Doc here,
imp:
One procedure at a time.... :smash: :sweat:
The BATT wire (10 gauge) goes to the battery side of the solenoid.
Why the battery went dead could be about anything from leaving a lamp on and forgetting about it to a bad set of diodes in the alternator.
Sounds like you did the right thing on the wiring harness..clean and replace as needed.. :thumbup:
Sounds like in so doing, as evidenced by your better lighting, you cleaned up some bad grounds and some bad wires. you may have been under charging before contributing to the dead battery.
On the solenoid, If when you connected the battery cable you got a big spark..you have a major system draw..How did you start the car with those off the solenoid? In theory, It should have no power anywhere...
If it only sparked when you hooked up the Alternator to the solenoid, you either have the wrong wire from the alternator, or a short on it, or the diodes on the alternator are totally shot..
Again, another mystery, If you disconnected the Alternator and drove it, and the lights got Bright, and stayed bright..and the alternator light is out..how did that happen?
I'd find out if you have a problem in the harness before you go replacing it..may just be a waste of money if the diodes are shot..better spent on a rebuild kit or new alternator.
You need to do a current draw test with the alternator in circuit, and one without to determine if it is that or another draw in the car..Get out your DVOM, and set it for AMPS , Highest scale, with everything hooked up, remove either battery cable, place one probe on the battery and the other on the cable that was there...
scale the AMPS scale back until it almost pegs the meter, that will be your reading..It should read between 0.3 and 0.8 amps on a modern vehicle with a Computer, CD player with memory presets, Clock, and mechanical clock..any more and you have a draw that is causing a dead battery..
If so, disconnect the alternator, re~take your readings..If the load drops into the 0.3-0.8 range .. your alternator needs service, or replacement.
If not , hook it back up and go to your fuse box, If it is well identified as to what fuse is what, pull all the fuses..If it is not make a drawing of the fuse layout and fuse values then pull them all..
Re~take your measurements..t should be 000..If so, Check all the fuses (with an ohm meter set to R X 1 Scale, calibrated to 000) and replace them in the fuse buss one at a time in proper sequence..
re~take your Current draw after each fuse is put back, until it shoots up past the 0.3-0.8 range..that will be the offender..follow that branch circuit and clear or remove the draw.
Doc