[jr.rodder]

Hello, I recently bought a model t street rod and trying to work out the kinks. Seems to have strange electrical problems. The one that worries the most is the alternator will read 16 or more volts when driving down the road.
I replaced the one that was in it with one i found in my dads garage. At an idle its around 14 or so, measured at a handheld voltmeter, so i believe the gauge is correct.
Engine is a 350. Just put a brand new battery in it, and the car has sat for around 4 or 5 years mostly uncovered. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas of what i should try to do. Thanks in advance.

Here's the alternator...

[DOCTOR DC]

It looks like a DN type alternator wired to be a 1 wire. Not a good thing. A DN is externally regulated. Even if its a SI its not wired correctly.

[bubbahotep]

I agree. It looks like a DN alternator that needs an external regulator so without it your output will be based on rpm and will always be too high (unregulated).

Delco DN Alternator (google that)

[LATECH]

Looks like a fire waiting to happen

[fast68]

swap to a 73-up alternator

easy and safer and will charge correctly then

13.8 volts is normal

[LATECH]

By the way I like the ICON under your name . That is a cool sign. I have one too.

[jr.rodder]

Thanks so much for the replies. I looked back at the one I pulled off. It is a different alternator. Should i just take the old one in to auto zone or Advance and have them find one like it?
I'm trying to learn this stuff as I go. Thanks again.

[jr.rodder]

I went ahead and got a remanufactured alternator, that should be the same as the original.
Just to err on the side of caution, should I wire it like this? http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=23902
as that seems to be how the old one was likely hooked up.

[jr.rodder]

Crap, cant edit my post. The blue wire in my picture goes to ACC on the ignition switch.

[harleygearhead]

The number 2 wire well work were it is but should go to horn relay or fuse box + . That is the wire that tells it to put out more or less amps . Yes number 1 to hot with key on .My two cents

[bubbahotep]

If you're using a remanufactured one that is identical to the one you posted a pic of then it is still incorrect. Is the new one also a DN alternator or a regular 3 wire?

[35terraplane]

I would get the plug or two wire connector from a Gm parts dept. Wire number one terminal to the Acc. of your ING. switch and Number two wire down to the stud on the ALT. marked battery. both these wires should be #14 wire. Then I would run a #10 wire, If it is an older build does it have a ammeter or volt meter. If it has a ammeter run that #10 wire to the back side of the gauge to the + terminal, Then from the - terminal run the #10 wire to the Batt. terminal of the solenoid on the starter. I would run new wires Just because the others could be cracked and old, and I would add the flat connector because it would clean it up a lot. also when I do a car I use lots of wire ties and but it down by the intake bolts, you can also use wire looms.

Later 35terraplane

[jr.rodder]

Bubbahotep- I think its a regular 3 wire, like the original. Like i said the one in the picture i found in my garage, because the original was shot.

It has a voltmeter.

Gonna try to set it up now.

[35terraplane]

Then wire the #10 wire to the alt. Batt. stud, and the other end to the Batt. terminal of the solenoid on the starter, if it looks like the one you posted.

Later 35terraplane

I missed where you said it was a three wire delete this

[jr.rodder]

I think its good now. Running just over 14 volts now. Thanks a lot guys.
At some point i'll rewire the number 2 to a fuse box or horn relay.

Tomorrow heading out to Tampa (100mi. away) for Southeast NSRA. Hope fully everything holds up.
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