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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2007, 02:05 PM
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Echo I did not tell you to not use that junk I did suggest you get rid of it because I assumed you simply did not know better, a lot of folks don't. "I could not afford anything else" is a poor excuse when the cost of iron pipe is not that much more and is cheap insurance indeed but even if cost were an obstacle then simply using rubber air hose would be cheaper still, just as effective as PVC for cooling (which is very poor) and a hell of a lot safer, BTW that 2" section you mention could easily be lethal! People come here and ask questions because they want to know how to do something and anyone who replies has a responsibility to put safety FIRST above all else. If you have something to add to a discussion fine by all means speak up and if you disagree with someone then put in your opinion and tell everyone why you disagree but you should NEVER tell someone who may not know better to do something that may get them hurt or maybe even killed. I disagree sometimes, sometimes strongly depending on the situation, and I try to respect the other guys opinion if he thinks he is right even if we never agree but I will never have respect for anyone who would carelessly endanger someone else. As far as OHSA having a "thing" about public safety as you put it they certainly do and for a darn good reason! I have worked around and serviced the mining industry since 1970 and I have been unfortunate enough to witness several serious accidents including three fatalities and in each case MSHA rules had been ignored or at least not followed to the letter. You sir are an accident looking for a place to happen and for you to recklessly recommend a known hazard and then point at your guard-less belt as an act of defiance says volumes about your character, or lack of.

FWIW, At a mine in Southeast KY in 1979 I had a friend who all but lost most of his right hand because of a missing belt guard on an air compressor, I am not making that up it is the truth. You do things the way you see fit and the rest of us can only hope that you will cause no one else any harm.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2007, 11:04 PM
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OldRed,
Thank you for posting what you have in this section. I am knew to the forums and and still "setting up shop" (for 2 years now). I have my compressor (somewhat cheap Craftsman) set up with the regulator and filter / trap right off the compressor with a 50' hose.
Don't worry, you don't have to say it.... I'm looking at getting rid of that setup before using the compressor any further. I've had my impact gun spit water enough times and my blast cabinet clog up like crazy in the summer.
I will also drain down the tank and make sure everything is cleaned out before doing any work.
I've kind of grown attached to all my body parts and would like to keep all of them in working order until I no longer need any of them.
I will be using pipe to plumb a main feed around the garage to several outlets.
What I would like to ask you is the following:
1. Would it be better to run the main pipe around the top of the ceiling (8') and then put drop-downs' in, or run it around at working height slightly sloping down to one end on each wall? I was also thinking of running the main feeds up through the attic and then dropping down, but think the temp. difference in the seasons may affect the moisture problem more than the rubber hose?
2. What size and type pipe should I use? What do you use to seal all joints and connectors?
3. I've been looking at a setup from TP tools but it seems like I could put it together cheaper from Lowes or Home Depot. What do you think of this?...
http://www.tptools.com/product_view_...HWRUGE6FTG2D4D
4. Finally, can you recommend a good shop compressor for a serious hobby shop for $900 or less?
Thank you.
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Old 02-10-2007, 08:25 PM
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Well, thanks for the replies here, I know intentions are always to help. I didn't expect to get into the airline material discussion. Good to have concientious folks point questionable reasoning. If it ever gets to the point somebody can sue because they did something they read on the internet, and it was bad advice, the lawyers shall inherit the earth.

I'm actually replacing the PVC lines I had in my garage, which I put in before I found this great forum. They're inside plywood walls, but as oldred pointed out, point is to cool and condense, they'll be even worse at that inside there.

I'm confused though why the words to describe copper lines are "dicey," "not the best," etc. I realize black iron and galvanized work fine, but why not copper, other than cost (which isn't much different with type M now)? I'm willing to listen to opinions. As oldred said, 3/4" type L copper (table here) is good to close to 600 psi at 100 deg F., type M (table here) over 400 psi at that temp. 95-5 solder (table here) good to over 600 psi too. Type M still gives me a safety factor of 2 over 175 psi required. In my small garage, seems ideal. I've heard some use type L copper, but that doesn't seem necessary either unless these tables are wrong.
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:15 PM
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Bee type M should be just fine I have installed a bunch of "L" but this was in shops for companies with deep pockets. Copper does have advantages in cooling and the fact it stays so clean inside, it always was and still is my first choice.

Just a note about strength, I know of a home made align boring mill that has some short pieces of copper pipe, not sure if it is "M" or "L" just some left over pieces, that are sometimes subjected to nearly 2000 lbs of hydraulic pressure and he has not busted one yet. I don't think it would be too "dicey" for air line
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2007, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeTX
Well, thanks for the replies here, I know intentions are always to help. I didn't expect to get into the airline material discussion. Good to have concientious folks point questionable reasoning. If it ever gets to the point somebody can sue because they did something they read on the internet, and it was bad advice, the lawyers shall inherit the earth.

I'm actually replacing the PVC lines I had in my garage, which I put in before I found this great forum. They're inside plywood walls, but as oldred pointed out, point is to cool and condense, they'll be even worse at that inside there.

I'm confused though why the words to describe copper lines are "dicey," "not the best," etc. I realize black iron and galvanized work fine, but why not copper, other than cost (which isn't much different with type M now)? I'm willing to listen to opinions. As oldred said, 3/4" type L copper (table here) is good to close to 600 psi at 100 deg F., type M (table here) over 400 psi at that temp. 95-5 solder (table here) good to over 600 psi too. Type M still gives me a safety factor of 2 over 175 psi required. In my small garage, seems ideal. I've heard some use type L copper, but that doesn't seem necessary either unless these tables are wrong.
I went copper, better heat dissapation, because galvanized and black pipe can introduce contaminants into the air system...rust...I went with L because it is thicker wall than M and that makes me sleep better at night...the difference in price was nominal and depending on what type of airlines you like 1 or 2 50ft 3/8 auto reels will reach quite a way in your shop and not require extensive/expensive piping

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Old 02-16-2007, 08:47 PM
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Thanks oldred and Rambo. Looks good, Rambo! Well, I let this sit a week, nobody seems to have any real basis for not using copper (altough the thread wasn't labeled for that). Speak now or hold your peace! Only thing I can think of is strength if hit with something, mine will be high up.

Good to hear on the hydraulic pressure oldred, that seems to prove the tables right, since they give bursting pressure in the thousands of psi. Thanks again.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2007, 09:01 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but every compressor that I've seen so far has a pipe connecting the compression cylinder(s) to the tank to pump the air in.
Has anyone else noticed what that pipe is made out of?

On most I have seen it is........ copper.
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:37 AM
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I just finished piping my garage with 3/4" galvanized a few months ago. If I did it again I would go with copper simply because of the easier installation. I used a manual threader and it was very time consuming.

Danny
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Old 02-17-2007, 10:03 AM
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NH, Darn good point!
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