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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 05:03 AM
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Forget the 700r4 for off roading. 4l60e is the same as the 700r4 except electronic.
A TH400 is what you want for an automatic.

383 is the way to go for sure. Roller cam is the best with the new oils today.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Forget the 700r4 for off roading. 4l60e is the same as the 700r4 except electronic.
A TH400 is what you want for an automatic.

383 is the way to go for sure. Roller cam is the best with the new oils today.
A TH400 would be great for a bare bones crawler but he needs it to be capable on the interstate as well. A TH400 spinning 4.xx gears will really put a damper on top speed and fuel efficiency.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 01:59 PM
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If you are considering a 383, basically from the ground up, it's easy to spend in the $4K plus range to do it all correctly. When buying pistons, there's the cast vs hyper-E vs forged question. With crank kits there are quality issues with some suppliers, and at every turn there are upportunitities to "step up" a bit more. These add up. If you are considering new components into an older block, and perhaps new fuel injection, you might want to rethink the 350 Ram Jet. 350 HP, 400 Ft-lbs and a torque curve that is remarkably flat all the way down under 2000 RPM. At $5500 or so, this is not inexpensive, but I do think it'd be wise to at least investigate. The installtion // wiring is much simpler than probably anything else you'll find.

Pat
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jr. Mechanic
A TH400 would be great for a bare bones crawler but he needs it to be capable on the interstate as well. A TH400 spinning 4.xx gears will really put a damper on top speed and fuel efficiency.

This is how these projects start adding up.

A good tranny for this beast is a must.
A 4l80e would do the job nicely. Requires a $900.00 controller though.

An LS1 computer could run the 4l80e and an LS1 motor nicely.

Alot to think about when one wants the best of both worlds.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 03:39 PM
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ok....i cant stay out of this.

A 383 isn't going to be "cheap"...
The more power you make its gonna get less reliable...
Its gonna burn more fuel....lots more. Especially without an overdrive...


if i was doing it....4bt all the way. but since your stuck on a sbc...

your gonna have to give in one or two areas, either reliability, cost, or fuel milage...

if you want the power you need to tow, offroad and such, your gonna lose reliability and fuel mileage...

if you want economy your gonna have to give in power....


My thoughts if your gonna stick with gas!

idk...keep it simple. The more upgrades you do, the more its gonna lose reliability and mileage. Maybe rebuild a 350 tbi or tpi, keep it stock.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 05:22 PM
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Chevyota

Reading your post, you mentioned reliability and simplicity of maintainence a priority. TBI and other fuel injection systems are not that complicated anymore but there is something to be said for the reliability and simplicity/cost of a carburator, just my opinion. I would find a rebuildable 350 new or older, either two peice or one peice rear main. Rebuild kit from Northern Auto ($189.00), rebuild it stock with new rod bolts, balanced. Rebuild the heads and use a comp cams K-kit like a 252 or 256 cam, excellent torque and MPG. It is a must to have the press in studs replaced with screw in studs, even mild higher spring rates can cause the press in studs to work loose. Find a older non-EGR 4 barrel Quadrajet manifold and rebuild a Quadrajet carb. HEI ignition. This will deliver very good reliability, MPG and parts are anywhere you plan to travel. It's nice to be able to buy a water pump or fuel pump almost anywhere in America under $30.00. It is the most cost effective and simple conversion that can be done for your project. One major cost is the adapter from GM engine to Toyota trans or use a Turbo 350 or 400 to a Toyota transfer case. Either can be purchased from Advance adapters. Good luck on your project.
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Old 01-26-2011, 08:12 PM
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Weight issues

I am not going to argue the reliability or torque with the 4bt but I know one thing for sure them front birfields will not be happy with the weight of the 4bt over a small block. The front Toyota axle was never designed to deal with that type of weight and there is nothing worse than cleaning out an exploded birfield on the trail. I have heard some folks say the diesel weighs upwards of 1100 lbs vs a 550 lbs small block, just saying.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 08:50 PM
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are you running stock birfields?
ive seen good stuff with the long-fields by bobby long.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2011, 11:14 PM
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This is the type of dicussion I was hoping to start!

So I'm being steered away from a 383? I cant build a solid, reliable, mild 383?

