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4porte3 03-13-2012 06:12 PM

Almost there - Torqueflite A727 rebuild
1980 lockup unit, my first rebuild.

Taking it apart was easy, cleaning went ok, got all the seals, bushings & parts replaced. Installed a TF-2 shift kit while I was there.

Assembled everything back into respective sub-units, and stopped. I have a few questions before proceeding, don't want to mess it up and have to do it all over again in a month. I'm using the Munroe book and the YouTube vids by Southwest Automatics.

I had *no* endplay on the input side when I started taking things apart. It wouldn't budge at all. This seems weird. The output shaft gave me 0.17mm endplay.

My front clutch pack has a huge amount of clearance. Didn't have a feeler gauge handy, but using a ruler I measure 4.5mm from top of pressure plate to upper part of waved snap ring. That's 177 thou! The front clutch pack has 11 springs against the piston, 4 frictions and 4 steels. The pressure plate is the thickest available. I've been told I can add an additional steel to the bottom of the stack, but that will still leave me with too big a clearance. What else can I do? Can I simply add an additional friction and steel, or would that change things?

The rear pack's clearance is also on the largish side, but is close to spec. I might leave it, unless an additional steel is recommended there as well.

Other than that I just wanted to know of any gotcha's I might want to look out for when putting everything back in the casing.

Hope the knowledgeable people here can give me a virtual hand.


dogwater 03-14-2012 07:01 AM

I don't really know these transmissions but how do you adjust your end play,with shims.If so you can flat sand them.Can you get thicker frictions and steels? If you can add another friction an steel an still be within clearance do it.I wouldn't want to have to much clearance in the clutch packs.You really need dial caliper and a feeler gage.Their this word called regret,keep saying it in your mind,then you wont have to rebuild it again.Try going to but you got to know how thick your frictions and steels are.Most of all dont be in a hurry.

4porte3 03-18-2012 02:59 PM

Finally got back to working on the car, and installed all the subassemblies back into the casing. Everything went in really smoothly and it's amazing how nicely everything fits together. Very slick. I fixed the clutch pack clearance issue by adding an extra steel on the bottom of the stack of frictions and steels. That brought it to 0.100", which is right in the middle of the factory specs.

We called it a day when we got as far as installing the valve body, because we were having problems getting the parking rod from the valve body into the parking sprag in the extension housing. Munroe shows it as being disconnected from the valve body, then re-attached afterwards, while the YouTube series from Southwest shows it being installed before the extension housing is in place. My extension housing is already in place...

So 4 questions:

1. Can the valve body be installed with the extension housing in place without removing the parking rod and installing it on it's own first? If so, how?

2. The band adjust screws are square. I wasn't able to find a socket that fit them, so I adjusted 'by feel' using a regular wrench. Is there a special socket for this screw so that I can use a torque wrench? I'd rather get it right now, even though they can be adjusted later.

3. End play on the input side - I started with the thickest fibre washer on the stator when I installed the oil pump, but when we screwed the oil pump in and tried to measure end play (by pulling/pushing on the input shaft with the casing lying on the bench) it wouldn't budge. Thinking it might simply be too tight, we removed the oil pump and replaced the fibre washer with a thinner one. This time we go just a tiny bit of movement, but it's still more or less immovable. I'm thinking that we're doing this wrong, and there must be a better and/or easier way to measure end play. There isn't a whole lot of metal to grab onto, everything is oily and slippery, and there is a lot of weight in the casing on the input shaft. Can anyone give a few pointers here? I want to get it right the first time!

4. I've asked several sources where I can find the little rubber grommets that fit in the shift linkage between the shifter in the car and the valve body gear selector, but no one seems to carry them. Does anyone here know where I might find them?

The plan is that next time I visit the car, we will actually manage to put the transmission back in the car and drive it out of the shop. Looking forward to that day!

mopardean 03-22-2012 06:15 AM

You should be able to install valve body with park rod attached, with extension housing on , just did mine

B series 79 03-25-2012 10:38 AM

The bolt heads for the band adjustment you need a 5/16 8 point socket which can be harder to locate.

for the input shaft end play its easiest to have the case sitting vertically supported so gravity isnt working against you.

The linkage bushings are readily available from mopar, dont have the pn handy but any worthwhile parts counter should know exactly what your looking for if you describe it to them. rockauto also has them, look under a 1992 Dodge truck, automatic transmission, shift linkage.

4porte3 03-27-2012 03:12 PM

Thanks very much!

I'll ask again at my parts places.

The socket size was exactly what I was looking for, will go pick one up today.

4porte3 03-28-2012 05:15 AM

Sent emails to 5-6 different places, no one has the grommets.

Does anyone know a place that actually carries them?

B series 79 03-28-2012 10:20 AM


ATP Part # TO41,ca...parttype,11004

4porte3 03-31-2012 03:20 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Alright, thanks for the link!

Got everything put together, tested, torqued and closed up today.

Looking forward to getting it back in the car and back out on the road!

Thanks so much for all the great help so far.

4porte3 04-04-2012 04:47 PM

Hit wall...
Got everything back in the car, connected, torqued down to spec and ready to test.

Turned the key one click, got check lights and buzzer as expected, turned another click to start engine and got...


It won't turn over in any shift position, let alone in P/N. All the check lights light up (which I don't recall from before), but the starter doesn't run.


Spent the next 4 hours trying to figure out the problem. Found after pulling the pan that the plastic wiper that meets the neutral starter switch makes contact in N, but not in P, so we adjusted the shifter to give proper contact in both positions. We also checked for continuity from the metal part of the wiper to ground (ok) as well as from the NSS to ground when in P or N (ok) and that the outer pins (this is a 3 pin NSS) show continuity when either the central plastic part is depressed (ok) or the central metal sensor is shorted to the housing (ok).

The starter motor is wired correctly (2 cables, one thick, one thin, on two connectors on the starter: one thick, one thin). Checked all ground straps on vehicle, they measure fine.

At this point I'm at a loss as to what the problem might be.

This is a 1980 Torqueflite with standard console shifter & linkage, 3 pin neutral safety switch. It all worked fine when I took it apart to rebuild it, and nothing's changed except that I replaced worn parts and an installed TransGo shift kit (no changes to the rooster comb or wiper though).


rick 427 04-05-2012 10:11 AM

check for pinched wires between motor and trans???

bigdog7373 08-03-2012 10:15 AM

Where is the battery ground connected to?

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