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View Poll Results: What kind of Air Compressor do you have?
Oil-less less than 10 gal 6 2.06%
Oil-less 10-20 gal 17 5.84%
Oil-less over 30 gal 42 14.43%
Oiled less than 10 gal 5 1.72%
Oiled 10-20 gal 26 8.93%
Oiled 30-50 gal 40 13.75%
Oiled over 50 gal 150 51.55%
don't know 5 1.72%
Voters: 291. You may not vote on this poll

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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2006, 08:57 AM
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Danny I noticed that you said you have a somewhat older unit using the "peak" HP rating. That ACFM rating could be right since it may refer to the industry standard "Actual cubic feet per minute" which is just fine and what that term is supposed to mean. I know it is getting a bit more confusing here but the problem is the manufacturers have been using this legitimate term to mean "assisted CFM" on some of the newer compressors but where this is done it usually says some where on the tank "tank assisted"

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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2006, 01:04 PM
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Hey thanks a million Oldred hehe, was very confusing at first. But now its starting to all make more sense the more I read up on it. Great info you all keep posting, you guys know whats for real and whats not. lol

Great tip on before shooting a large panel, let it shut off with full load.Really appreciate that knowing even if at 10 cfm, it still is possible to shoot with an air demanding gun. Some confidence is restored.
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  #123 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny G.
I bolted down the same compressor last month. Claims 12+CFM @90, but I doubt its even close. I have been using a sandblaster rated at 9CFM, set with the smallest opening, and it won't keep up regulated at 90PSI. It will hold up for painting, but sandblasting, naw.

Anyway, one problem is when the pressure builds the plastic tube blows more air than the 3/8 hose will, so it seems. That needle valve shouldn't let that much air by. Is there any other pressure switched that don't allow that much air to pass? Kinda depressing to lose that much air trying to charge the system.
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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeMyBone
one problem is when the pressure builds the plastic tube blows more air than the 3/8 hose will, so it seems. That needle valve shouldn't let that much air by. Is there any other pressure switched that don't allow that much air to pass? Kinda depressing to lose that much air trying to charge the system.

Are you talking about the plastic tube that runs from the pump supply side to the regulator? The only time that should release any air at all is when the compressor shuts off after building pressure, and then only for a second or so. Is it always leaking air? Does it leak air continuously after the compressor reaches shut off pressure? If it leaks continuously after shut off instead of just a second or two then you most likely have a faulty back-flow valve, this is located in the top of the tank where the supply line from the pump connects. If it leaks continuously while the compressor is running but stops when it shuts down then the problem will most likely be a faulty regulator. In either case it sometimes is nothing more than a bit of dirt or tiny piece of metal caught in the valve.


Also most of those sandblasters, even with a 3/32" tip, will work any 12 CFM compressor very hard so don't be surprised if it has trouble keeping up with it.
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  #125 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 07:20 PM
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10.04 on the sandblasting uses air comment.

As for the tube, it connects inside a plastic elbow before connecting to the 4 way pressure switch. In the elbow is a couple seals(one of which looks to big for the needle that rides inside), needle, spring, and a hole(maybe 1/8 in diameter which air escapes. I figured air had to flow past, in order for enough pressure to build to push the needle up and contact the switch. I can't recall if other compressors needed blow-by to function. I was looking at a Forney switch and it had a metal elbow, but still had a hole in it.

It's actually a good compressor, no vibration, relatively quiet, nice welds on the mounts.

Condor switch
# MDR 21 EA/11

Air stops flowing when compression is built up.
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeMyBone

As for the tube, it connects inside a plastic elbow before connecting to the 4 way pressure switch. In the elbow is a couple seals(one of which looks to big for the needle that rides inside), needle, spring, and a hole(maybe 1/8 in diameter which air escapes. I figured air had to flow past, in order for enough pressure to build to push the needle up and contact the switch. I can't recall if other compressors needed blow-by to function.

Condor switch
# MDR 21 EA/11

Air stops flowing when compression is built up.

Your unloader valve is bad.

The purpose of this valve is to bleed off the pressure on the pump so that during restart the motor will not be required to start the pump with pressure on it which would require a great deal more torque than to start an unloaded pump.

