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  #211 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2009, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
( One trip to Charlotte NC GoodGuys event in 2007 ... about 275 miles round trip ). That was with the Lizard Skin sprayed and no DynaMat
Deuce,

Great project and great results!

Does the above mean that the after the 275 mile trip with just LS, you felt that it needed more insulation and sound deadener, so you added the DynaMat?

Did you also use jute or other underlayment (in addition to DynaMat) under the carpet?

Thanks for the info.

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  #212 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2009, 08:22 AM
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Lizard skin

We drove our 28 almost a year before we did the glass and interior. during that time we added the home made micro sphere/latex coating. The difference was amazing. Added fat mat during interior stage, because it needed it. Very quiet now for a hot rod.
Was it absolutely necessary? Would dynamat work as well without it? How much did it help? Can't say. But for the cheap price of the home brew (around $25 a gallon as I recall) and fat mat being half price of dyna mat, this is exactly what I wanted. Next car will get the same deal.
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  #213 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2009, 05:11 PM
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Oldguy829

Great build on the '28! Amazing interior. I hadn't seen the Fat Mat before, looks interesting.
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  #214 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2010, 03:50 PM
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any updates

For those of you who used the various forms of Alternative solutions to Lizardskin,do you have any updates as to the usefullness,durability,ect of the alternatives that were discussed and tried on the different cars? I am getting ready to work on my 55 Chevy Beauville wagon and have read through the entire thread. I have a couple of pails of Lizardskin coming through the mail as I type and would like to figure out as to whether I am going to use it on my 55 or the 52 Chevy 3100 AD truck I am just about finished with.
I am sorry to use this for my 1st post but after reading through the whole thread of 15 pgs,I couldn't resist asking. Thanks Jim
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  #215 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2010, 04:49 PM
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Jim, "funny you should ask" ...as they say. Sorry I don't have any decibel worthy info but I just did the interior of my f'glass '32 body 2 days ago. I had already purchased 2 bags of the micro spheres from Wicks a couple of years ago.
I bought a gallon of Home Depot exterior latex paint and had it tinted a light gray, poured about 3/4 into a big pail and CAREFULLY added 1 bag of spheres a little at a time while a stirred (wearing a respirator) with a paint stick. I finally came up with a smooth concoction resembling something like an ugly cake batter. I used a 2" and 4" brush to get behind the wood and steel tubing inner structure but then used a 6" roller for the ceiling and floor.

I applied 3 coats, letting it dry about 30 mins. in-between. It took me about 4 hours and if nothing else it sure looks a lot nicer. The "knock" test on the outside gives a dull thud instead of the echoing clank (for lack of a better adjective). VERY happy with outcome, for my time and about $40 I will do it again on the next body. good luck with your project....Dave
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  #216 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2010, 06:42 PM
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by the time this thread got started I was already into assembly and especially the dash. I thought about the alternative that '302..' came up with a while back but I was too far along to do much about it. I did try a cursory test of water based paint on the inside of the car but it didn't stick very well. Further testing of some other paints aswell also didn't work very well. I think there was some mold release or wax on the body that I really did not get off. Along the way I did a bit of glass work and it too did not stick very well so my suspicions are confirmed.

I did get some of the microballons and used them on a big model airplane.

I've added some double coated insulation and carpet that have been pretty effective so far. I'm sure that the micro balloon stuff will also help.

Nice thought on the safety aspect of using the microballoons. This is very important.

Let us know how everything works out.
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  #217 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2010, 09:54 AM
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Performance updates

After three years the $10 microballoon and $10 latex barn paint insulation is performing admirably in my car.

3M Super 77 spray adhesive failed to hold the Reflectix "bubble wrap" insulation. Luckily I only used it in one door before switching to Westech WT-HS13

I watched a NatGeo episode of Ultimate Factories and learned that Rolls Royce automobiles use aluminum foil covered bitumen (asphalt) for sound deadening. I am quite pleased that my low buck '55 Chevy uses the same thing (Peel N Seal)
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  #218 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2010, 04:47 PM
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I have Peel-N-Seal, three layers of padding- carpet on all metal areas of the floor and P&S inside the doors and on the headliner. Everything works as it is supposed to, BUT guess what when it is 107* outside and the Black truck has set in the sun (windows down) for a few hours, the inside cab temp is 125*+ It takes about 7 to 10 miles for the A/C to bring the metal in the cab back down to a comfortable limit, with the air blowing 38-40* out of the vents.

No doubt everything is working as expected but it is still HOT, but it is a dry heat !!!

I am just glad I did not spend the big bucks on the name brand material!!
What I notice the most is at highway speeds 70mph is all the wind noise but I like the A/C so we must close the windows closed and all this Insulation does not do much for the wind noise, guess can't have it all with a 50+ year old truck !!
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  #219 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2010, 07:03 AM
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solidaxel reminded me that I forgot to mention an important performance improvement. I have a couple of friend's who drive '56 Chevies. The interior noise level in their uninsulated shoeboxes is HUGE compared to my car. The insulating and sound deadening is the biggest "bang for the buck" deal on the car.

I do get a little wind whistle from the vent windows, but 50 year old cars are definitely a bit "tighter" than trucks of the same vintage.
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  #220 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2010, 10:00 AM
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my alt to lizard skin............

Hi,check out my post how i did it. on page 11,post # 159
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  #221 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2010, 03:21 PM
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Wicks "Glass" balloons vs. Hy-tech ceramic microspheres

I've been reading this thread for about an hour. I'm at work so it's not cool but I'm addicted and can't quit.

I went to Wicks and Hy-tech and it appears that there are two different products. Wicks sells Glass balloons, Hy-tech sells ceramic Microspheres. It would seem to me that the ceramic material would be a better insulator for heat as used in the space shuttle.

Am I missing something?

I don't have time to read all 15 pages of posts right now, I'd like to keep my job, but has anyone mixed Hy-tech's product with car paint or primer? I'd feel better painting that on my car than water based latex.

Excellent thread and thanks to everyone who has taken their time to contribute.
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  #222 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2010, 09:01 PM
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Glass balloons and micro ceramic spheres are the same thing.

Vince
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  #223 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2010, 06:00 AM
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RE; the glass beads, we use three different types between, epoxy and 2K primers all different blends, there are of course different strengths, like Zircona, ceramic and plastic and glass and none of those issues are important, with what you bench chemists are trying to do here.

I would look for the smallest size, as I think that would help the application you are using it for as far as insulation and strength, strength not of real importance here, and use more of the small instead of less of the larger size.

The perfect formula might be a 50% mix of large and small.

I'm not sure what is available size wise from the places you are talking about but these come in all different sizes from the manufacturers that make these Nano items.
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  #224 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2010, 07:38 AM
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You are correct Barry. In the aircraft homebuilder realm the micro balloons are used as filler only to make fillets and such and have no strength value. A side benefit of using them is their insulating properties and as you have pointed out regardless of what they are made of it is the trapped air within the balloon that is the insulating property.

Vince
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  #225 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2010, 05:37 AM
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Vince is right, the air is the key.

For maximum value for heat or sound, the trick would be mixing of sizes so that here is as little as air as possible BETWEEN the beads, you want all the air inside the beads.

You could use a cheap microscope to do this and play with the mixture, like 50% smallest, 25% medium and 25% large, mix them up and adjust volume to make the mixture as tight as possible.

Just a thought.

Need help, if someone has different sizes, all I would need is an ounce of each and we have the electronic microscopes that would allow me to give you a rough Idea on percentages you might want.
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