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Old 06-18-2013, 09:53 AM
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Alternates to the high priced Concealment kits for truck beds?

I'd really like to have a concealment kit for my 1938 Ford pickup. I'd like to hide the fuel filler under the wood completely and I would also like to mount the battery under the bed (far away from the fuel filler). I have been trying to think of a way I can use some standard type hinges to make a similar concept of product to what is below in the pictures and link. I donít care for the actuator part of the kit.
I have tried standard door hinges but the wood planks hit each other on the sides when you try and open one. I was thinking of trying some type cabinet hinges because it seems like cabinet hinges come in so many different forms that I might find something that would work.
Another place to look for hinges is: McMaster-Carr
With all the do it yourselfers on this website I thought I would ask. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to product, does anyone know who makes this kit? Maybe I can ask the manufacturer to sell me only the hinges?:
https://www.streetrodhq.com/detail/1...lment_Kit.html

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Old 06-18-2013, 10:23 AM
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s/s piano hinge hid the hinge pin area under the wood bed chrome strap than normally has the wood in that lip
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:54 PM
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you could use standard 60mm full overlay cabinet door hinges,
full overlay is used where the boards are butted together as in your bed
you would need to drill a shallow 60mm hole in the back of the board
they would probably rust eventually but they are cheap and easy to replace
this is $6 at homedepot, you would probably need 4 for a 6 ft bed board



concealed gas doors in the bed look nice, if you haul it on a trailer or don't drive it
met a guy on the power tour last year who had to unload his bed every time to fuel his truck

battery under the truck is ok if you have a means to disconnect it and a jump point under the hood
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Old 06-18-2013, 01:28 PM
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I was scrolling thru another thread and saw a post of yours and your "last photo" just about floored me. I just had to deal with a set of hinges like that for my son, those look like the same brand even! But I know they aren't because his were some off the wall brand. Took me forever to find the exact ones, had them sent directly to him and he bolted them on in minutes.

Sorry for the highjack, it just cracked me up seeing that photo.

Brian
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Old 06-18-2013, 05:53 PM
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now where is that change your last photo thread
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadslife View Post
s/s piano hinge hid the hinge pin area under the wood bed chrome strap than normally has the wood in that lip
I will look into the Piano hinge. Why do you think the Piano hinge will work for what I am trying to accomplish?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre View Post
you could use standard 60mm full overlay cabinet door hinges,
full overlay is used where the boards are butted together as in your bed
you would need to drill a shallow 60mm hole in the back of the board
they would probably rust eventually but they are cheap and easy to replace
this is $6 at homedepot, you would probably need 4 for a 6 ft bed board



concealed gas doors in the bed look nice, if you haul it on a trailer or don't drive it
met a guy on the power tour last year who had to unload his bed every time to fuel his truck

battery under the truck is ok if you have a means to disconnect it and a jump point under the hood
This is the exact hinge I was considering to use. What stopped me was this:
This hinge is designed to be mounted in a 90degree position. That means that the portion of the hinge on the right side of your picture needs to go into the "Thickness" of the wood board. So you have that bucket shape that needs to have a cutout to sit inside and flush with the wood board.

I need to measure one of those hinges to know what long x wide that piece of the hinge is, but I believe it is larger than 1-1.5" which is the thickness of the wood I was going to use for the bed.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:43 AM
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those hinges are designed to fit in 3/4'' thick doors
truck bed wood is typically also 3/4'' thick
google ''full overlay cabinet door hinge'' and you will find all the information on these type hinges

a piano hinge won't work for what you need.
a piano hinge is just a long standard hinge.
you would see the whole hinge pivot and would need 1/4'' to 3/8 gap on the to clear the closing side.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogre View Post
those hinges are designed to fit in 3/4'' thick doors
truck bed wood is typically also 3/4'' thick
google ''full overlay cabinet door hinge'' and you will find all the information on these type hinges

a piano hinge won't work for what you need.
a piano hinge is just a long standard hinge.
you would see the whole hinge pivot and would need 1/4'' to 3/8 gap on the to clear the closing side.
OGRE
have you done this before with success?

