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Old 08-07-2005, 06:44 PM
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Another blocking questions

I could not help myself but start blocking to see how good the panel is. (I suppose to wait untill ready for paint)
I guide coat it with a cheap primer like a mist. Blocked until all the guide coat is gone and found a few low spots. Besides that I was allmost at the epoxy on the half the panel. Now I put another coat of 2K primer on it. After blocking again; If the panel is straight to satisfaction and you got a few spots going thru 2K, essipecialy around the edges; Is that ok to top coat or more primer in order?
Tired of this and wish I use some sort of polyester primer. Would be better bet I guess.
Ismail

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Old 08-07-2005, 07:07 PM
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"Breakthroughs" are usually to be avoided when blocking for final paint, depending on what's under there. It sounds like you are saying you expect to break through to a previous application of the same primer, which should be OK. If it's some other material, it could absorb solvent differently than your primer, which could leave an unsightly ring after painting that could return even after polishing.
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:28 PM
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It also depends on what color the cut thru is in relation to the primer/ top coat color relation..
A dark cut thru and a light color spells dark spot in the paint.
Example, I had a black E-coat replacement panel,shooting a beige primer/white base. Any place that was thin in the primer or cut thru showed dark and would be a drastic contrast for the paint to hide.
Small cut's at edges are not as noticeable and I've painted over them with no problem. I usually reprimer and lightly block but one or two can slip by sometimes and you find them during paint.

Poly primers don't help much at the edges so don't beat yourself over not using it. Edges are ALWAY'S thin and you will cut thru regardless of product.

Be glad your blocking now, as it usually takes a LOT longer than you think it will. Especially if you want it "Right" before paint. Most novices fail at this point as they are sick of prep work and want to see some color. Just step back and relax and finish it out right as you've worked your butt off to get to this point and getting lax now will spell disaster and that beautiful paint job you been dreaming about will still be a dream and your staring at a nightmare.
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:47 PM
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Thanks for advice guys. Cut thruu i'm talking is the epoxy under the 2K primer. Sounds like I have to cover them be realy careful when blocking around the edges.
If you have some small cut thrus here and there;
Can I use epoxy or regular sealer to seal eveything before top coat?
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:50 PM
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Thanks for advice guys. Cut thruu i'm talking is the epoxy under the 2K primer. Sounds like I have to be really careful when blocking around the edges.
If you have some small cut thru's here and there;
Can I use epoxy or regular sealer to seal eveything before top coat?
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Old 08-07-2005, 08:44 PM
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Couple things to note. I dont think you mentioned what material you are using for epoxy, 2k, etc. But you need to read the tech sheets of the materials and see what they recommend for sealing etc.

As most people will tell you, its wise to stick with a certain system from one manufacturer. So see what they say to seal with.

You talked about guide coating. Keep in mind that you should not fill everything with your 2k. If I understood you correctly you said you had done 2 coats of 2k and still had low spots??

Sounds like you might be in a postion where you need to go back and use a skim coat of filler. You dont want to end up loading up your panel with primer.

I am sure you are in anxious to get this done but dont rush it. One thing you want to remember that I was guilty of way to long. Don't try to get it smoothed out right off the bat.

First just think about "leveling" the panel and not removing all the sand scratches and making it smooth. Then SECONDLY think about making the panel smooth.

I used to chase my ***** doing this. Its hard if not impossible to level a panel with fine sandpaper. I used to think finer is better. But fine paper rides the waves and does not level. I wont use anything finer than 320 with a block when leveling now.

I only bring this up because it sounds like you have tried to get the panel perfect on both attempts.

So in my opinion... (non professional). Only think about leveling until its level and only then think about smoothing.

I HATE it when I have a "near perfect" panel and have one little hoosy and have to go back to leveling.

Like I said after hearing your comments I thought I would mention leveling.

