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Old 04-29-2006, 05:27 PM
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alternator ground to battery or chassis?

I will be starting to re-assemble my front end in the next few days. One thing I would LOVE to get rid of is a large and unsightly ground cable that runs from the battery in the trunk to the alternator. I have hidden all other wiring inside the chassis rails but this is just too large to try to conceal it.

Can I not simply ensure I have a solid ground from the battery to the chassis and again from the chassis to the alternator?

Couldnt resist posting a link to a shot of the front end prior to re-assembly. Over the moon with the new paint finish!!

http://s70.photobucket.com/albums/i9...ent=rails1.jpg

Ta,

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Old 04-29-2006, 05:47 PM
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Sure you could, and probably get away with it.......but, it's not the best way. BTW, you don't have to ground the battery to the alternator... I have mine grounded to the tailshaft of the tranny....never had a problem.

You also need a good ground between the chassis and body, to help all your accessories to work properly.
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Old 04-29-2006, 06:52 PM
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Thanks!

Why is the battery-chassis and chassis-alternator method not the best way?

I would have thought it would be pretty much the same as battery-trans and alternator-chassis. In fact surely it is a better ground as the ground doesn't need to find a path from the alternator/chassis through the engine, or trans mount, to the trans where the battery ground is?

Not trying to pick holes, just trying to understand
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Old 04-29-2006, 06:59 PM
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You need a solid ground from the battery to the engine........because the starter draws the most from the battery as anything. What I was saying was that you don't necessarilly have to go to the alternator bracket. That just seems to be the most common point to ground the battery.

If you were to ground to the chassis and a smaller ground to the engine block, it would not be so good. Go with the largest wire that you can.
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:02 PM
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Ahhh, I think I have it.

So, basically re-route the large earth from the battery to the starter/engine block and then install a smaller/hidden earth from the alternator to the engine block also?
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:05 PM
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The alternator grounds through the mounting bolts. You do however need a ground between the engine block and the body of the car....
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:09 PM
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With the alternator grounding through its mounting this will leave the GND lug on the alternator empty then?

Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:12 PM
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You can ground that if you wish. The large ground wire from the battery does not go here.......it is not a large enough terminal. It goes directly to the block....or a bracket.
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Old 04-29-2006, 07:16 PM
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Thanks poncho!

It seems whoever wired it isnt a member here!
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:04 AM
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remote batt is hell on the solonoid and batt, you can't have to many grounds sources

batt ground cable to a starter mount bolt or close to it on the alum bell housing

#10 (40-63Amp alt?) from that connect to alt ground,

short #4 or so cable from the same connect to the chassis

another short #4 or so cable batt grd to chassis ground in the trunk

solonoid in the trunk has to have a excellent ground mount so a short #12-14 batt ground to solonoid mt bolt

the more "grounds fields sources"="paths to ground" the better (for the starter and coil V and accessories), I have hidden additional #10's an#14's all over my car,
EX:
(I have grounds on my grounds! seriously)
brighter brake lights=grd lights mount to batt grd (adds another batt grd path) (and to solo mt wire if convenient=another batt to chassis grd path and another solo grd source and another path for the tailights)

keep the existing dash grounds wires and connections but add wires so that all come to a single ground connect also= "each" then has has the ground source of all

heater core to dash grounds=core lasts forever

alt to the water pump=helps the radiator last, then to the dist body=12V to the dist at idle

it's one of the rare times that "alot more gooder is more good"

Last edited by red65mustang; 04-30-2006 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 04-30-2006, 06:40 AM
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Wow, and I thought the ground was a single wire!

Thanks, I do get the picture, makes sense. Based upon that I think you would , erm...raise your eyebrows if you saw what the previous owner had done. The one cable went form the battery to the alternator, NO other ground cable connected to the battery. So, the start was getting its earth through the alternator mount!

I decided this morning to use my new left over 3/16 trans pipe to try to feed it through the chassis rails from the trunk to the engine area. IF I manage that I can pull battery cables through with it. I would like to get as much hidden inside the chassis as possible.

FYI the solenoid is on the starter itself and not in the trunk.

Thanks,,
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Old 04-30-2006, 10:04 AM
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if you mount a Ford solonoid in the trunk, it's car power from the batt side of the solo with a fuse and #8 wire, "I" and "S" wires fed back to the trunk, starter cable to the starter side of the solo, so the now the cable is only hot when starting so starter cable (to it's terminal) and batt grd (to a mount bolt)both go to the starter

if you do run a batt plus thru the car to the motor mounted solonoid, DO insulate the xxxx out of it! the starter pulls unbelieveable amps to start a hot motor,

make sense?
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Old 04-30-2006, 10:58 AM
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thanks but the solenoid is on the starter
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Old 04-30-2006, 11:53 AM
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both ways work,

insulate the heck out of the plus though, you don't want a thin spot in the wire insulation to be able to "bleed" to a ground when the starter is pulling a gazzillion amps,

once used a length of garden hose, that will work just fine
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Old 04-30-2006, 03:23 PM
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got it, thanks!

Once I get a wire/pipe the length of the car inside the rails I will pull a new + cable through.
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