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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 05-14-2011, 01:18 PM
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At work I use Dynabrade, at home I have AirVantage and they're both great sanders. Of course I like my AirVantage as it's made of more metal parts and seems like heavy duty d/a sander
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
You are right there, it can be an aggressive tool. As long as the newbe isn't trying to do finish sanding or something it should be fine. I can remember when it was the ONLY option so the learning curve is steep.

Brian
Those ND's are what I learned on too (EVERYONE had them).but now days I feel like a cave man using a rock to smash something when use one....You should have seen my face when I tried my first hutchins DA,it was like a tool from god......I still have and use my first Nd 8" I ever bought (its holding up better than me too) Its just one of those tools you cant do without...ND really nailed it with that one....actually ALL the ND's seem to last forever ,you can throw them across the shop, run over them,drop them off a semi's roof ,pick it up ,dust it off and go back to work with it,I know because I've done all these things with the one I had....I kinda wish I still had my old ND da I'd put it on the shelf next to my old screw in dent pullers, siphon guns and unopen gallons of lacquer primer and paints and reminise about the good ole days.
You ever dropped one of those first ND da's on your foot?????
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
DBM, I know a lot of guys don't like the good old DAQ anymore. I had one fellow at work who gave me a perfectly good one (we are talking looked like new). Then one day he was doing a door skin and I showed him how I use it...
So, can't you say in a nutshell what you mean by how to use it?
I've got one of this coming. I ordered it before anything negative was said here about it.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 02:58 PM
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I'll let Brian tell ya how but the main thing to watch out for and NOT doing is letting the pad spin when it touches the surface ,always stop the pad from spinning before hand ,it'll put a halfmoon groove in the surface that you wont see until you paint...and you cant lift it off the surface and put it back on ,the rpms increse and the same thing happens.so put it on the car then start the DA and never let the pad come of the surface...
the better quality finish sanders (300.00 +) like the hutchins wont do this but its still a good habit to get into...you can eliminate a 75% of problems you'll have by just replacing the pad.mainly the aluminum backing plate hits door edges ,mirrors,moldings and glass and beats it to death...you'll want a velcro pad anyways ,those stick on sand papers are long outdated and a waste of time and money as far as using it for a DA goes any ways .....the sticky paper IS great for other sanders....the mud hog and air files etc...
Anyone remember DA paper that didnt come pre glued? we used to have to put the glue (tree sap) on the pad then put the paper on. It would fly off and stick in your hair or worse the guy next to you's hair...Man what a PITA that stuff was...and if you laughed when it stuck in your co workers hair (because it's funnier than heck) you better run....
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1
So, can't you say in a nutshell what you mean by how to use it?
I've got one of this coming. I ordered it before anything negative was said here about it.
It's at this link. "Basics of Basics" Metal finishing small dents.

Brian
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 08:20 PM
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Brian,

I read that before. It doesn't even begin to answer my specific question. That thread doesn't talk about the D/A itself at all. DB addressed my question some. Do have anything to add to that?

Roger
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 11:11 PM
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Honestly Roger, you own it, ignore the negative things at this time and just hook up the air and use it. It is a great sander, to explain how to "use it" in some way I don't know how to put that into words.

Just as you would any other sander, you hook the air up to it and move it around on the surface smoothing it. This is THE tool used for many years by everyone who did body and paint. I used one for years as everyone else did and yes the newer orbital sanders are better for more finishing style work, the DAQ is a great tool. The funny thing is, the newer orbital sanders simply do MORE than the old DAQ. Back 20 years ago you wouldn't have dreamed of wet sanding clear to buff it with a DAQ, but you do now with an orbital.

The DAQ is more aggressive, it will sand faster for instance. But don't worry about it right now, it will do your job for you in prepping the body for primer.

Brian
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 05-15-2011, 11:20 PM
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Thanks Brian. That helps.

I was just starting to think from the earlier post that maybe there was something different or tricky about it when you said you had to show some guy how to use it.

I won't be using it to sand after primering or painting. I want it for stripping and prepping for primer, so it sounds like it will be good for that.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 12:01 AM
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What I showed him was using it to metal finish in the "grinder" mode as explained in my link. To prep for primer it will be perfect.

Brian
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 06:24 AM
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I may have been a little too critical and vague This is the first "good" DA I learned on and the one I made the negitive comments about..http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...30674C405.aspx
Like Brian said they ARE a work horse and will work perfectly well for that kind of work. you wont be useing one every day /all day/all week and you'll never wear out a handle.When I was useing this sander I had to sand about 5 cars a day and they had to be sanded completly...that sander was heavy,loud and it would viberate the heck out of you and the sheet metal,it would wear you out..my next DA was also a ND but a step up http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...r-P142960.aspx ... it still had the mangler bearing and would lock into a grinder but the viberation was so much better and it was a lot quieter,at the time it was the best Da I've ever used and I loved it..........Until I tried a hutchins it was all over then ,the hutchings pattern was so tight I could almost sand up to the chrome and moldings without any scuffing,very ez to control,it was a difference of night and day.I still used the ND for stripping and most of the bull work and I also used that ND for many ,many years before I got my first hutchins ...so it'll work just fine for you too.(just change that stock pad) I cant describe the difference between the Da's ,you would have to experiance it for yourself that little IR da is very close to the hutchins http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com...px-am_en-32480 and half the weight and half the price its the da I would recommend buying thats all ,but the ND you bought WILL be fine it just has a few draw backs for a pro,but then again lots of pros still use them just not every day.
Never let a spinnig pad touch the car ,thats the best thing I can tell ya about using that da...and plan on leaving it to your grandchildrens grandchildren because they do last forever...

Last edited by deadbodyman; 05-16-2011 at 06:30 AM.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Never let a spinnig pad touch the car ,thats the best thing I can tell ya about using that da...
There is some perfect advice on the use Roger. When the pad is not in contact with the surface and you pull the trigger it will start to spin like a grinder. If you pull the trigger before you have it on the surface there is a good chance it will be spinning and not orbiting and when you do touch the surface it will put a small grinder like damage in the paint before it starts orbiting.

VERY good DBM, this is the stuff he needs to hear if he is going to be using one of those.

Brian
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 07:16 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys and thank you for all those details DBM.

My 2 new D/A's should arrive in a couple of days and I'm ready to give them a workout.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Anyone remember DA paper that didnt come pre glued? we used to have to put the glue (tree sap) on the pad then put the paper on. It would fly off and stick in your hair or worse the guy next to you's hair...Man what a PITA that stuff was...and if you laughed when it stuck in your co workers hair (because it's funnier than heck) you better run....
Yup, hated it just like every one else!
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 09:13 AM
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LOL, yep out of a tube you put it on then put the paper on it and "swirled it" around a little to spread the glue then pulled it off and stuck it on a few times to flash off the glue, THEN went to work. The spray on stuff was a God sent!

I hadn't thought about that in years, thanks for the memories. I wish I had an old tube of that glue to put on my garage wall.

Brian
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 05-16-2011, 10:31 AM
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there are huge differences in the D/A's. I used a JET 6" D/A for years and thought all of them were the same. Once I got my DAQ, the JET has been put up and doesn't even have a new Hansen high flow coupling on it(I changed to them three years ago), it shakes to beat the band. My IRT "jitterbug" is great for finish work but it isn't exactly a D/A since it cannot be locked like a D/A. The DAQ is my choice of the three.
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