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Old 02-27-2011, 02:48 PM
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I'm getting ready to run copper airline in my small garage. i drew a sketch of what i think would work to eliminate my moisture problem. i asked this already but i didnt have a picture. i want to be sure this will work cause copper is expensive and i only want to do this once. let me know what i need to change or add etc. thanks for the help in advance. Ivan
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevelle427Rat
I'm getting ready to run copper airline in my small garage. i drew a sketch of what i think would work to eliminate my moisture problem. i asked this already but i didnt have a picture. i want to be sure this will work cause copper is expensive and i only want to do this once. let me know what i need to change or add etc. thanks for the help in advance. Ivan
I wanted the kind of setup that you do, maybe not as elaborate. My play-pin is an attached two car garage and enough room to work on one car comfortably at a time. When I installed an internal pressure air system, I used PVC tubing. There have been several problems around here with copper pipes that begin to leak after a few years. That may be solved now but there is a reduction in cost when you use plastic instead of copper. It worked for me.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:18 PM
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Re: air lines

Sorry my pix is upside down. It wouldn't let me flip it. I was told on the leaking part is that if its soldered well it won't leak. I'm not gonna use pvc because of all the horror stories about it. I don't want that happening in my garage. No offense I hope. My system is elaborate because we have 4 seasons here and moisture just pours out the exhaust of my tools. Thank for the input. Ivan.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:25 AM
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Air Lines

The leaks we have experienced here were not in the solder joints, they were actually in the pipes! This is real problem on a two story house when it also ruins the ceiling of the first floor.

I would recommend two things you could do to minimize the moisture problem, first a water trap at the outlet of the compressor and a drain valve at the lowest point in your system. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:10 AM
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comming out of the compressor u should have a T that goes to a drop with bleeder then up to your main air lines. the drop is to drain and i'd do about 12" of a larger tubing.
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:37 AM
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So what you are saying is run a drop right off of my flex line with a petcock? I'm running1/2" line so maybe 1" for that drop then run it according to my drawing? Other than that does everything else look like it will work? Thanks for the input. Ivan.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:19 AM
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air lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevelle427Rat
I'm getting ready to run copper airline in my small garage. i drew a sketch of what i think would work to eliminate my moisture problem. i asked this already but i didnt have a picture. i want to be sure this will work cause copper is expensive and i only want to do this once. let me know what i need to change or add etc. thanks for the help in advance. Ivan
Why copper, when it cost a bundle. I used black pipe, used that in my machine shop also and we have four seasons here. you just have to do as others said and put water traps in the lines, I have a big area and different things hooked into the line I put water traps before everything. If you don't have water traps you will have water wherever you are. When the compressor is running the air is hot, then it cools down and you get the water in your tank. You have to drain your tank once in awhile also, if you don't you will always have water.

Bob
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:35 AM
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I was thinking copper cause it easy to work with and I thought black pipe has a rust problem cause its not meant for moisture. My total run with drops is less that 40 ft. Do I need any more filters than what I have in my drawing? Sorry the picture is upside down. Btw I'm pretty new here and I really like this forum! Everyone is very knowledgeable and helpful! This is my first forum I've ever joined and I'm very impressed. Thanks. Ivan.
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevelle427Rat
I was thinking copper cause it easy to work with and I thought black pipe has a rust problem cause its not meant for moisture. My total run with drops is less that 40 ft. Do I need any more filters than what I have in my drawing? Sorry the picture is upside down. Btw I'm pretty new here and I really like this forum! Everyone is very knowledgeable and helpful! This is my first forum I've ever joined and I'm very impressed. Thanks. Ivan.
We had in our shop for 35 years with no problem. I have had it in my shop at home for 4 years. They used black pipe as water lines in houses for years.
I really can't make out your drawing to see what you have for traps, on my compressor alone I have four water traps, One for the air lines, two for the hose when I paint, and one for my sand blasting cabinet, I also have another one right at the sand blaster, it might be overkill but I don't get any water. I also l run the air out and take the drain plug out about once a month or every six weeks. Never get much water but it is just a habit I have. My tank holds about 175 pounds of pressure, so you have to make sure you drain it first.

Bob
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:59 PM
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Black pipe is not only cheaper, it is specifically used for air line piping because the thermal mass of the iron cools the air, causing any moisture to condense out before the air gets to your tools or spray gun. Your drawing looks a lot like the one that TP Tools has on the web:

http://www.tptools.com/statictext/ai...ng-diagram.pdf

Note that they also recommend black pipe, not copper.
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:10 PM
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Thanks for the good info. My picture is upside down. I have my filter teed off the last drop going to the hose reel. Is that enough? I'm not running anything else but air tools at the moment. I'm gonna go check on the black pipe tonight. Pipe dope or sealant tape?. Thanks. Ivan.
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevelle427Rat
Thanks for the good info. My picture is upside down.
Yeah, I got that.

Quote:
I have my filter teed off the last drop going to the hose reel. Is that enough? I'm not running anything else but air tools at the moment. I'm gonna go check on the black pipe tonight. Pipe dope or sealant tape?. Thanks. Ivan.
You'll want a filter everywhere you are going to connect a tool or hose. If you only plan to use air tools at a particular drop, you can use a less expensive filter than where you plan to use a spray gun. You can also make your filter "portable" with a short section of air hose that can plug into any one of the drops. Just hang a bracket on the wall at each location.
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:51 PM
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thanks everyone for the great ideas and opinions. I'll see if i can make it happen. I'll try to take some pictures and post them. Ivan.
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:31 PM
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Personally I prefer Copper for the cooling but with 40' Black iron will work probably just as good, hardly much practical difference anyway as far as cooling. While black iron could rust inside I have never seen that to be a problem and I have seen a lot of black iron used, I think it is more imaginary than fact, it seems like it would, maybe, so it does right? The fact is you are going to have to filter the air anyway so small amounts of debris forming in the lines will be filtered, probably any significant rust that will form will be in the traps where water might stand for a while and rust there is no problem.
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:03 PM
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i think im gonna go with black iron pipe and put filters on my three drops. do i need a drop right off the flex line? do i want to use pipe dope or sealant tape for the joints? Ivan
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