Best bet seems to go for a 5.7l vortec and tear it down, check/freshen as needed?

Can I use TBI system and keep all the newer accessories?

Thanks guys!
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2011, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbleon
This is the type of dicussion I was hoping to start!

So I'm being steered away from a 383? I cant build a solid, reliable, mild 383?

Best bet seems to go for a 5.7l vortec and tear it down, check/freshen as needed?

Can I use TBI system and keep all the newer accessories?

Thanks guys!

Wrong.
Why would a 383 not be reliable?

You want a 383 for sure. you'll need the extra torque.
You don't want a 383 with a long duration cam built for HP.
You want a mild cam good for low end grunt.

Take the extra cubes. Its almost like free power since you're building from the ground up.

Use the TBI if you want simple fuel injection.

JET Article

Last edited by 123pugsy; 01-27-2011 at 05:08 AM.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2011, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy
Wrong.
Why would a 383 not be reliable?

You want a 383 for sure. you'll need the extra torque.
You don't want a 383 with a long duration cam built for HP.
You want a mild cam good for low end grunt.

Take the extra cubes. Its almost like free power since you're building from the ground up.

Use the TBI if you want simple fuel injection.

JET Article
I was saying it wasnt going to be as reliable, cause he will build a 383. Then someone will suggest he put a roller cam in it...then a set of alluminum heads, then a really fancy ignition system, then an elaborate fuel injection system...and so on and so forth.

and higher hp engines require more matienence, have more strain on parts and generally dont last longer.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2011, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRoy1978
I was saying it wasnt going to be as reliable, cause he will build a 383. Then someone will suggest he put a roller cam in it...then a set of alluminum heads, then a really fancy ignition system, then an elaborate fuel injection system...and so on and so forth.

and higher hp engines require more matienence, have more strain on parts and generally dont last longer.

Glad you agree.
We should try to point the OP in the right direction and explain the high HP build is not what he wants, but a high torque build will run smoothly rather than turn him off it completely.
Idle will be no problem with strong vacuum etc and the extra torque is a great bonus.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2011, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRoy1978
I was saying it wasnt going to be as reliable, cause he will build a 383. Then someone will suggest he put a roller cam in it...then a set of alluminum heads, then a really fancy ignition system, then an elaborate fuel injection system...and so on and so forth.

and higher hp engines require more matienence, have more strain on parts and generally dont last longer.
Someone could do all that to ANY engine and reduce it's reliability. I think the odds of doing all the add ons are much less with an engine that's already got decent torque and HP, vs. one that's somewhat anemic and begging to be built up.
Whether you decide to go SBC 350 or 383, I would suggest you build it somewhat higher than stock. If you go completely stock you may find yourself wishing you'd gone a bit higher, as the cost is the same either way, and a mild build wont affect reliability.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2011, 10:41 PM
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Hey guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on a 2004 5.3l with 61k. It is COMPLETE. All accessories, wiring, gas pedal with TAK, etc. I really like the fact that its ALL there ready to bolt in.

Everything looks good, EXCEPT, the block appears to have surface rust as well as on the headers. Is this normal? Is it bad? Can I fix it?

Price is $1000.

What do you guys think.

Thanks for the help!

Tell me what you think about the rust...














Last edited by dbleon; 01-28-2011 at 10:51 PM.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2011, 02:13 AM
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personally, I wouldn't mess with a 5.3. they have cold start piston slap pretty much from the factory, and definitely when they get some miles.. you also need an aftermarket ECU and wiring harness. it's not like a TBI engine, where you can take the engine harness/ ECU and put it in whatever your swapping into. the 5.3L's have the engine harness tied into everything, along with that torque command or whatever it is that is designed to limit torque to keep the wheels from spinning

I'd find a TBI 350/ 4L60E from a '93-'95 pickup and a set of Vortech heads.. build a Vortech headded TBI 383. you will need the GMPP conversion manifold or a 454 4bbl-TBI adapter plate and a Carb- Vortech intake manifold.. the wiring can be removed and transfered fairly easy, and it will need a new
chip. but with the right cam. it will run quite well

you could also run the TBI heads, because they operate best below 4,000 RPM, and that would be just about perfect for crawling.
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