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Alsa "Killer Chrome" product review

99K views 43 replies 25 participants last post by  nicamarvin 
#1 ·
There have been a couple threads on HR.Com mentioning Alsa "Mirra Chrome" and Alsa "Killer Chrome". I took the plunge and ordered up a couple aerosol spray cans of Killer Chrome and their associated aerosol Speed Clear. And today I tested out the product.

First let me say that Alsa also produces a line of their chrome finishes for spray gun or air brush use. I have not used those products and my review is solely in regards to the aerosol cans.

Second, Killer Chrome is not an inexpensive product. At nearly $40 for a 12 oz can of spray, it is very pricey. On top of that there gloss black undercoat and their speed clear is also $40 per can. So you are looking at nearly $120 just to do a very few parts.

THE APPLICATION PROCESS:

I just did a fairly extensive write up on how you must prep the piece you want to chrome and then how to apply the chrome itself in my journal (see entry 354 and following).

THE RESULTS:

Here's a picture of the four shocks that I "chromed".



At first glance (and from a distance) they might look OK for a spray can application. But have a closer look.

Because of the nozzle configuration (simple spray can nozzle is what is shipped...NOT the special nozzle shown at their web site) the cans leak, dribble, and spray very erratically. The material comes out in spurts and as a result large drops of spray land on the workpiece and result in a very noticeable blotching effect as shown in these pictures.





I tried a number of different techniques, from very short bursts of spray to long flowing strokes and none made the slightest bit of difference. The paint comes out in spurts and in big sloppy drips as you can see from all the residue which runs down the side of the can.



I am convinced this is not human error but rather a design problem. The chrome mixture simply does not atomize properly. Also, this was not just a "one can fluke". I had ordered two cans of paint and they both sprayed identically bad and both produced the ugly blotching effect.

My second major observation regarding this product is that it will not provide anything close to a chrome like finish unless the underlying workpiece is mirror smooth. And I mean absolutely, mirror, smooth.

The Alsa site recommends spraying the chrome directly over a gloss coat of paint, either black or clear. They specifically state that the gloss coat should not be sanded because any sanding scratches will diminish the chrome effect. The problem is that most of us, outside of the real pros on this site, can not shoot an absolutely smooth final coal of gloss paint free of all orange peel or blemishes. Almost all of us have to color sand and buff to get a mirror finish in our paints. So the Alsa recommended application method simply does not work. The results are like the picture below...more of a dull aluminum finish rather than a chrome.



So unless you are a highly skilled painter you will have to disregard the Alsa recommendations and color sand your piece and then do a very meticulous job of buffing. Easy on a nice flat piece like the one in picture above, but quite a challenge for more complicated and intricate pieces like the shocks shown.

Also, be warned that although there are a number of web sites (as well as Alsa) that claim Killer Chrome can be sprayed effectively over any smooth surface no matter what color, I didn't find this to be the case as all. I shot it over my grill insert, which was gray (and VERY smooth) and got absolutely no chrome or reflective effect whatsoever as you can see in this picture.




One final note regarding coverage. Even if the produce spayed nicely and went on without blemishes, it should be noted that it doesn't go very far. I shot my four shocks, the spring mount shown in the picture above and my grill insert and it took approximately 1 1/2 cans of paint...or about $60 worth. Add to that another $60 of the Alsa clear and the gloss black undercoat and you are looking at $130 to $150.

RECOMMENDATION:

I would say Killer Chrome in the aerosol can is a very expensive product which provides very mediocre results. The cans that are shipped are NOT what is advertised. On there web site they show two part cans (product and hardener in the same can). The web site demo video even shows you how to activate the hardener in the can by punching a special tab on the bottom. They also claim on the web site to have special nozzles for proper atomization. But what is shipped is simply a one part product with a common aerosol nozzle.

As shipped the nozzles leak, drip and create a sloppy spray with large droplets that create blotches and discoloration in the finish. The product is very finicky to use and is clearly not something that goes on quick and easy. In fact, you will be lucky to get anything even close to an acceptable chrome-like finish without investing massive amounts of time, energy and money. I can't recommend this product for any hot rod related projects.
 
