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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 12:04 PM
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WOW!! Talk about timely tech I have been looking for away to cool down the interior of my hybrid Jeep pick up. For some reason dual 3 inch exhaust pipes meeting right under the cab and leaving as a single 3.5 tend to make it warm enough to almost boil water if left on the floor board. I was planning on having to tuff out another wheeling season without insulation due to cost but you'll have turned me on to several alternatives to the high dollar route.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 12:32 PM
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bigun,
use a shield....not insulation for exhaust pipes heat...keep the hi temp heat away from the floors or they will rust

go to a local aluminum screen porch shop, about $2 for a big piece of aluminum sheet out of his scrap barrel

look at the simple but totally effective "heat shield" above the (1400*) catalytic convertor on your wifes car.....it's just a flat piece with a air gap up to the floor and a air gap down to the convertor......maybe one hour with snips and sheetmetal screws to make one for your jeep= 90% effective

make it big enough so the edges are away from the very hi heat.......stick it up to the floor with silicone....yur done
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red65mustang
bigun,
use a shield....not insulation for exhaust pipes heat...keep the hi temp heat away from the floors or they will rust

go to a local aluminum screen porch shop, about $2 for a big piece of aluminum sheet out of his scrap barrel

look at the simple but totally effective "heat shield" above the (1400*) catalytic convertor on your wifes car.....it's just a flat piece with a air gap up to the floor and a air gap down to the convertor......maybe one hour with snips and sheetmetal screws to make one for your jeep= 90% effective

make it big enough so the edges are away from the very hi heat.......stick it up to the floor with silicone....yur done
WE already done that LOL it still hot as H*** in there LOL No wife either! This is a rock crawler/trail truck so exhaust is up as high i the frame as we could get it. Truck also runs on propane I don't know if that makes the exhaust hotter or not. I do know that a gallon of water set on the floors between the seats will get hot enough going down the hwy that it is undrinkable.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 03:05 PM
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bigun'

add a second layer of sheet metal with a gap to the first sheet(= fireplace chimney pipe)...and/or make the shield much bigger and perforate the heck out of the extra area (= dirt bike heat shield), better yet, "z" fold the extra area and perforate that(= a heat sink)

moving so slow rock crawlin, there is not enough cfm movement in contact with the shield sq in area you made to wick away the radiant heat

header wrap would get shredded in no time so for cheap and easy to replace try wrinkling up some heavy duty baking foil from the kitchen, wrap that pretty tight on the pipes shiny side down, a piece of solid copper telephone wire (2 pairs wires) makes a great twist tie to secure it

Last edited by red65mustang; 02-03-2007 at 04:21 PM.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2007, 04:48 PM
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It gets that hot running down the road at 80 MPH!! When we are crawling I am to busy to notice heat. I'll have to talk to my buddy to see if he thinks we can add more shielding of course if i got the tow truck built I wouldn't have to drive it every where LOL

Last edited by bigun; 02-03-2007 at 11:18 PM.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2007, 07:08 AM
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bigun
"somethin' ain't kosher".....

one more try, make the shield a one piece that extends up and over the tranny =tranny generates alot of heat, you want the most temp differential (cooler) possible to wick away the heat in the floor sheet metal.....perforate heck out of the metal over the tranny (dirt bike shield)

in your case, bite the bullet and send the pipes off to be ceramic coated and improve the shields?
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2007, 08:56 AM
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Well as you can tell this is an on going project things change all the time. Right now the tranny is a T18 manual, but as soon as I can afford all the parts I'll be putting in a 727 with a doubler transfer case setup. When this happens the exhaust will have to be reworked since the front drive shaft will have to switch sides. My buddy and ace fabricator had seen the lizard skin stuff in a Summit catalog which is why I was interested in this thread. Right now it is too cold to mess with the truck and the next run will be the annual FSJ invasion of Ouray Co. in July so we have time to try some more shielding plus we have been collecting all the bits and pieces to put A/C in which in it self is kinda funny since Craig is a minimalist if it don't help the performance of the rig he doesn't need it, it was his idea to install the A/C unit. Hmm I think he got a bit warm last year!! Thanks for the ideas I'll let you know how it all works out. Then I get to start on my 53 L110 Binder
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2007, 09:47 AM
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LOL....adding the AC is cheating.....he is engineering around the problem....bet the compressor never turns off from what you have described!

what can I say...."an ounce of shielding is worth a pound of insulation when dealing with 700* exhaust pipes...."
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2007, 12:15 PM
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Well like I said it is an on going project the original build took us around a month of nights and week ends it had only been mobile 2 days before it made it's first run to Ouray in 2005! We'll definitely be looking into more shielding as soon as it warms up enough to work on it.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2007, 12:27 PM
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You not only want shielding and insulation underneath - the same spray on insulation can be used inside the tub to effectively double the insulating value.

