it this weekend. I am expecting great things from it. hopefully it works as well as it is heavy.

Question: Would anyone suggest that I add something like slick 50 to the compressor oil to help it last longer? I have read a few posts on oil additives and I am not much of a believer in them as the oil from IR is a synthetic and will probably be just fine.

any thoughts would be helpful.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2005, 10:04 PM
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I just got a new Gardner Denver 80 gal 22.5CFM @ 175 PSI, and I am trying to figure out if I should run synthetic in it after the first oil change. It comes with break in oil, and says to run for 8hrs then change.

Does this sound long enough to swap to a synthetic.


Going from my 30 gallon crapsman oiless this thing is a dream come true. Dam 7.5 HP motor is bigger than my head, and thats saying alot
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