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#27 · (Edited)
mitmaks said:
Sounds too good to be true, I'd like to see results
its actualy true... :p but still too expencive at 599$

http://alsacorp.com/chromefx kit/index.html

I rather bild my own Silvering set up.... :pimp:

the secret of chrome paint(any chrome paint, cheap or expensive) its the prep...

check my work with NO NAME chrome paint, the secret lies in the prep...

first start with a good spray chrome paint(good reflectivity for the money)
Spray can chrome paint(NO NAME but good)


super gloss black base coat(single stage automotive Urethane)


chrome painted spoons after 1 day(needs 1 week of curing because its an enamel)




fully cured after 2 weeks




again the secret its on the prep..a good automotive SS urethane automotive base coat needs to be used...[/
 
#29 ·
cboy said:
Impressive looking pics.
thanks.. :welcome: it was all in the prep work..

cboy said:
My first question would be, is that an exterior paint and does it hold up to UV rays, rain and road wear?
no to both questions... this paint(NO Name) its an Enamel that takes for ever to dry and if clear coat it with normal urethane clear coats will dull the chrome effect, now the best way to clear coat it and keep some of that shine would be with a waterborne clear coat as it will not alter the aliminum particles like solvent clears will...

but that's why I am building a small silver nitrate kit(real electroless silver plating) that will not dull under 2k Clear coats.. :D
 
#30 ·
ok I was able to take some pics of a chrome painted spoon with a waterborne clear coating(industrial, not automotive)

as you will see the coating does in fact dull the color to a polished aluminum color instead of the chrome paint we all love, that´s why I am building my self a silver nitrate system as I have maxed what I believe its physicaly possible with chrome paint, so I need to move on to chemicals instead of paints..

here the pics..

you will know which one its the clear coat it on



thanks..
 
#32 ·
nicamarvin said:
...as you will see the coating does in fact dull the color to a polished aluminum color...
From the pictures it still looks better than the $200 Killer Chrome even though it is dulled a bit.

Thanks for posting this info and pics and thanks to RunninOnEmpty for the paint tip as well. Some day we just might find a workable alternative to get stuff looking like chrome. So I really like to see that folks are still experimenting and then sharing their findings.
 
#33 ·
Runnin'OnEmpty said:
Marvin, what industrial waterborne clear are you using?.
well its a nicaraguan floor poly urethane(waterbased)

Runnin'OnEmpty said:
You might want to try a waterborne product called 'Diamond Clear".
It's a single stage moisture cured urethane (MCU), and is VERY hard.
who makes it? just so people here give it a try sinse here in nicaragua we just dont have access to all the goodies you guys have back in the states... :(

cboy said:
From the pictures it still looks better than the $200 Killer Chrome even though it is dulled a bit..
yeah I know, but its a enamel and not too durable on its own(you can't rubb it too much like its shown in the alsa videos) but works good after cleared.. :welcome:

cboy said:
Thanks for posting this info and pics and thanks to RunninOnEmpty for the paint tip as well. .
yeah I am obsessed with chrome like alternatives and I have spent many hours trying to get the chrome paint as reflective as I can possible get I have spent many cans and countless of spoons in my quest and I think I have reach what is physicaly possible with chrome paint..

cboy said:
Some day we just might find a workable alternative to get stuff looking like chrome. So I really like to see that folks are still experimenting and then sharing their findings.
that its exactly what I am doing right now also, I knew that chrome paint had a limit and started to see the possibility of a home made Silver Nitrate(Real electroless plating of the most reflective metal on earth which its silver) to give a real chrome look to plastic parts(or none conductive parts)

here its my limited work so far I am very close to produce process anybody could reproduce with hardware store chemicals(except silver nitrate ofcourse, unless you are like me and make silver nitrate with nitric acid and scrap silver to make things even cheaper)

here its my home made silvering gun: cost about 30$ top


here its Alsa Chrome FX chroming gun: cost(walther pilot's price 1,400$)


and here its my home made silvering chemicals(different from the basic tollen's reagent but based on it basic principles)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKq39K3fmOY

here tollen's reagent just for reference
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUX_cpFWNso
 
#34 ·
here some test spoons

this is how I start, white spoons prep and then clear polyurethane, the final product should not BE sand it or polished, it must be glass like,


this was my first attemp at Clearing the Silvered Spoon, but afew things went wrong... :(


from left to right: Blue, the Bad Chrome attemp, Black Chrome, Copper and Green


Blue Close up


Green


Copper


Black Chrome


 
#37 ·
nicamarvin said:
well its a nicaraguan floor poly urethane(waterbased)


who makes it? just so people here give it a try sinse here in nicaragua we just dont have access to all the goodies you guys have back in the states... :(

]
Here's the MCU waterbased clearcoat I referred to:
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat.html

Marvin, if you're using a floor poly that's 1 part and waterbased,
chances are it's also an MCU. The problem with the floor coatings
is that they tend to yellow and fade, due to no UV inhibitors in the mix.
They're very hard however. (I too am interested in waterbased clears.)

Keep up the chrome work, and keep us informed.....
 
