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Old 02-23-2009, 06:27 AM
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Are all '010' blocks good?

I have a SBC 4 bolt 350 block castign # 3970010. I think this should be one of the high nickle blocks that are supposed to be strong blocks but this one has bluish paint on it, not chevy orange. Are all 010 blocks high nickle blocks or are some junk?

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Old 02-23-2009, 06:36 AM
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Under the timing cover should be a "010"=1%nickle.If it says "010" and "020" it means 1% tin and 2% nickle.This is according to The Chevy Interchange Manual.My 2-bolt main block is 010 and 020, so apparently it aint just 4-bolts that are stronger.Good Luck.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpower_454
I have a SBC 4 bolt 350 block castign # 3970010. I think this should be one of the high nickle blocks that are supposed to be strong blocks but this one has bluish paint on it, not chevy orange. Are all 010 blocks high nickle blocks or are some junk?
if the paint is from factory it is a 1977 and up 350. high nickel or not, a #3970010 block, 2 or 4 bolt they are still good enough to build.
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Old 02-23-2009, 08:11 AM
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High nickle and high tin blocks are "supposed" to be better than the other blocks, but it's been debated on here many times by the machine shop and builder guys.

Overall, if the block (any block actually) is sound, as in free from defects and passes a sonic wall thickness test, it's a good block. Now, if you are wanting to get a million HP out of a stock block, then no, it's not a good candidate for that, but for a good street builder, they are fine.

Mark
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Old 02-23-2009, 08:24 AM
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check bell housing area for HENCHO EN MEXICO.
if its there I wouldnt build a high HP motor with that block.
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:50 AM
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No, there is no HECHO in MEXICO. It only has 010 under the timing cover. I think I have another one that has 010 and 020. I'll have to check. Maybe I'll get that one cleaned up instead.
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:17 AM
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Are all `010`blocks good

That is a great block for a build up, 4 bolter makes it even better. Your crank throw could make it a 327 or 350 with same block. 327/350 hp
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:26 AM
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On some other forum (to which I have a link on some other computer) has a GM foundry worker who explains the whole kit and caboodle. First of all, the casting number that ends with 010 has nothing to do with the nickel content. It simply denotes the casting number. On the side, there are "010" and "020" castings that are rumored to denote the nickel and tin content; the numbers standing for 1% and 2%. The nickel makes it harder, and the tin helps it flow into the mold better.

In truth, even if it has the 010 on the side, its not necessarily a high nickel block... and even if it were, that doesn't make it good for high performance. Harder means more brittle. Over the years, GM has made a lot of engines, and the ones that get the higher nickel content have been the low-rpm engines: caddy 472/500, 366T, 350 in truck applications, Olds 455. Vibrations are what can really kill high-rpm blocks, and the harder the alloy, the less they are able to absorb them. Think of it like a wooden table vs a glass table. Whack the soft wood with a hammer and it dents. The glass is obviously harder, but what happens when you whack it with a hammer... The same is true of cast engine parts vs forged. Forged parts absorb impact which is what makes them suited for high performance. Cast parts are more brittle. I actually avoid high nickel blocks for high RPMs. I seek them out for street reliability and low-rpms

GM used the 010 casting with a wide variety of alloys depending on the application. Its a reliably good casting with a little thicker main webbing, and reliably thick cylinder walls and decks. But don't count on it to have any specific nickel content.... nor should nickel content be confused with high performance. Harder does not equal stronger.
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327 / 350 hp
That is a great block for a build up, 4 bolter makes it even better. Your crank throw could make it a 327 or 350 with same block. 327/350 hp
Or 383
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:36 AM
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``010``blocks

Thank you curtis73
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:54 PM
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We always look at the camshaft area from the front of the block, and the area around the freeze plugs to see if they are drilled in the center of the casting,or off one direction or another, it's an 'ol timer way to visually see if the block has "core shift" then have it sonic checked if you plan on a .060+ overbore!
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis73
On some other forum (to which I have a link on some other computer) has a GM foundry worker who explains the whole kit and caboodle. First of all, the casting number that ends with 010 has nothing to do with the nickel content. It simply denotes the casting number. On the side, there are "010" and "020" castings that are rumored to denote the nickel and tin content; the numbers standing for 1% and 2%. The nickel makes it harder, and the tin helps it flow into the mold better.

In truth, even if it has the 010 on the side, its not necessarily a high nickel block... and even if it were, that doesn't make it good for high performance. Harder means more brittle. Over the years, GM has made a lot of engines, and the ones that get the higher nickel content have been the low-rpm engines: caddy 472/500, 366T, 350 in truck applications, Olds 455. Vibrations are what can really kill high-rpm blocks, and the harder the alloy, the less they are able to absorb them. Think of it like a wooden table vs a glass table. Whack the soft wood with a hammer and it dents. The glass is obviously harder, but what happens when you whack it with a hammer... The same is true of cast engine parts vs forged. Forged parts absorb impact which is what makes them suited for high performance. Cast parts are more brittle. I actually avoid high nickel blocks for high RPMs. I seek them out for street reliability and low-rpms

GM used the 010 casting with a wide variety of alloys depending on the application. Its a reliably good casting with a little thicker main webbing, and reliably thick cylinder walls and decks. But don't count on it to have any specific nickel content.... nor should nickel content be confused with high performance. Harder does not equal stronger.
I have read and heard different on this. There are a few high performance shops still looking for these older blocks. Who wouldn't want a stronger block. They are stronger (010/020 blocks). Cylinder wear is better.. and that's all it really boils down to.
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Old 02-23-2009, 08:59 PM
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Splitting hairs. Differences between the blocks would be neglible.
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:35 PM
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Presicely!
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos9
Who wouldn't want a stronger block. They are stronger (010/020 blocks). Cylinder wear is better.. and that's all it really boils down to.

Again... high nickel blocks are HARDER. That does NOT imply stronger.

Cast cranks are HARDER than forged cranks. Do you rush out and buy a cast crank for high performance builds? You have mistaken "harder" with "stronger." That is just not the case.

Cylinder wear is not the only factor. If I want to build a long-lasting, low-rpm motor, I'll build a Caddy 500. They have the highest nickel content of any GM engine... but they also have been known to snap off mains at high RPMs.
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