The way the system works is there is a valve in the tank where the supply line connects and this valve will allow pressure to flow from the pump into the tank but not back the other way, since you have no leakage when shut-off pressure is attained this valve must be working properly. When the pressure switch reaches shut-off pressure it does two things, it will open the contacts and break the electrical circuit to the motor and at the same time it trips open the unloader valve (usually located inside the pressure switch, as in this case) and bleeds off the pressure between the pump and the tank, the backflow valve mentioned before will prevent tank pressure from leaking. Whenever the pressure switch is closed and the motor is running the unloader valve should also be closed and no air should escape but your appears to be stuck open even when the switch is closed and the motor is running, when working normally you will get about a one or two second "hiss" as the pump pressure is discharged when the pressure switch opens and shuts off the motor but other than that it should never be discharging air. You may be able to repair the unloader valve if it just has some debris in it but likely you may have to replace the regulator unit, sounds as if this thing may still be under warranty so you need to give them a call since you do have a problem.
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  #127 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 09:14 PM
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unloader valve

Yes, I took it apart and the innards were melted. Sent an email to Condor, asking for a new elbow. I think they messed up assembling it at the factory, when it came apart there wasn't anything in there that would have stopped air from flowing past the needle, and out the relief hole. Somehow, it wasn't so bad that the spring failed to operate. But man was it wasting energy trying to charge up.

Thanks for the time
Kevin
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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2009, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeMyBone
Somehow, it wasn't so bad that the spring failed to operate. Thanks for the time
Kevin

Actually the valve that plastic line attaches to does not affect the spring operation, the spring opens both it and the contact points at the same time. When this valve malfunctions the other way, that is when it fails to open at all, is when real problems begin! When that happens the pressure will not bleed off the pump when the switch closes so the motor will attempt to start with the pump under pressure which will require a lot more torque, so much so that the motor may stall or even burn out! Failure of the unloader is a fairly common cause of motor failure so when you repair that thing make sure you get that momentary discharge "hiss" when it shuts off and make sure the motor is starting normally.
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2009, 03:14 PM
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If you want something that lasts go with Speed Air.
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 08-23-2009, 10:11 AM
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Fixed it

They send me a new valve, free of charge.
Thanks Condor.

The tube wasn't pushed in fully on the original. Hot air was getting through and melted it. When I pushed the tube into the new valve, it did the same. I was like, ***. Then I pushed more, until finally air stopped leaking. Kinda scary, to not be home, and the compressor fires up and it starts leaking again. The risks we take.
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2014, 12:42 PM
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better off with a 2 stage with oil mine paints cars but the noise drives me nuts da don't run very good I should of went with a 60 gal 2stage with oil thanks
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Old 10-12-2014, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast neutron View Post
Does anyone on here have a 30gal. oil-less Craftsman compressor? I'm seriously thinking about one for my first compressor but not sure about their durability. I guess what I'm wondering is will this thing heat up and fry itself if I put a big air demand on it, i.e. greater than the 6.2 scfm @40psi advertised.

Thanks,

Matt
[I] have no problem with mine crafsmen 33 gallon would rather have a 2 stage with oil would run quieter mine alful loud and is slow to fill....
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  #133 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2014, 07:13 AM
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Regarding the poll;didn't see a "one or more of each" so didn't think I should vote?

On the C-man 30 oiless.....here's a story.We got one 'bout 15 or so years ago after a rather expensive twin tank gas model bit the dust(it lasted about a year).Was kneck deep in building biz,so compressors were being THRASHED and ABUSED beyond any normal thinking.8 hr days runnin multiple big framing nailers with minimal maintenance.If they got the oil checked that was being nice.

So the comp chits the bed,we have to have another right NOW.....so I go snag the C-man 30g.It's a Horiz. tank with what they call a 5HP motor.I know it will only run on a 20 amp circ,and no more than 50' of some heavy G wire.....so call it maybe 4HP in real world?

Expecting it to run maybe 6 months before we trashed it......who cares?The funny thing was,we ran that POS for 5 straight years without a hick-up.Will also add that it sat in the back of a PU truck for that period,rain or shine.It was by far the best on site compressor we ever had.And I was around when pneumatics first showed up on const jobs back in the early 70's.....back in the days of those old twin tank Emglo's and those 50# Senco's.

Still got it,although it's just used for lawn mower tires and G-baby's bikes N stuff.Wouldn't "want" to paint a whole car with it,but could shoot a door or panel easy enough(we have other comp).
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2014, 09:01 AM
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At a bare minimum 5hp 20 gal tank 110v . Never use an oilless compressor in your garage if you plan on using large volumes of air, to noisy cant keep up and designed for heavy use always use a belt drive. Im in this business and can help with questions..
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  #135 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2014, 02:58 PM
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Actually there is no such thing as a 5HP 110 volt compressor or 5 HP 110 volt anything for that matter. Those big HP ratings, as has been discussed many times before, are phony "Peak" ratings or some other such nonsense and are nowhere near 5 HP! They are usually more like 3/4 to maybe 1 HP but any more than that will require more power than can be provided by a 110 outlet.
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