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Aluminum stud guns and repair?
Anyone know where to buy a hand held aluminum stud gun?
We are seeing more and more this material and needing something to repair it. Anyone know of such a critter that doesnt cost an arm and leg? About some lessons on smaller repairs like hail damage on aluminum? What Ive been doing is using those small hand held butune mini torches. I apply heat in a circular motion around the outside of dent moving inward with smaller circles. By the time I reach of center of the dent the dent is no longer an inward dent but an outward dent. I stop appling heat, as it cools some the metal returns to its natural state but most of it returns to its damaged state. Should I cool with water/air at ANY period of the repair? Right after I stop appling heat or maybe when it appears to be level and smooth right before it continues going back to its damaged position? Ive thought of using those PDR hot glue guns to repair small dents. Never used that tool before, would it have enough stregth to maintain its hold? Any thoughts on this. How about some good websites that talk about repairing damaged aluminum. thanks...Eric |
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metal tips
Go to www.metalmeet.com a bunch of the fellows that do jags and other aluminum cars live over there so to speak..Great resource for anyone who does metal work..
OMT
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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Quote: I apply heat in a circular motion around the outside of dent moving inward with smaller circles. By the time I reach of center of the dent the dent is no longer an inward dent but an outward dent. I stop appling heat, as it cools some the metal returns to its natural state but most of it returns to its damaged state.
Should I cool with water/air at ANY period of the repair? Right after I stop appling heat or maybe when it appears to be level and smooth right before it continues going back to its damaged position? This sounds similar to a proceedure I have used on steel panels, With a small oxy/acetylene torch tip I circle the ding and work it inwards till the ding raises then make one pass with a metal file and quench with a wet rag. I once took out eighty+ dings in a single truck roof using this method. The only drawback was it burns the paint off of the panel's backside. I think using the butane torch for a lower heat on the alluminum must be working if the ding reverses itself but you may need to run a sanding block over it and quench it to get the right results. If you have a scrap hood try it. The block needs to cut a very slight amount of alluminum off the surface while it is hot for the quench to work right. Bob |
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Barry, in the lastest issue of autobodytoolmart, they were selling a setup that would weld studs on aluminum, steel and stainless. It was made by Miller, but to nice price of 3200 bucks
Didnt know if there was a smaller setup. Whats the trick when the torch method wont work? I work at a Ford dealership and get to see aluminum darn near every day. Ive done a few explorer hoods that could have benefited from a stud gun. Had no backside excess, used the torch to get as much as would come, but had to fill her up with mud. Try telling ALLstate that you need a new $800 hood that has a few dings in it Barry what brand of hot glue gun did you get? I think those would work pretty good on smaller areas. Does the glue stick to bare metal be it steel or aluminum or any over a painted surface? Ive used my mini torch on hail dents on steel for a few years works slicker then snot. Many times I can just block down the existing paint to get a level surface, prime and paint. |
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My Glue puller is H & S Auto shot. (it is the best one of all)
I knew there were the big machines but so far no one has been able to figure it out with the little stud guns like the H & S 9000 that i have. I have had good luck with a propane torch and wet rag and grinder. Of course we will not talk about the 280 SL hood that I totaled. |
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