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Old 02-17-2010, 06:33 PM
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Another air-piping thread.....

Hello, Im a newbie here, been spending the last 2 days looking at threads pertaining to air piping. I have a 60 gallon Kobalt compressor, and have been having some moisture come thru my lines. Here is a quick drawing of what I have in mind. I wanted to run it along side the wall, but I have a workbench with pegboard up on my walls I put up a few years back, so I came up with this... leave the compressor go up, around the inside front of my shop and put a drain in the opposite corner, come around the corner and install my regulator/filter assembly. The way I have it measured, it will be a little over 50' long. I planned on using 3/4" galvanized pipe, but I stopped by Lowes' and Home Depot today to look around, and both were out (of the 10' pieces), so I thought about using the Blackpipe.
Well I attached my drawing, just need opinions on if you think it will work at removing the moisture. I just wanted to make it simple, but I am definately open to suggestions.
Thank you,
Jason
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:52 PM
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Hi,
I think if I were doing this I would slope the 30'run back toward the compressor
& put a drop/drain at the end of the 4' section at the flex pipe.
Rich
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:37 PM
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Me Too

I think I would agree with Richard, but a second blow down drain would be cool too. I don't think you'll ever get it moisture free, least I never have had any luck. If the line continuously slopes down hill to the tank, thats about the best you're gonna get. olnolan
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:00 PM
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Alright, I took both of your advise and revised my drawing. Look any better?

Jason
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:03 PM
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if you can get the pipe to a location so the outside air can help cool it , the shop I had I used a semi truck air drier ( cheap and rebuildable and capable of handling the volum of air ) in the line 15 feet into the system never had any water problems after that , ( the hard part is to hook up the release valve so it drains when the compressor shut down ) the second drawing looks real efficent you could go from the flexpipe to a tee ( put the tee apx 2 feet up from the bottom of a 8' length of 4" dia pipe then neck it down to your runner size , as the change of velocity going from 3/4 to 4" will help the moisture to drop out of the air column don't worry the pressure will still be what it is when it comes out of the compressor tank as the big pipe will act as a mini tank just the air speed going thru it will slow down and you have more cooling surface too . .

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Old 02-27-2010, 07:41 PM
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Im in Mobile AL and also just hooked up my 60 gal Kobalt. The compressor sat in my shed for a year or so and I finally got off my butt and ran the 220VAC.

I LOVE IT! I can now use all the air hog air tools Ive picked up over the years at home. Like my Sioux air DA and Sioux air grinder.

My little 8 gal home compressor wouldnt even make my air DA sneeze, much less run it. The Kobalt runs it just fine at 55 psi regulated.

I went with 1/2 black pipe from Lowes. My 60 gal Kobalt came with a 3/8 output on it, but replaced that with a 1/2 outlet. The compressor sits on a slab under a small tin roof cover behind my garage.

I came out of the compressor with a 1/2 flex line, then into a vertical pipe, up the outside wall, across and back down, then over to a HF air filter/dryer/regulator. Drain valves at the bottom of all 3 vertical pipes.

I have an outside air connection now, and will be drilling my garage wall for an inside connection.

Great choice on a compressor.

Mike
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:37 PM
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Increasing output size??

Mike,

I'm curious how you increased the compressor output from 3/8" to 1/2". Did you drill out the output hole and retap it? Or was there another method available? I've got a 1/2" output on my IR compressor that I'd like to increase to 3/4". It appears I would have to drill and tap and I'm looking for other ideas.

Thanks!

Chuck
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Old 03-06-2010, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwmcobra
Mike,

I'm curious how you increased the compressor output from 3/8" to 1/2". Did you drill out the output hole and retap it? Or was there another method available? I've got a 1/2" output on my IR compressor that I'd like to increase to 3/4". It appears I would have to drill and tap and I'm looking for other ideas.

Thanks!

