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Old 10-02-2006, 11:48 PM
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alt not charging !!help!!

ok this is my latest problem. on my 87 formula i have a one wire alt system. i am currently using a 10 gauge wire from the alt to the dissconect switch. i have a 350 with a 4 barrel with underdrive pullies. the alt is a east coast eletronics one wire 140 amp.

my gauge since i have had this setup has given me a 14 volt reading it has allways been 12 volt.

as of late i have been having this problem it hasnt allways been there.

i was told to use a 8 gauge wire and to run it directly from the alt to the batt. and i was also told to take off the underdrive pullies and put the stock ones on that that is the problem.

i am looking for some advice, like may be i wired it up wrong or the outher things these guys told me could be my problem. any help would be great.

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Old 10-03-2006, 12:32 AM
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Doc here,

What alternator are you running? a type like the SI or the CS series GM alternator?

Does it have a Plug with 4 or 5 terminals on the side / Top?

If so, it may be wired wrong...and you have no regulator turning on..

This is a GM CS 140 Wiring..





IF yours differs , take it to auto zombie for a freebie test..see if it has ANY output at all..the diodes may have taken a dump..

Doc
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Old 10-03-2006, 06:43 AM
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thanks for all the info but i am running a one wire alt.
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:02 AM
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I always use a 8 guage wire and go from the alternator to the post on the starter solenoid where the battery cable hooks up. That is all the wireing that you need to do on a one wire alternator. My voltage meter reads key on engine off 12 volts....key on engine running 14 volts. That is normal. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
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Old 10-03-2006, 12:54 PM
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ok fellas lets try this again. lol i have a one wire alt on the car. i know that the one wire is to be ran to the batt or to a leat that the batt wire goes to. i have done all that and it was working fine for a while (i never had my gauge show me 14 volts) un till she stoped charging. so i got a new alt and put it in and used the car for a show. it was goos on the way up to the show the gauge only read 12 volts. on the way back it went down to 11 to 10 1/2 volts.

my real question should have been is my ungret drive pullies causing the problem or is it the wire that i ran for the alt too small.
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Old 10-03-2006, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac350
ok fellas lets try this again. lol i have a one wire alt on the car. i know that the one wire is to be ran to the batt or to a leat that the batt wire goes to. i have done all that and it was working fine for a while (i never had my gauge show me 14 volts) un till she stoped charging. so i got a new alt and put it in and used the car for a show. it was goos on the way up to the show the gauge only read 12 volts. on the way back it went down to 11 to 10 1/2 volts.

my real question should have been is my ungret drive pullies causing the problem or is it the wire that i ran for the alt too small.
I do not see where the size drive pulleys would have anything to do with it as engine speed is always varying anyway. A 8 or 10 guage wire should be adaquate ( I like to use 8). Either your alternator is no good or you have a bad battery and it caused the alternator to burn out. Or both. Your guage should read 12 volts when not charging and 13.8 to 14 volts when charging.
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Old 10-03-2006, 01:17 PM
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yes thats what i thaugtht but i keep hering different from outher people.

thanke you for the info

the alt is brand new and for the batt i got that at the beginning of last summer and it has been in the car all this time with out a problem. i just assumed that the alt went and i was just running on the batt, and thats why it got drained. when i charged it up the car worked great. i dont know i guess i just have to spend more money to see what is wrong with this damm car.
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Old 10-04-2006, 04:35 AM
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Doc here,

Get out your DVOM...

SET it for DCV, VX50 or higher...measure across the battery static..(not running) It should read around 11.50 to 11.95 ...

THEN start the car..measure again..It should read 13.98 to 14.4 if it is charging..(allow a little warm up time 3 or so minutes to replace the high current drain..from start mode) If you Don't see this It's not charging...

If you do, check the panel gauge..If it reads different, replace it ..It is in error..This will verify the gauge is correct or not..

Next, If no 14.4 present..Check your alternator ground, run a jumper from the case body back to the battery ground..Check your running voltage again..It should be 14.4...If not It's not charging..

Shut it off..then inspect the wire from the Battery to the alternator..8 gauge should be plenty for most systems..be sure ALL connections ARE tight, joints aren't cold or cracked..

While doing that Inspect the Fuse link you should have installed on that wire with the new alternator..be sure it has not opened..you should be able to place a DVOM set to ohms, WITH THE BATTERY NOT CONNECTED RX1 scale, Calibrated to 000, from the source current side (BATTERY CABLE) To the Device connection (Wire at the alternator not connected) It should read 000 OHMS..If it does the integrity of the wire and the run and link is whole..

Those being done...It can only be one thing..The Alternator is bad...Either the Rectifier Diode pack has blown out .. Or you have blown a hole through the Regulator Diode substrate..Or If really massive...burned up the windings..

Over-speeding an alternator AFTER a certain point Can internally damage the alternator..It wears parts, causes them to electrically work harder than need be..wears bearings Produces extra heat, and will shorten life..It's OK to over-speed them a bit..but if you go super radical on one you can have these problems...rare..but does happen.

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Old 10-04-2006, 11:44 AM
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Nobody seems to have addressed you need to run a wire from the ground terminal on the alternator to the engine or battery negative.

I have underdrive pulleys and only get low or no charging at low idle. As soon as I pull away the voltage goes up. Even factory, non modified systems will do this.

I found that by running a ground wire directly from the alternator body to the engine, I get higher voltages.

Your return path or negative is going thru the alternnato body, bracket and then to the engine. I will bet $$$ the bracket has corrosion, grease, slime and a host of other issues preventing a good charging path.

Every body seems to forget the negative side is equally as important as the positive side. Current needs a complete path. You can remove the bracket and bolts from the engine and use star washers between the bolts, bracket and alternator to help make a better longer lasting connection. The wire from the alternator body to the engine, where you can watch for corrosion or the battery is the bestest solution I have found.
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Old 10-04-2006, 11:58 AM
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wow i never thaught of that i will try it ang let you all know that i come up with.
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Old 10-04-2006, 06:21 PM
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Doc here,

Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Next, If no 14.4 present..Check your alternator ground, run a jumper from the case body back to the battery ground..Check your running voltage again..It should be 14.4...If not It's not charging..
That's what this test will show you in short order...which Is why I included it..

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