[toyojake]

I just tossed a stock serp belt setup onto my 1973 Chevy C10 it originally had an SI alternator, a 3 wire set up. One large red wire for battery on the stud on the back, and 2 wires to spade connectors on the alternator.

The serp setup came from a 1990 GMC 1/2 ton truck with a 350 TBI. The alternator for it shows to be a CS130 (by part number search) All of the searches I've done have brought me threads with talk of a connector that has 3 or 4 wires in the connector. Mine only has 1 small (about 16AWG) wire connecting the L pin on the alternator (4 pins) out of SFLP (from L to R). It is a rectangular plug that I cut out of the truck I took the serp setup from. Does this need to be hooked up at all?

I understand the CS130 doesn't require the sense wire? I don't plan to run an idiot light, just a volt gauge that is what the other wire is for right? And of course the wire on the stud is for the battery.

I am confused after reading so much conflicting information so far. Any light anyone could shed will be greatly appreciated!

[EOD Guy]

These might help you in the conversion

[toyojake]

Thanks that helped! I also now need to find a key switched 12v source for both my alternator and my HEI swap, does anyone know of a good source under the hood? Is the stud on the pass side of the firewall with a few large red wires from the harness a switched source? Or should I route both into the cab?

Thanks!

[Cape Cod Bob]

Did you change the water pump?

[toyojake]

Originally Posted by Cape Cod Bob

Did you change the water pump?

Yes I put a new reverse pump and used the fan from the truck.

[Cridder]

Alternator Upgrades - High-output Alternator Tricks On The Cheap - Car Craft Magazine I used PICO part #5367 11 when i did my swap on my 78 Jimmy, the main differance on models as i recall is wither youer CS has the internal resistor for use with the indicator light, you can even sourse a plug with the resistor soldered in line i think, if your CS was for a gauged app.

[EOD Guy]

That terminal should be always hot. I'd run new one into the cab..... that way you know it's not complicating another circuit, which can be a bear to trouble shoot later. The old resistor lead for the dizzy can still be used if you remove the resistor part of the wire, if you can't figure old what part that is.... just replace the whole wire and terminate it at the same places as the orig....... the lead from the starter can be used to provide the dizzy with 12v during the start sequence (if nedded)