Aluminum hard blocks - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2013, 08:18 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,078
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 60
Thanked 90 Times in 76 Posts
Aluminum hard blocks

Where are you guys finding your aluminum blocks? I can't find anything. I picked up some 1" square aluminum tubing that I can cut to length but I'm thinking it may be too narrow. This is for cutting clear.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-06-2013, 08:25 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cranston RI
Age: 46
Posts: 483
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 59 Times in 50 Posts
You can use plexi glass blocks, that is all I use. Different thickness for various shaped panels. This is the biggest key to getting rid of all that urethane distortion. Depending on the peel I start cutting with the hard blocks with 800 to 1200. Then after that I use the 3M sqeegee for the finer grits just to get rid of the sand scratches.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2013, 06:07 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,078
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 60
Thanked 90 Times in 76 Posts
Plexiglass blocks...are these something you just find at Lowes or is it actually a specialty paint item?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2013, 06:11 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,018
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 22
Thanked 430 Times in 361 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
Where are you guys finding your aluminum blocks? I can't find anything. I picked up some 1" square aluminum tubing that I can cut to length but I'm thinking it may be too narrow. This is for cutting clear.
Just get some wood not aluminum... I use mahogany but ceder is also good,just get straight with 80 then fine tune with 180 and your good to go. I made several sizes up to a all are 3/4 x3/4 the smallest is for a single flow indicator 1' and they go up in 1"increments to 4" ...Yup 35 yrs of painting and I still need something to remove run away flow indicators (Tsunamis) (Giant wave).... the best thing about using wood (besides being easier to work with) is it floats in the wetsand bucket and wont sink to the bottom where its hard to find...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2013, 06:07 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cranston RI
Age: 46
Posts: 483
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 59 Times in 50 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
Plexiglass blocks...are these something you just find at Lowes or is it actually a specialty paint item?
No these are something you will have to find up at a plastics company that makes lexan and plexiglass. Very cheap and can make in many shapes and sizes. As DBM has stated wood will also do the job as will aluminum. Basically what you need is a hard block, not rubber to remove that urethane peel (cellulite). Rubber will not do it even starting off with a real course grit. What I like about the plexi is it will flex with the panel, something that the wood or aluminum can not do.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-11-2013, 06:30 PM
John long's Avatar
Slow but willing learner
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chattanooga, Tn
Age: 68
Posts: 2,004
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 919
Thanked 706 Times in 566 Posts
Josh, I agree with everyone here. I use a piece of 3/8 x 1 1/4 aluminum about 5 inches long some one gave me. I rounded the corners and edges so I would not gouge the surface but a very smooth hardwood or plexiglass would be just as good. You are just looking for a block that will make the sand paper remove the top of the orange peel without following the surface and hitting the low areas of the peel also. The important thing is that it is very flat and smooth.

Also, when color sanding with a block it is good to start with a fairly course grit like 1000. When I accidentally shot my hood with a 1.8 needle I started with 800 Norton Champaign because of the extreme peel.

LOL I did have lots of paint on it though.

John
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2013, 05:30 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 53
Posts: 6,018
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 22
Thanked 430 Times in 361 Posts
For some reason I thought you wanted some blocks for sanding runs... I dont use the wood blocks for color sanding...what exactly are you trying to achieve. You dont need hard blocks to color sand your mustang, just a few soft blocks it looks slicker than sheet to me... dont you just want to get rid of some trash and slight peel?
If you loaded up the clear too fast (more than two coats at a time) it might have that dreadful urathane wave and need hard blocking but insted of sanding out the wave and "buffing" it all back I find it much easier and faster to hard block with 600 and just reshoot the clear. mostly because I really hate buffing ...
from what I've seen all your car needs is the runs sanded (1000 grit) then soft block the trash and peel 1500 then 2000 -2500 and a quick buff and polish ...
at my shop anything sanded with 1000 or coarser gets painted not buffed,(painting grits) anything 1000 and up are (buffing grits)...heck, I sand primer with 800 why would I want to sand clear wtih something coarser than that...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-13-2013, 09:12 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 1,078
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 60
Thanked 90 Times in 76 Posts
Those pictures are extremely forgiving. I do want to sand out the runs, and I've got enough of those to keep me busy for a long time. There is quite a bit of trash in the clear in places, and there still is some peel, though I don't think it's too bad. I have to look at it just right to be able to see it. The biggest problem I have besides the runs is dry spray moreso than peel, and it's not from moving over it too fast, but it's from overspray falling on it and making it dry.

I am not sure what urethane wave looks like, but I do have some spots I can see where you can see the clear is on real thick and uneven and just needs cut flat. I was going to start with 1000. I really didn't want to go more aggressive if I didn't have to, except for maybe on the runs.

...yeah, I still haven't done anything to the car after I cleared it in the way of sanding or buffing. I disappeared to Europe for a week after that, and then came back home and have been pretty much winterizing the farm. I have been doing assembly on the car, such as the headlight buckets, turn signals, quarter ornaments, some trim, etc. At first I thought I might want to wait until after sanding, but then I realized little slips here and there would make tiny scratches or gouges and I decided I'd rather have those on the surface to be sanded rather than the surface that was shiny and polished.

As it is now, it's in the 20's and low 30's at night so I sure as hell am not going to wet sand now. I needed to take a vacation from the car. I had promised my wife when it was done being painted I'd take care of things around the place I've been putting off all summer and we'd do more with the horses. So it' been a nice break.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2014, 04:32 PM
Old Fool's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: spokane,wa.
Posts: 1,343
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 40 Times in 34 Posts
If you have a metal supply house that carries alum I -beam you are all set.

Purchase some 3" 6061 t6 American Standard (size).

Cut to length, then narrow the top flange to a width that your hand feels comfortable width when the flange has a piece of foam pipe insulation slid over it.

Sand all the edges and corners to a nice radius.

You can buy PSA rolls that are 2 3/4" wide, which is a great fit on the face of the 3" American Standard size beam, which is 2 5/16" wide. Weight is about 2# per foot.

fyi: Aluminum Association sizing 3" beam measures 2 1/2" wide which works well too but I personally prefer to be able to roll the paper up the sides of the flange.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2014, 06:57 PM
hp246's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: United States
Posts: 292
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 12
Thanked 11 Times in 8 Posts
Lizer,
If you are still looking for aluminum blocks, try ALRO Steel. I go to the one in Ann Arbor, and they sell plenty of scraps. I know they have one in Jackson, don't know about the west side of the state.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Homemade aluminum sanding blocks cyclopsblown34 Body - Exterior 7 03-03-2008 06:30 PM
Aluminum Or Iron Blocks-which One Is Better ALASKAN Engine 21 04-11-2006 07:09 PM
downsides to aluminum blocks firestone Engine 16 10-21-2004 02:11 PM
aluminum chevy engine blocks classic_chevy_guy Engine 3 10-03-2003 07:40 AM
aluminum chevy engine blocks classic_chevy_guy Engine 8 10-02-2003 03:46 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.