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Old 04-10-2003, 06:23 AM
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Post Air into the cooling system.

I had to fill and lower the coolant level many times recently in my attempt to install a heater in my 383 stroker TVR.I've eliminated the heater by replugging hoses and hot coolant ports. It now tends to overheat and I know there is air into it.How can I get rid of that??

Here's what I've done trying to get rid of it : I've drill a 1/8 inch hole into the 180 degrees thermostat I've refilled with the front of the car raised by 4-6 inches higher from the rear , I've refilled through a 2 feet high tube connected to the filler neck while I had another smaller tube connected to a coolant port on top of my intake. I thought this would eliminate air. When it was full any further filling would correspond into a raise in the small tube telling me there was no air??

Put back the rad. cap (new 16 pounds) after making sure the overflow tube would also be full of coolant. Start and when the thermostat starts to open the is air bubling into the overflow tube.

I guess some air is pushed out then but can I think it will empty all itself with few starts/warm-up period like this? I've also tried to leave the cap off from starting and refill at demand then but some blurping would then spill the coolant and its rather messy!


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Old 04-10-2003, 10:16 AM
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I'm no expert, TVR ... but that sure sounds liken a very unusual procedure!

I'd drain the system, then hook up your hoses and refill the system.

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Old 04-10-2003, 04:14 PM
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Generally what I do is. Fill the radiator and run the engine until it reaches operating temp, then shut if off. This will cause the coolant in the engine to heat up even more, making the thermostat stay open longer. This also allows the air to escape into the radiator, or overflow bottle. Then after the engine cools, I refill the radiator or overflow bottle. Sometimes it takes a couple of cycles, but the air comes out.
You stated that you plugged the heater hoses/ports. This may be your cause of overheating. If you plugged them, try connecting the hoses that would go to the heater together. The engine needs the fow thru that path.
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Old 04-10-2003, 04:27 PM
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I also drill 4 , 1/8" holes in a cross pattern on the outer rim and align 1 with at the 12 o'clock pattern so all the air escapes and stops all cavition. They just started selling thermostats with 1 hole in them.
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Old 04-10-2003, 06:52 PM
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Why not just pick it up and shake it?.

Try burping the system with the aid of pressurized water from a garden hose mated to a screw on fitting welded to the cap. We get water into the often to hot engines this way. Let it cool when you think it's full and put the sixteen puond cap back on.
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Old 04-10-2003, 07:11 PM
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Is it a vacuum type cap?

Ther isn't combustion gasses getting into the cooling sytem? (blown head gasket/ cracked block or head)
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Old 04-11-2003, 02:41 PM
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No appearant signs of blown gasket or heads: Idles good,no oil in coolant neither coolant into oil, I've pressurized the system with that special pump and it holds 16 pounds within time I guess its air grabbing itself somewhere!
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Old 04-11-2003, 02:54 PM
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Refill system about 3/4 full, let car run until it is apparent the thermostat is open and coolant is flowing by looking in the rad opening. Top off while engine is running and let system settle so that water is apparent at the filler neck and it not going down any longer. The other method I have used on difficult systems is to fill through the upper rad hose and then connect to the full rad (not running of course).
“She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself.”

— Han Solo
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