[HotRodKush]

Alright, I'm starting my search and have a question...the first of many I'm sure...

Were all of the Model A car chassis built to the same specs (length, width, etc.) from model to model, and from year to year? I know that the truck frames are larger, but would there be any difference between, say, a '30 roadster and a '31 coupe chassis, or any other combination of year and/or model?

Also, what bodies from the early model A's to the mid-30's can I use with what frames? I'm specifically looking for a roadster or coupe body, and I've been trying to find some information online, but I haven't found anything on body/chassis interchangability from year to year.

Sorry if this is a painfully basic question, but I've just had no luck in finding answers online.

Thanks!
Aaron

[home brew]

All car and small truck frames were the same and all bodies will fit on this frame. Here is link to drawings of the frame.

http://www.wescottsauto.com/site2003C/frame_specs.html

Here is a link to the Model A Ford Club of America web site reference page. Lots of good info here about Model A's.

http://www.mafca.com/references.html

[HotRodKush]

Cool, thanks for the great info, I'll check those links out

[Deuce]

About the only other chassis that fits a Model A is

A 1932 Ford chassis........
Even the 32 chassis requires some modifications but was the " Hot Setup " years ago.


1) Longer wheelbase
2) much stronger frame
3) much prettier frame
4) First frame for the V8 Fords......
5) they sit lower

[HotRodKush]

ahh that's good to know, thanks. Are most early hot rods still built with the '32 chassis, or is it still reasonable to build a low rod with an earlier chassis?

I can't get enough of the channeled cars I've seen, so that's the look I'm going to try to achieve - would the '32 chassis be ideal, or would it not matter what chassis is used for that extreme of a drop?

Here's an example of what I'm talking about...

[Deuce]

Most all the Model A's on 32 Chassis sit on top of the chassis.....so the pretty chassis shape and the classic reveal can be seen. For the LOOK you like......a custom made box tubing chassis or a Model A chassis redone would be the easier.



Most rod shops sell the above for around $800.......brand new......boxed and jigged.

[HotRodKush]

Hey thanks alot - I'm trying to stay on a small budget though..I've seen full rolling chassis for around a grand, in various levels of disrepair, but complete nonetheless. How would a custom frame like the picture above differ from the original Model A frames?

[home brew]

HotRodKush The frame in the picture above is probably the same dimensions as a stock frame. If you are on a budget you could build your own frame. There are several ways to go about it. One is to use a homebuilt t bucket style frame and channel the body over it. There are plans available for this and several people on this site could send them to you or you can buy them.

As well there is a multitude of sites on the internet that you should be using to research this project. Use the search engine on this site and also google and try typing in various word combinations to see what you can find. "Rat rod", " old school rod" and "traditional hot rod" would be good starters.

For using stock type homebuilt frames for Model A's this is a good read.

http://www.the-antidote.com/frames/1home.htm

This the page which shows the start of the homebuilt frame:

http://www.the-antidote.com/frames/1home.htm

There is a good tread here on this site about building a frame and body for a "rat rod" which includes lots of other links as well.

http://hotrodders.com/forum/designin...=build+rat+rod

You've got a lot of reading to do. Go for it.

[HotRodKush]

Awesome, thanks for all the info and links, I've got my work cut out for me

Aaron

[loiselle]

The frame on the coupe, sedan, roadster, and pickup were the same. The larger Model AA trucks had a stronger and longer frame. I am using a Model AA frame on my 1930 Model A closed cab pickup and it works fine. Some mods were done. I have it fully boxed for strength. I used a 1" dropped front cross member, 4" dropped tubular axle, tube shocks in front, hair pins, 9" Ford rear end, coil over shocks in rear with triangulated 4-bars. I am running a mild Chevy 350 (around 300hp) hooked to a TH350 trans. It will be a resto rod and except for wheels and lower stance all of the mods are under the skin. I also have Vintage heat/ac. Wife said she would not ride in it without a/c. Sheesh.

Larry

[Sir]

Hello just a quick one for you guys . I have a 29A which i have started to restore but have to get her on the Road and M,O,T before i can get her registered . Before i can start to Rod her .Can i box the chassis while she is sitting on her wheels or do i have to place the chassis in the jig. I been told that the chassis can twist during boxing is this right cheers.

[Irelands child]

Looks like you had to dig into the archives for this thread - but that's why they are there

There are a couple of good reasons to totally disassemble an original frame - particularly a Model A. The first, of course is to bolt it to a flat or otherwise hold it to keep from twisting. A second is to be able to check the frame for squareness and integrity. In the 78 to 81 years since these OEM chassis were built, there is a very good chance that some owner has had an accident and the frame is trapezoidal, kinked or otherwise bent. Additionally, the roads in England as well as the rest of the world prior to the '50s were pretty bad. Since the 'A' chassis was built with that in mind, they were built to flex. This flexing has caused some areas of the steel to crack and/or crystallize. The Model A is particularly weak at the transmission mount cross member as well as the front at the spring bolt area. There is the possibility that some of the frame holes have cracks radiating from them. Also, these frames are riveted together - and this would be a good chance to remove those rivets and do a full weld up, replace the cross members and possibly "kick up" the rear for better clearance around the differential, or to lower the back if you are using a stock type rear spring. It will also allow you to use coil overs as well. You can also add cross members at this time for more strength and position the engine/ transmission cross member assembly while the body is off. Of course, the best way - replace the entire chassis with an after market unit with all new steel saving lots of time and work.

This is my IFS version from TCI:

and finished:


Dave W

[Sir]

Cheers Dave thats help me out quit a bit and answer why my front cross member has a small crack in it.
Well i well have a closer inspection of the chassis then decide what way to go .I want to try and keep her as original as possible if i can but will let you know how i get on .Thanks for the information. Robbie