The current bed wood I am replacing is 1" thick.
I don't mind going to a thinner piece then using 1/4" thick piece as a shim. I was considering on doing this anyways.

There are so many different types of Overlay Hinges. What are the specs. that I should look for?
Here is another type that doesn't getting buried into the wood plank
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Racing View Post
OGRE
have you done this before with success?
on wood cabinets? yes
on a truck bed? no.
i wouldn't put a filler in the bed for reasons stated.
my filler is in the fender, i should have put in the top of the fender. i didn't think of how low my truk would be

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Old 06-21-2013, 09:02 AM
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Im usually an idiot but, why dont you use a flush mount cap (either the street rod/ custom bike ones or a stainless one from a boat tank) and mount it in the wood floor instead of making a trap door?

If you want to use an overlay hinge; and are worried about rust, 'Sugatsune' makes hinges for offshore boat interiors. I don't know if its a completely stainless hinge, but I do know they're used in boats and some parts of it ARE s/s. I think we used to get them for like $12 at a single piece price. And I believe, but Im not 100% that this is a no bore hinge, meaning no pocket, or minimal pocket. I can't swear to that part however. Note that these were metric in manufacture. We went to retro-fit them in something and didn't realize that part. My net-nanny software won't let me open a page, but I bet you can find dims for them online

I saw a 'trap door' in a bed that was spring assisted once; you pushed down on the 'door' portion and it popped up. His was NOT hinged, it was a cover that you picked up and set aside. The owner was a cabinet maker and the wood bed was exquisite. The panel was absolutely invisible due to the joinery around it. I remember my dad asking him about it and he said he devised all the joinery locations to help camouflage the joint. I kind of like the hidden panel idea from a security standpoint. You could use that idea to hide all kinds of stuff, like a master disconnect switch or battery. Also think about going to one of the smaller batteries; less handiwork involved in hiding it, and the Optima batteries that are (were?) made in Mexico had been getting a high return rate as a marina I used to work at. Do use a 'block' near your engine to be able to jump things however as noted previously

Last edited by AutoGear; 06-21-2013 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:18 AM
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http://www.downwindmarine.com/Hinges-p-1-c-106.html

All kinds of nifty hinges, locks, caps, toggles etc etc are used in boats. Stainless, cast brass, nickel, and chromed brass or chromed zinc, and plastic.

304 stainless can still rust and discolor and is one of the most common types of stainless; its also referred to as 18/8 and is magnetic.
316 stainless is NON magnetic (well for most household magnets, no idea about a really powerful magnet) and is highly rust resistant. That is until you break down the outer layer (chromium dioxide??) in which case it will rust. By polishing the surface you can let the passive layer reform and it becomes rust resistant again.

We had a run in with a saltwater boat that had stainless thru-hull fittings someone used cheaper 304 ends on the thru-hulls and once saltwater went to the party, it was pretty rough looking the next season. We replaced with 316 throughout and it got rusty again, but not nearly as bad. Reason I was told was that we didn't clean with acid and buff properly after cutting the pieces to fit. Everything after that was labeled "for 316 ONLY"

Crap I'm gonna give away all my tricks

Last edited by AutoGear; 06-21-2013 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:15 PM
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Now if you wanted to do something different instead of cutting a square door that's hinged, how about a round door thats lifted by a linear actuator. You could make it so once raised the door could be rotated out of the way of the nozzle. Anybody can hinge a door. Why not be different?

http://www.servocity.com/html/12v_li...ctuators.html\

BB
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Old 06-22-2013, 01:59 PM
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I was recently considering on making a bracket or mounting point under the bed where I can mount one end of a "Lid Support" then mount the other end of the Lid Support to the plank of the wood.

Ill see I will let you guys know.
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:52 PM
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You can always put a fuel door like I did in my truck years ago.







Just a thought.

Brian
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:28 AM
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My girlfriends Rav-4 has a flush mount filler door; with a little handle next to her seat that releases it. No dent for your finger, and it wont mar the lines of the vehicle as much.
What about one of the old license plate mounted filler doors from the 70s, just turn it 90 degrees and use the mechanism to operate your 'hatch'
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