Rich

Last edited by rrmccabe; 08-07-2005 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 08-08-2005, 06:28 PM
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Thank ypiu for the help guys.
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Old 08-08-2005, 06:29 PM
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Thank you for the help guys. I'm working on a 67 camaro had new %80 quarters on both sides. When I block the right side I found 2 area low so I had to sand allmost all the primer. Car is epoxied and body work done to it. (I tought I got it ) Then 2K primed. Now I primed again. I will blockit again to see if it is level with the guide coat. If not I have to fill those areas with filler and prime again.
I was avoiding to have a sealer on top of the 2K because of more chances to screw things up bit looks like sealer in order after I'm done blocking. And I now I will have some sand thruu here and there so I gues it is better for me to seal it.
If I use epoxy as a sealer does it have to be 2 coat or 1 coat enough.
I'm using the SPI products by the way.
Thanks guys


Sory about the previous post My finger did it by mistake
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Old 08-08-2005, 06:50 PM
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Well you can always DA down the 2K and add a little filler and recoat.

I dont know about SPI stuff although I plan to try some soon. But one thing you might be prepared for. I have had problems spraying epoxy over sanded through (feather edged) epoxy. It has a tendancy to lift. I end up spraying a coat of fill primer over these small spots to get it to stop and recoat.

Maybe Barry will chime in because my jobber is not smart enough to tell me why DP epoxy does this. I dont know if its common to all epoxies.

I would take your time at this stage to get this done. Let things cure out good for final block and then seal it. I do two coats of epoxy and then sand with 600 for basecoat.

I am a believer in allowing some time to pass between coats/materials.

Hope this helps.

Rich


PS: As you can see, I might be able to relate to you.

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Old 08-08-2005, 08:59 PM
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[QUOTE=rrmccabe]

I would take your time at this stage to get this done. Let things cure out good for final block and then seal it. I do two coats of epoxy and then sand with 600 for basecoat.

I am a believer in allowing some time to pass between coats/materials.

QUOTE]

Rich I agree, sanded epoxy makes for an awesome surface for your paint. Excellent solvent barrier and very durable. And plenty of dry time for the urethane surfacers. That Camaro is coming along nicely, did you decide if clear will be added to your singlestage? Bob
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Old 08-08-2005, 09:08 PM
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Bob,

I am close to squirting it !! But want to get a couple things out of the way first so I can take a whole day to clean, prep and mask. Then a whole day to shoot.

No, I have not decided on the clear. Would like to hear your opinion. I dont want it to look like clearcoat but if the clear would help, I am all for it. I heard it makes the final coat flow and it will buff better.

I am kinda leaning towards it because I dont think $800 is enough money for final color

Rich
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Old 08-09-2005, 03:52 PM
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wow, lots of camaro restorations going on here. just finished up a 67 firebird. just waiting for the glass to go in then i'll post up some pics.

i too use all spi stuff. as for sealer...i always spray a sealer before basecoating. makes the basecoat adhere better and reduces sanding scratches. if your using the epoxy to seal just reduce it down as stated in the tech manual(25% i think), spray one or 2 coats, let stand a couple hours then base, let stand overnight, then clear.
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Old 08-09-2005, 04:12 PM
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Well i guess thats my cue. Heres my Camaro restoration -
http://hobbystage.net/camaro/shoddyfbody/
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Old 08-09-2005, 04:29 PM
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ohhh!! holy crap thats alot of work. i dont really do alot of restos. one here and there but usually its something that the customer is restoring and they need someone to take care of the body and paintwork. i never get involved with the mechanical end of it. dont have the time or ambition. i like jobe that come in and go out in a reasonable amount of time. restorations tend to linger around for a long time and it gets me irritated.
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Old 08-09-2005, 05:12 PM
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Shoddy, that is looking great. I was lucky and had no rust to deal with but I am feeling your pain.

Here was my floor when I pulled the carpet.



After media blasting



I dont mind doing the rust repair but I am not sure I have the patience to deal with all that aftermarket sheetmetal. Looks like your stuff is fitting great but I am guessing your floor was a challenge.

I like your choice of replacement. Some guys get cut happy and remove everything at once. You did a great job leaving the right stuff and replacing as you go. I have seen a couple first generation restorations recently that 1 guy could carry the car away. I kid you not !

Anyway very nice job.

Mrclean get those pics posted. I always liked the birds. They really did not get all the exposure the camaros did but in reality they were better cars in a lot of ways. Some of the later 400's were really sleepers.

Nice to know there is other nut cases on here

Rich
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