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Old 11-19-2002, 11:06 AM
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im looking to put together a small block i picked it up from a friend of mine it is a four bolt main i was looking to push anound 500hp without nos its a 30over block i need suggestions on a bottom end maybe manley aluminum rods steel crank5140 and 10.5 to 1 pistons and balanced would this be good enough if i wanted to add about 175shot of nos and maybe some help on the heads if any one could help it would be greatly appreciated thanks

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Old 11-19-2002, 11:22 AM
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Go with 4340 forged rods. They dont require the maintenance of aluminum, and they will last longer. If you are looking to make 675 HP, you will also need to grout the block if you want it to last. Stock blocks will not hold up to that kind of HP for long. At 500 it would be okay.

As for heads; Brodix, Motown 220s, Trick Flow, AFR. Any of those should support 500 N/A HP.

Chris
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Old 11-19-2002, 11:42 AM
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I agree about the heads, and want to offer my .02 cents.
85 Regal, Brodix heads are good, but they are a little pricey. I would have to go with the World Castings Motown 220 if budget is a concern.

Turbo, this is gonna sound really dumb, but since I don't know, I have to ask - grout the block? What's this?
Reason I ask is because I'm making a theoretical 700 hp (Haven't done the chassis dyno yet, I'm waiting for my intake and blower to arrive so I can start the engine break-in), and darn sure do NOT want the thing to come apart on me.
Thanks!
~Michael
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Old 11-19-2002, 12:09 PM
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Grout is a substance that is poured in the block as a liquid and then hardens to partially fill the water jackets. This helps to stabilize the block. OEM blocks are not thick enough to handle 600+ horsepower for very long. There are two ways a block can be grouted. Short fill is where it is only filled half way to the top of the cylinders(or a little less) and water is still allowed to flow around the cylinders. Tall fill is where it is filled almost to the top with only enough room left for water flow to the heads.

There are huge drawbacks to a full grout. The oil is cooled by transferring heat through the block wall to the water. When a block is grouted this does not happen. This means that you will have to have a good oil cooler to even have a chance of driving it on the street. A oil temp gauge would also be in order.

A block trying to hold this much power will also need studs top to bottom.

The other option to all this with that power level is an aftermarket block. They are designed to handle the high hP levels.

Chris
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Old 11-19-2002, 12:47 PM
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Ahhhh, ok, gotcha now.

***Muttering under breath now about not doing enough research while preparing to go home and call the machine shop back and then dis-assemble engine for a return trip*** LoL

I had seriously looked into the aftermarket blocks (Such as the World blocks) instead of an old junkyard plug, but, at the cost of 1500 for a bare block, it just wasn't in the cards at the time...live and learn, right?
I may just de-tune the motor to produce less HP instead of going throught the grouting process.
I've already got the thing studded out and had the shop machine the saddles to accept splayed caps. They never even mentioned the grout thing, thats why my eyebrows kinda raised when I read that...something new to learn.....

Not that I'm questioning you or anything, but, doesn't filling the water jackets (on the short fill) restrict cooling? I would think this is a bad thing as the more hp you make, the more cooling you need.

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~Michael
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Old 11-19-2002, 12:55 PM
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It will mainly reduce oil cooling like the tall fill, but not as much.

On you motor, if this is a weekend cruiser you will probably be fine since it will seldom see peak power. If it is a drag car that will always see peak power....well...

I dont see why the block could not be filled totally assembled. Just remove the freeze plugs and filler up...or half.

I am building my first grouted block motor as we speak, so I am not sure how bad the cooling problems are. I suspect it will be signifcant. I also had a hard time with the $1500 aftermarket stuff.


Chris
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