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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2006, 11:26 AM
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Cooling capasity, more important cause we are running AC.
thanks!

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2006, 12:02 PM
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go with a world products, they are really nice
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Old 03-05-2006, 12:11 PM
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Driving to and from the track 11.01, 125 on motor.

Fine, any of the blocks will be very understressed on the street. These blocks are designed to handle 1000 to 1500 HP. Unless a rod goes through them your not going to hurt them. Any of the blocks your thinking of would be excellent, way overengineered for anything you'd expose them to on the street. You can not overstress these blocks in a street situation. Two class champs I know in NMCA have run the Dart blocks to the tune of low 7's and 8's with no issues whatsoever for multiple seasons. You just are not going to have issues with the blocks.

What you need to decide on first is how your going to configure the engine. The stroke, bore, and rods you want to use. Then work with the vendors to define your options within their specs. Building these motors I like a big stroke to keep the bores smaller. Leaves more room to freshen in the future. I also much prefer the taller than stock deck to get a decent rod length in there as well as a good pin height. If the pinheight is too high pin oiling and pin sticking becomes an issue. Wet sump oiling design versus a dry sump that can be converted to wet sump is also important for the typical hot rodder.

After looking at all the new blocks at the Performance Racing Industry Show in Orlando this year I would purchase a Brodix as my first choice and the Dart as my second. I would choose the raised camshaft location and spread rails (for stroker clearance) and standard small block cam journal sizes (you can spec bore sizes in big block configuration but cam cores are expensive). I'd go 9.5 deck to get a 6.2 rod in and a decent pin height on the piston (a short deck height and big cubes can put pin height too high and cause pin oiling problems due to heat). I'd have Brodix (or any of the others for that matter) final hone the mains to size prior to delivery. Specing the tall deck will create an issue if you have stock AC and may mean you have to run a smaller than stock brake booster. You will also have to have a slip collar distributor and spacers for the intake to sit on the block. All stuff the manufacturer can help you will. The spread rail pan rails will require an oil pan designed for a rocket block and can be purchased through Canton as well as others.

The Donovan is a extremely nice block but for the street I'd want to do some modifications in the valley for return oiling, not an issue since we'd simply slap it on the Bridgeport but for the average Joe not an option. A lot of oil gets pumped through these blocks with the way the oiling system is designed and returns needs to be well thought out. One benefit to the Donovan is it has an oil filter boss. With the others you remote mount the filter. Not a biggie and helps with header clearance remote mounting the filter.

Cooling will not be an issue with any of the blocks. All have full water jackets. Again, all these blocks are designed to take an enormous amount of heat when loaded to 1500 HP. The heat rejected into the block with a 500 or 600 HP motor is nothing in comparison.
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Old 03-05-2006, 12:35 PM
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Whoa Rick, your comments are what being part of this site is all about! I appreciate you taking the time.
Good thing I used the 8" booster. Dumb luck sometimes wins!
We want to stay old school, so we'd like to have the numbers work out
to: 427. Any problem?

Last edited by 1Fine69; 03-05-2006 at 12:47 PM.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2006, 12:46 PM
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Yup, that will help. When moving up to a block like this it just makes sense to take advantage of ALL the features it brings you. When building a BIG small block the Donovan, Dart and Brodix give you all the options. Using these options will allow you to build a very streetable 600 HP motor with the right heads.

Cylinder head selection is the other major variable you will run into, and what will govern the amount of power your make. If you have the budget an 18 degree head would be very worthwhile. Most likely no matter how you configure the engine you'll need some type of custom header. So choosing the best head and worrying about headers later makes sense. The 18 degree heads out there are available now with sufficient combustion chambers sizes to keep compression in check. You should be able to run 10.5 to 11:1 with pump 93 and a good 18 degree head. I run 11.5 with EFI.
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Old 03-05-2006, 06:26 PM
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Are you saying that the exhaust ports on 18 degree heads is different than that of the stock GM config?
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Old 03-05-2006, 11:27 PM
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Yes they are, as are the intake ports. What a head like that does for you though is flow MUCH better. The other option, which still requires a dedicated intake and different headers is a raised runner 23 degree head.

The cylinder head selection will depend on how much you want to spend and how streetable you want the motor to be. You can make a very streetable 600 HP with a very good head, like mentioned above. Or you can choose a standard 23 degree head with much lower flow figures and make a streetable 500 HP. Very good cylinder heads will allow you to keep a reasonable camshaft duration for street operation but flow enough air to breath on top to make power. FLow difference with the better heads is anywhere from 30 to 50 CFM. Cost difference is $2000 for a big 23 degree head or $3000 to 4000 for a raised runner or 18 degree.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2006, 12:05 AM
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Just a comment

If onw wishes to build a real all out streeter then maybe These heads are worth a look..the 4 valve heads give a broader power band and when you look at making a 2 valve head "work" one can need to do a lot of work on it..

Just a thought any way..

Sam
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