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Old 10-30-2012, 11:28 AM
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Aluminum radiator problem

Some months ago I had my radiator out to have a pro shop fix a leak, they were unable to seal the leak in the normal way so they used epoxy. It didn't hold and now the leak is back. The problem as I understand it is that the leak is up at the top of the core at the bottom of the tank. This may be a bit drastic but I'm wondering if it would be possible to cut the tank at the bottom weld and remove all or a piece of it to get access to the top of the core. Is the core for these soldered or welded? I have access to a metal band saw and a friend who can weld aluminum. I would add that a stop leak for aluminum only worked through the summer. So, is this the way to go? It's cheaper than a new replacement.

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Old 10-31-2012, 05:56 AM
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Is the rad. a Griffin? With the prices of alum. rad. coming down I wouldn't bother with a perpetual leaker, no way to know if it will start leaking somewhere else. I paid $400 for my PRC fully tig welded rad. and it is a work of art.
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:19 AM
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327,thanks...
I agree, my PRC radiator is pretty but it still leaks. I emailed them about the possibility of them repairing it but no answer. So I'm still looking for a solution other than spending another $400.
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:04 AM
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Have you tried calling them on the phone? I just did and spoke to Shaun, he said he hasn't received any emails lately reg. a leaking rad. but would be glad to hear from you. He also said that they have a full 2 yr. warranty on their units......BUT if the rad. has had an attempted repair by the owner or another shop then that would obviously void the warranty. Since they built it I would definately call them and see what options you have. (812) 897-5805
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:30 PM
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alum radiator problems

You probably have an aluminum radiator sealed with epoxy when made they usally give problems I purchaced a champion radiator 4 flu aluminun off Ebay for $188 fits perfect cools my big block chevy in 53 chevy pu with no problems i have stall converter and air u am running shroud and electric these radiators are FULLY WELDED no leahs perfect fit i would recemend to anyone you can see pictures on my link also finish is very good and NO i dont have any connections or financial gain just good service and fit
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 46highboypu View Post
Some months ago I had my radiator out to have a pro shop fix a leak, they were unable to seal the leak in the normal way so they used epoxy. It didn't hold and now the leak is back. The problem as I understand it is that the leak is up at the top of the core at the bottom of the tank. This may be a bit drastic but I'm wondering if it would be possible to cut the tank at the bottom weld and remove all or a piece of it to get access to the top of the core. Is the core for these soldered or welded? I have access to a metal band saw and a friend who can weld aluminum. I would add that a stop leak for aluminum only worked through the summer. So, is this the way to go? It's cheaper than a new replacement.
I have repaired an aluminum radiator using those "bond a coke can to another coke can" solder-type rods. You know the ones- usually sold at swap meets and flea markets by a hungover-looking dude who looks like he'd rather be anywhere but there? That stuff. Believe it or not, it DOES work. In my case, I dimpled the pinhole down w/a sharpened then blunted wooden dowel (so as to dent the area down, but not open the hole up any more than it was), then built the area back up using the solder stick. Still holding pressure in my P-U, been about 10 years now.
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Old 11-25-2012, 08:34 AM
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Hey guys, thanks for the input but...the hole seems to be up under the top tank in the core. The shop couldn't get to it to solder or what ever so they tried to stuff epoxy into the fins to seal the leak. Which worked for awhile. Against popular advice I even tried the aluminum stop leak, which worked for awhile. Now I'm tired of the "fixes" and want to repair the leak. I have talked to lots of people who seem the think it would be a radical way to go to cut the top off but if it leaks and can't be repaired then there is no loss. It's junk any way. The new radiator cost me $400 and the cheapest one I've found is $260, I can get a lot of welding done for $200 or so. When I have my garage project done and can get to the hot rod I think this is the plan I'll go with. It is also less than shipping it back to the manufacturer (I've had it too long, and it's been worked on so no warranty). Thanks again for the replies!
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:16 AM
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I know you know where the leak is at. I would go one step further and pressure test it in a tank of water. You plug all the holes and put a fitting in one of them to couple an airline. You don't want to use very high pressure, just enough to fill the rad with air and under water, you will spot the leak. At least this way you can actually pinpoint the problem.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:10 AM
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i'm with 496...

i also have a champion rad.. welded and life time warranty.. its on my Tbucket so its right out there.. no hiding...
looks great and works great.. and a really good price too..
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:11 AM
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Sunsetdart,
I hope that the repair goes well but any way I'll still have some rad shop tank it and see if it is indeed repaired. By the way I'm envious of your wagon I LOVE it!

Thanks again!!
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