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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2013, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Read this from Blower Drive Service...

"Flat tappet and roller cams are recommended for high performance applications especially where the engine will see high RPM's.
I'm thinking they left out Solid lifter, as in "Solid lifter flat tappet and roller cams are recommended for high performance applications especially where the engine will see high RPM's."

As long as the crank is good quality, there's not a thing inherently "wrong" w/using a longer stroke.

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Last edited by cobalt327; 01-23-2013 at 11:29 AM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2013, 01:23 PM
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That's my point. A 383 crank is not inherently bad. There are good and bad "383" cranks just like there are good/bad cranks of any stroke for any engine.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2013, 06:00 PM
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383

Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88 View Post
A 383 crank has a inherently bad design characteristic. I won't use them in a 6-71 or 8-71 roots blown
motor, specificly, because of this. I'll build a 355 (thats just as powerfull and more reliable) or a 4.125" bore 400 block based 377 or a 406. Or go 427-454 BBC based.

I'd trust a stock cast GM 350 crank more than a 383 stroker crank in a roots blown application.

Engine builders will sell you what ever you want, cause thats what you want.
If they don't or won't, the next shop down the street will...so...

But....

If someone comes to me and wants me to build them a 383 stroker motor for a roots supercharger, I will pass on it. No thankyou.. I'll offer to build a equally power full 355 based roots blown sbc motor or a roots blown BBC or not at all.
first question, "why"?

second question: how do "you" build a 355 equal in power to a larger 383?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2013, 06:40 PM
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Normaly the crank is not the weak link, the bolts and caps usually give up and crank gets blamed ,i agree with F bird on 383 ,mine is a two bolt big block ,but i have arp studs not bolts also billett caps knife edged crank,lightned and balanced with mallory I dont anticapet any problems with 7.9 cr alum heads and pump gas, Streetdriver, if you see this on trailor report it stolen.

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Old 01-23-2013, 07:50 PM
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I do have a mid 70's block 4 bolt never been bored that I can use for this build, but just thought when buying a $2000 rotating assembly is another 1500 for a block to protect it all that much? Will a mid 70's 4 bolt take 650 hp? I would think so but always that hint of doubt. Also u mention 8-71 on sbc, is that not to big for sbc? This is all going in 87 monte ss 9" 3.89 spool, coilovers, 8 point cage, notched frame, 3" exhaust with 1 3/4 hooker headers. This car is mainly for show and street but does hit the track a few times a year. Only drive it 2 times a month if I'm lucky.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:28 PM
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A Properly machined and preped 4 bolt with aftermarket caps or straps,ARP studs in mains ,arp cap screw in good prepared forged rods ,something like C&A bearings ,high quality pistons ,good solid roller cam with maching springs & kit will live at that level.when i say Live engine producing this much horsepower has a SHORTER life than say 400 hp Also i think a $1500 assembly will not cut it.
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Old 01-23-2013, 11:50 PM
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way to much mass out front blower is already puttn a strain on the end without that damn big counter weight on the end of the crankhub then adding pulleys to turn other things really puts it out there. externally balanced I stay away from. blown or not
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