The issue for me is whether or not the Microshperes will mix with an automotive brand - high heat resistent paint...if it did you would be able to keep the mil thickness down in the carrier/paint application as opposed to using the spheres in a "Latex" paint application, which would be thicker and arguably less heat resistent.
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2007, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo_The_Dog
The issue for me is whether or not the Microshperes will mix with an automotive brand - high heat resistent paint...if it did you would be able to keep the mil thickness down in the carrier/paint application as opposed to using the spheres in a "Latex" paint application, which would be thicker and arguably less heat resistent.
That would not be a problem, as I stated earlier in the thread we in the radio control hobby routinely mix the micro spheres with epoxy and polyester resin. The spheres are phenolic the only thing that can damage them is aggressive mixing which can crush them. They can be mixed with any kind of coating.

Vince
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 02-05-2007, 08:23 AM
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Vince, any chance you can do some crude at home testing for burst temp on just the spheres?

hair dryer=140
toaster oven=140 to 400?

we may all be surprised "where" they can be used....if they don't blow up like a balloon (phenolic has almost no stretch=popcorn)
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 04-29-2007, 08:12 PM
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any updates and the formula you used please
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:54 AM
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Formula update

I am still using the latex mixture as I want the sound control that a thick coating provides to inside sheet metal. I had a need to use the plasma cutter on some sheet metal that I had already coated. There was no problem with the cutting, just a little scorched latex on the inside. The last formula I used was a dollar qt of latex from Lowes mistake bin and a gallon of spheres. It came out about as thick as peanut butter. I used some on the transmission cover of my F-100. I thinned it a little with with less that a pint for use on the inside firewall. I put the thick stuff on with a 2" brush and the thinner stuff can be brushed or rolled depending on the flatness of the sheet metal. My goal is to provide a coating as thick as a credit card.
I am pleased with my temperature testing and sound control.
I will still add some Dynomat and other insulation to the inside, but I couldn't pass up such a cheap experiment.
I believe it to be worth-while.
Heartbeat
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2007, 07:43 AM
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I should post an update as well.

I sprayed my 68 camaro with a mixture of the microspheres from Wick's Aircraft supply and the Kool-Seal elastomeric roof coating as the binder.

Used a regular undercoating gun to spray and it did fine, although it made the usual "mess" that these guns do. Oh well. water cleanup is nice. I can't really say what the concentration was - I mixed until I "liked" it. Did have to add a good bit of water to thin the roof coating enough so that it would mix. Those microspheres are cool! Look like powder, pour and stir like liquid.

I sprayed the inside of the door skins and it made a big difference in panel resonance. Big difference.

As far as heat goes, I sprayed the back half of the car (rear seat pan and back, inside rear quarters, etc.) and I can still feel a little heat coming through when I touch with my hand, so it's not a end all for heat control (nothing is I suppose). I would still plan on putting some of the insulation down in area that will see the most heat, just for good measure if anything.

The whole car did quiet down a good bit, but I also dampened a lot of the panels with the Peel & Seal product from Lowe's (which I think IS a great alternative to Dynamat, although it may not work quite as well, dunno - but you can't beat the price and it installs easily - use your heat gun.). Hard to say how much exactly the microspheres and elastomeric contributed to noise loss, but I think it's part of the whole solution anyway.

I will say the car is much more fun to drive now that I can hear whomever may be in the passenger seating - or the guy next to me saying 1 , 2, 3, go!
Not that I would know anything about that.

Bottom line: for the money you can't beat it. If you don't want to spring for Lizard Skin and are willing to tinker a bit yourself, this would be a good alternative. Hey, why not? Stuff is lightweight as heck, so there's not really a penalty that I can think of. The only thing would be that perhaps you need to spray it on an already primer or painted surface. Don't know if I would trust the coating to stick to bare steel or not. Anyone else care to comment on that?
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