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  #316 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2013, 08:27 AM
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I'm sure nobody has, but give it a try. What do you have to lose? At worst it doesn't work, but if it quiets the car down even a little, it will be worth it.

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  #317 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2013, 10:37 AM
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test

do one test panel first using outdoor latex. or alkyd enamel better .at menards for 24 bucks a gallon. keep us posted on test
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  #318 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2013, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herb58 View Post
do one test panel first using outdoor latex. or alkyd enamel better .at menards for 24 bucks a gallon. keep us posted on test
I'm thinking of using Latex just for ease of cleanup. I'm thinking this will make a mess.
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  #319 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2013, 03:15 PM
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Not that old of thread so I'm hoping people area still paying attention to it.

Was interested in finding out what the results were if you used some other paint instead of house latex. Our fab shop has a really nice primer they put on industrial duct work that I am planning on using inside my body.

I'm also a little confused why you would put the home made lizard skin over Dynamat? Don't they both do the same thing?
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  #320 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2013, 05:50 PM
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The top ten reasons are: COST.

Those insulating glass microspheres mentioned can be added to any paint.
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  #321 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2013, 08:51 PM
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Following up on my post, I did my deck lid on my Chrysler today.

I mixed the micro-balloons I got from Wicks with a quart of Rustoleam latex paint. The mixture was thick, but still pourable. I removed the deck lid and striped out the lock etc. and taped all the openings except one access hole near the latch and the two holes where the hinges go in.

I poured the mixture in the three holes, and after sealing them with more tape, I then left it standing on each of its sides for a few minutes. As it dried, I left it in each position a little longer, spending most of its time laying face down.

When I was done, I removed the tape and propped it up on saw horses face up and let it drip for a while. To my surprise, not a lot of paint dripped out.

Got it cleaned up and put it back on the car later. First thing I noticed was the trunk closed with a much less "tinny" sound. When you knock on the sheet metal, it almost sounds like knocking on fibreglass, rather than the steel panel.

So.... I'd say it worked. If I were to do it again, I would mix up more than a quart of paint, but that's the only thing I would do different.
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  #322 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 07:51 AM
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Is the Lizard Skin mixture for sound reduction or temperature reduction?
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  #323 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2013, 07:54 AM
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What about bed liner? Would it help with sound deadening?
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  #324 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2014, 03:53 PM
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Watching this thread...the lizard product is way overpriced so I always avoided it.
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  #325 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2014, 05:55 PM
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What about bed liner? Would it help with sound deadening?
Not a good alternative as it has very low heat dissipation and dries way too hard.

Vince
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  #326 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2014, 11:11 AM
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This thread brought me to your great forum here. I am very excited as this seems to be EXACTLY what I was looking for! Not only that, but I clicked on ONE other thread which was highlighted at the bottom of one page and it solved another problem that I've been wrestling with for a while. I'm a Jeep guy, not a hot rodder (someday!), but I've exhausted the off road forums for a few dilemmas I've got... I can't wait to see how many other problems I can solve searching around here!

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Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
That is what I was thinking also .the bubble wrap will probably melt and I would keep a fire extinguisher close by as latex paint is flammable as is the bubble wrap.

the fumes from hot latex could be toxic also ,,,I would check before putting it under hood next to extreme heat. Just saying
This is one of my biggest concerns with many of these products. Not just that they're flammable, but many bedliners and asphalt-based products are VERY hard to put out once they start burning. I was relieved to see this post (which should be added to the wiki), but I will be doing my own test as well...
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Originally Posted by Hi Rise View Post
...One of the nice things about it as it will not burn. I sprayed 3 layers on a test panel. Let it cure, scraped some off held a match to it. The flames just dies out immediately It will not support combustion.
...
Brian.
Many thanks to Vince and all those who contributed here!
Billy
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  #327 (permalink)  
Old Yesterday, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by JeepFreak21 View Post

Many thanks to Vince and all those who contributed here!
Billy
The first post is from 12-01-2006 and it's been active ever since.

I use a high solids latex paint, the cheapest of which turns out to be white ceiling paint, adding one quart of the ceramic microspheres to one gallon of paint. To spray it, I use a rented airless sprayer from Home Depot with the filters removed (there's one in the gun itself that people forget about) and a .025 tip. Of course, the spheres can be added to any paint and can also be brushed or rolled on.

I've also used process this to paint the interior walls and ceiling of my shop, my attic at home and the exterior of my business. It definitely is worth the effort.
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