[302 Z28]

[QUOTE=bentwings]Is the foil/jute insulation something you got at Home Depot?? QUOTE]

No, mine came from the supplier of my upholstery material. I have not seen anything like it in any local home improvement store. It is actually hard to cut with a pair of good scissors.

Update: Here is a picture of the foil faced insulation i am using. It was purchased from Sunbelt Fabrics in Dallas Texas and came in a roll about 60" wide.If you pull it apart it has some sort of mesh embedded in it and that is hard to cut. The fibers look like fiberglass but are much more tough some sort of ceramic maybe.


Vince

[38Dodgebiz]

So I went ahead and did this on my '38 Dodge - I'm way overdue on my project update.

After stripping the floor clean, I coated the steel floor with a brushed coat of POR15 I had left over from another project.

After drying a day or two, I seam sealed all the seams in the floor and firewall areas with an automotive seam and joint sealer.

I let this set up another day or two and then sprayed the alchohol based zinser primer on. The gal at Home Depot tinted the primer and the Henry's elastomeric roofing compound for me (blue).

I ended up mixing to a ratio of about 2.5 gallons of elastomeric compound (Henry's) to 2 gallons of microspheres. After seeing how thick the mixture was, I decided to roll it on which worked very well. I used a brush for tight spots and a smaller roller where I could fit it inside the doors. I spent several days applying a number of coats - probably about 5 coats which is likely more than required. I have since let the concoction sit a few weeks and I am now beginning to wire the car.

The result is a tough, almost bedliner type of coating that has taken the "ring" out of the car when you tap on the steel. My '38 Dodge is all steel. I even coated the inside of the roof, doors, etc... Basically, anywhere I could fit the roller or a brush I applied the material and the amount I mixed was enough for any medium to large interior. I will probably half the recipe for my other project (a '69 vette coupe).

I still plan to use additional insulation (peel and stick) and expect the ride to be cool and quiet (except for my exhaust).

I'll estimate the total cost for the project at about $125 which included an extra 5 gal. bucket, rollers/frames, a cheap brush, 2 tubes of seam sealer, 1 quart of Zinser (alchohol based), 2 gallons of microsheres from Wickes and 5 gal. of Henry Elastomeric roof sealer. I only used half of the Henry's, so I have some material left over for the next project.

Here are some pics:







[SIZE="4"]After priming with Zinser - I sprayed this and used close to a full quart - I made cardboard cutouts to put in all the windows before spraying[/SIZE]



[SIZE="4"]The materials for the "Homemede Lizard Skin" - I discarded the rollers/frames and bucket at the end of the job [/SIZE]



[SIZE="4"]Mixing - take your time - please wear a mask!!! I still have a way to go at this point - should be uniform in consitency and color when ready - like a thick pancake batter [/SIZE]



[SIZE="4"]after about 3 coats - I kept going over and over the floor and firewall where much of the thermal benefit will be realized[/SIZE]

[302 Z28]

Congrats, looks good. Tip: when you go on with the Peal-N-Seal use some additional contact cement. Try and find some DAP Landau top adhesive, it holds like mad. I have found that on vertical or overhead surfaces the adhesive on the back of the Peal-N-Seal will let go over time.

Vince

[38Dodgebiz]

Originally Posted by 302 Z28

Congrats, looks good. Tip: when you go on with the Peal-N-Seal use some additional contact cement. Try and find some DAP Landau top adhesive, it holds like mad. I have found that on vertical or overhead surfaces the adhesive on the back of the Peal-N-Seal will let go over time.

Vince

Thanks Vince - this was a fun project, and I'm glad I took my time. It really looks a lot better "in person" as it's hard to capture the real changes with photos. I put another couple coats on since the last photo in my series was taken. I appreciate the tip on the adhesive - I'll take you up on that one.

I made some changes in the interior behind the "seating area" for my battery to mount in and had to cut through a small section of the coating. It's remarkably durable. I'm really impressed with the end result and feel this was an excellent "recipe".

Thanks again, Tom

[302 Z28]

Originally Posted by 38Dodgebiz

I made some changes in the interior behind the "seating area" for my battery to mount in and had to cut through a small section of the coating. It's remarkably durable. I'm really impressed with the end result and feel this was an excellent "recipe".

Thanks again, Tom

Absolutely, and saved you a ton of money vs the name brand.

Vince

[59 wagon man]

i was in a homo depot today and saw a product in the roofing section called a siliconized elastomeric peel and stick kinda thing any one use this kinda thing? i will try and pick up a roll tomm

[59 wagon man]

also one question any idea once you mix the spheres into the paint what would a shelf life kinda time frame be?

[Ed ke6bnl]

Originally Posted by 59 wagon man

i was in a homo depot today and saw a product in the roofing section called a siliconized esoteric peel and stick kinda thing any one use this kinda thing? i will try and pick up a roll tomm

I got that stuff for $5 per roll and used it with obviously good results. what I did is heat it with a torch and it got real tacky and slapped it on the inside of the doors and it was a great improvement have not had the panel off to see if it has held but seems very well adhered to . Ed ke6bnl

[302 Z28]

Originally Posted by 59 wagon man

also one question any idea once you mix the spheres into the paint what would a shelf life kinda time frame be?

The spheres do not affect the paint, so as long as the paint remains pliable it's OK to use.

Vince

[HUH?]

Here is a LINK to a message board discussion I started about low cost, easily obtained
insulation and sound deadener to compliment the low buck lizardskin.

Dave

[302 Z28]

Originally Posted by HUH?

Here is a LINK to a message board discussion I started about low cost, easily obtained
insulation and sound deadener to compliment the low buck lizardskin.

Dave

Some good information, but I vehemently disagree with your evaluation of 3M's #77 as an outstanding adhesive. Over time in high heat applications it WILL come loose. Read the directions, it says for temporary adhesion apply to one surface, for better adhesion apply to both surfaces...no thank you . 3M has far better rattle can adhesives available to be using #77 which is basically an arts and craft glue.

Vince

[bentwings]

I agree with Vince, I'm working with a pro upholsterer and he doesn't use it all. He says exactly the same thing. He uses a contact cement available at the upholstery supply places. He has a small detail spray gun dedicated to this stuff. Let me tell you this stuff sticks !!!!!! I got some on the tail gate of my truck and the $%# stuff is still sticky. This stuff comes in rattle cans but is pretty high buck.

I occasionally use the 3M 77 in my model making but the stress and temp are much less there. Never use it for headliners.

[HUH?]

Vince & Bentwings,

Thanks for the heads up on 3Ms #77 limitations. So far I have only done the
two doors. I will start on the rest of the car soon. I can probably talk my
upholsterer out of a bit of his spray adhesive. Can I clean the stuff out of
my touch up gun easily? For those who wish to use a rattle can could you
suggest some superior alternatives to #77.

Dave

[bentwings]

I think my buddy uses acetone or tolulene to clean his spray gun. I know he uses a larger nozzle. I'm doing a full wiring job on a car with him but I won't be at his shop again untill Monday. I'll try and get a name and supplier of the stuff. It's the super glue of contact adhesives I know that.

You don't use it to put valve cover gaskets on. Don't ask how I know. haha

[302 Z28]

DAP makes a Landau Top spray grade adhesive that is excellent. 3M also makes some good rattle can spray adhesives, look for one that says high heat.

Vince