#38 · (Edited)
Runnin'OnEmpty said:
Here's the MCU waterbased clearcoat I referred to:
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat.html.....
I am afraid that its not a waterborne clear coat, I am afraid MCU can't be based on water, as they will cure on the can I guess their statement "This water clear high gloss clear coat" its to adress how clear its their clear coat... :smash:


Runnin'OnEmpty said:
The problem with the floor coatings
is that they tend to yellow and fade, due to no UV inhibitors in the mix......
Water based clear coats dont' yellow, but they do fade if they dont' have UV inhibitors which its the first thing I look on the can... :p

Runnin'OnEmpty said:
Keep up the chrome work, and keep us informed.....
thanks...

cyclopsblown34 said:
That's some very impressive work. Thanks for posting.
Thanks... :welcome:

AutoGear said:
dAMN...THATS AMAZING. Please do a formal write up for us on your system.
as soon as I have every piece of the big puzzel I will post it.. :thumbup:


AutoGear said:
This may not work for exterior stuff in terms of durability, but perhaps trim parts on dishboards etc would make good use of it
well it should be as good as 2k catalyzed Urethane clear coat paint job on bumpers... but for added durability I am planing using Clear powder coating on parts that can take the heat... :pimp:
 
#39 ·
nicamarvin said:
I am afraid that its not a waterborne clear coat, I am afraid MCU can't be based on water, as they will cure on the can I guess their statement "This water clear high gloss clear coat" its to adress how clear its their clear coat... :smash:
Marvin you are indeed correct, the DiamondFinish clear is not waterborne.
(KBS's tech sheet says to reduce with KBS#1 and clean-up with lacquer
thinner.) My mistake and thanks for correcting it. :)
 
#40 · (Edited)
Runnin'OnEmpty said:
Marvin you are indeed correct, the DiamondFinish clear is not waterborne.
(KBS's tech sheet says to reduce with KBS#1 and clean-up with lacquer
thinner.) My mistake and thanks for correcting it. :)
its ok buddy, that very strong coating could also be of use on my Spray on chrome progect as wheel rim coating... :welcome:

I believe the best coating to protect that shine on wheel reems its Clear Powder coat, second place would be a Moisture-cured Epoxy/Urethane clear coat with UV blockers, and in third place would be a 2k Urethane automotive clear coat wich its easier and cheaper alternative to the previous coatings but offers abit less durability...
 
#41 ·
Alsa Paint sucks period

I normally spray my cars with HOK paints, always had good results with them. So I have no Idea why I decide to try ALSA paints. On there web site all the Car are beautiful, but this is a scam. Ive been painting Cars since 1988 and the worst paint I ever use was ALSA Pearl Base Color. The coverage sucks. It took 5-qt with reducer to do a 75 vette. And it still was a bleed Thur. With No help from Alsa's Tech Dept. I Called 5 times and was suppose to recevie call backs. With No help. And I heard that there Chrome Paints are even worst. In the final, I sanded all that sh*# off, and repainted with House Of Kolor, Org/ using only two qts. And I was good. Don't take a chance with theses guys unless you have money to waste. Products suck, the there Business & Warehouse are full of *******s.
Mrbrucey....Bruce......Chicago :spank: :mad:
 
#42 ·
Just wanted to add to this discussion on the Killer Cans. I build plastic models and recently bought 7 cans of their Killer paint and clears plus the Killer Chrome. After almost a years worth of work on 2 of my models I then prepped them for paint according to their guidelines. Well, the paint went on nice other than wasting half of it because of the wide spray pattern. Then it was time for the chrome and as directed I applied it and it came out OK but nowhere near it should have been for the price. Here comes the horror story. I then applied the Lightling Clear which came out beautiful but 3 weeks later it started cracking like ice. On the other model, I had to buy more clear but they replaced the Lighting Clear with Mirra Clear. Talking to Alsa on the phone, their technician told me it was compatible with the paint I already had on the body which was their paint anyway. Applying a couple mist coats then a nice wet coat turned my model and paint into mush. Now I have to models that are ruined.

Now here's the good and most important part. After contacting Alsa, they said they would replace the clear for me but not the paint since their paint was good. What good is clear without paint and why would I chance putting their clear on some other brand of paint?

I have been painting for over 30 years hobby wise and have never had something like this happen. I'm not a master painter but I do know what I'm doing and I can tell you to stay away from their clear.

Oh, I almost forgot, after I had sprayed the Lightning Clear and waited a week I then masked off where I needed to spray the Killer Chrome with liquid masking and drafting tape. When removing the masking after applying the Chrome, some of the clear peeled off with the tape.

Here's a few pics of what happened...


Lightning clear after sitting for 3 weeks. Picture is looking through microscope


MirraClear over 3 week old paint.

Just wanted to let others know what may happen if they use this stuff.
 
#43 ·
MirraClear over 3 week old paint.

Just wanted to let others know what may happen if they use this stuff.
I have been painting, dealing with chrome like paints for years, you can say I´m obsessed with the thing, and this much is true, all chrome like paint on the market today will crack after some time..

I´m working on my own(made by myself) chrome like paint for custom paints, and so far it has none of the chrome like paint weakness, like it wont crack over time, it wont fade if left uncleared, the effect wont change if cleared..

here some pics so far...



 
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