Chuck
Chuck, the Kobalt came with a 2" x 3/8" pipe bushing screwed into a welded bung on the side of the tank for the output. I looked at a few places but couldnt find the same sized bushing with a 1/2" hole in it. I could have bought a tap and drilled/tapped the original bushing for 1/2", but I just got 3 reducing bushings, screwed them all together and took it down to 1/2".

Click for bigger pics.



I did all that because my big blue round HF air filter/regulator has a 1/2" input, so I ran 1/2" all the way to it. I just dont like that it has a 1/4" output. But, I guess you have to neck it down somewhere to fit the air tool connection. At least I have the 1/2" going to the filter/reg. You can see the outside air connection with the yellow coiled hose attached to it. The 90 degree elbow pointing toward the doorway will be extended into the garage. It will require another HF filter/reg inside the garage.









Mike
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Old 03-06-2010, 09:23 AM
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Thanks Mike. I also have a bushing that appears to be screwed into the weld bung on the side of the tank. Only problem is it appears that the bushing is spot welded to the bung. I haven't put a wrench on it to see if it moves yet and I'm trying to see if Ingersoll Rand sells those bushings as repair parts. If so, I suspect I could get it out and replace it. That's why I considered drilling and tapping the larger hole. I'm hesitant to screw it up since its a pressure vessel......

Chuck
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Old 03-06-2010, 09:31 AM
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IH - I'm surprised that the HF dryer works. My experience with it was that it knocked out some of the water droplets, but that there was still enough water carry over that I couldn't paint successfully. I ended up using that HF canister for a pre filter then a nice Sharpe 707F self draining unit right after it. This is what it looked like (disassembled now for our upcoming move) at the end of a 50 foot run:


Dave W
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Old 03-06-2010, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
IH - I'm surprised that the HF dryer works. My experience with it was that it knocked out some of the water droplets, but that there was still enough water carry over that I couldn't paint successfully. I ended up using that HF canister for a pre filter then a nice Sharpe 707F self draining unit right after it. ....


Dave W
Well, this is a brand new install. I havent used it but a couple times, and only for maybe an hour max each time. So far the pipe drops have had the majority of the water, but not much water since its been pretty low humidity lately. Only a small amount of mist so far when draining the HF unit, and I havent seen any at my air tools.

The real test will be summer heat/humidity. I may eventually end up with a different unit for drying. The big blue round HF unit is sold as a filter/regulator, not really as a dryer, though the description does say Ensure clean, dry air....

Mike
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Old 03-06-2010, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHRodder
Well, this is a brand new install. I havent used it but a couple times, and only for maybe an hour max each time. So far the pipe drops have had the majority of the water, but not much water since its been pretty low humidity lately. Only a small amount of mist so far when draining the HF unit, and I havent seen any at my air tools.

The real test will be summer heat/humidity. I may eventually end up with a different unit for drying. The big blue round HF unit is sold as a filter/regulator, not really as a dryer, though the description does say Ensure clean, dry air....

Mike

Mike - the regulator went in the trash real quick. I ended up with a better, more consistant version that isn't shown on the photo I posted - this is the original version. I ended up using this :




Then I adjust my Iwata spray gun at the inlet with this:



Obviously, there are better, more costly arrangements, but it did work for me. That POS regulator often sold with a spray gun or available at HF make close work tough (rockers. fender bottoms, etc), upsets the gun balance, are inaccurate and restrictive. With paint at $500 and (way) up a gallon, well worth my money....but, that's me

Dave W
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:31 PM
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i would suggest running as high as you can and pitch away from the compressor ,take your runs off the top off the pipe and loop back down ,drain the end of the line with a blowdown and you will hardly need a dryer but it still is a good idea to use one
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Old 03-06-2010, 08:42 PM
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I might be in luck......

I've placed a call to the IR customer support team and they are supposed to call me on Monday to tell me if I can change the tank bushing. I finally found an IR drawing that refers to the bushing so I'm gaining confidence. I've found a local industrial supply that has a 2" to 3/4" tank bushing available. That would put me on the right track.

Thanks for helping me get moving in the right direction.

Chuck
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