[knighthawk]

You mention the picture, that reminds me, I got such a picture somewhere , I just forgot about it. Thanks for reminding me, I think I'll take some pictures, differernt angles and such................ thanks

[knighthawk]

re. '48 Dodge chop job, I got the actual chop figured out, but I don't think I can drop the rear window as much as I want, cause of the sharp curve in it . Question : how do i figure out what window has less curve and will lay flater without going to the junk yard and wandering around ? Also is the junk yard going to let me cut out the back of a roof ? Then, how do I do that with only hand tools ?????

[home brew]

Originally Posted by knighthawk

re. '48 Dodge chop job, I got the actual chop figured out, but I don't think I can drop the rear window as much as I want, cause of the sharp curve in it . Question : how do i figure out what window has less curve and will lay flater without going to the junk yard and wandering around ? Also is the junk yard going to let me cut out the back of a roof ? Then, how do I do that with only hand tools ?????

Good to hear you think you have it figured out.

I guess to find a window with less curve without going to the junk yard you could go to the carnut web site and check out the pics of late 30's and $0's rear windows until you find something that might work.

A junk yard is there to make money and so they should let you cut out a back window or take the whole roof.

As far as how to do it with only hand tools - Most junk yards will probably cut it off for you with their torch though. If not go to your local home reno store and rent a cordless drill and a reciprocating saw and cut away.

Good luck.

[knighthawk]

Rent a battery reciprocating saw ! Good idea ! thanks (sounds like another excuse to buy more tools ) I guess , if this was easy, there would be no challange !!

[35WINDOW]

You know just looking at your rear Window (in the picture) and the likely candidates for replacement-what about a 50's to early 60's VW bug rear Window (they were kinda the same shape). Also, would it be possible to just lower your rear Window instead of cutting it, or do you want that look?

With regard to when you cut your actual Roof (the one on your Dodge)-I am right in the middle of my Chop right now, and will tell you that I am not a big fan of using a Sawzall for the cuts (although I'm sure there are guys here who love them)-it's just too radical for me to finesse, so I tried every idea I could think of( air powered Hacksaw (good for the thin stuff), a regular Hacksaw (o.k., but really slow), a 3" air powered Cutoff Saw (good, but doesn't go very deep), a 7" Grinder with a Cut-off Wheel (really heavy and hard to control), and my Milwaukee 4 1/2" Grinder with a thin Cut-off Wheel (the best choice for me).

I found that the Sawzall will grip and tear when going through thick stuff like Door Posts (that have multiple layers of Metal) and "B" Pillars. I used the 4 1/2" (had all of my cut lines taped and marked), went through all four corners of the Posts and it would go through about 95% of anything I had to cut like Butter, do a nice straight initial cut, then I would use the Sawzall to finish the deep stuff. I also have to lengthen the Roof, and I bought a Donor Roof to do so-

Good luck, and when I was contemplating my Chop someone here said to plan, plan, plan-I spent a tremendous amount of time in research and if nothing else I was more comfortable when I picked up a Saw (that was the scariest part for me-cutting up a perfectly good Roof).
It sounds like you are getting it figured out-there was an Article in Street Rodder about Fatman Fabrications doing a '40 Sedan (which is a little different), but they had some of the same issues you are having-you might consider reading it-it might give you some ideas.

[home brew]

I agree with 35WINDOW about using the reciprocating saw for detail work. I was only suggesting using it to get your donor roof or window off of the donor car and out of the junk yard. Leave as much metal as possible around what you are cutting off at the junk yard and trim it to size when you get it home.

[Nightfire]

How about making it a hard top and scrapping the B pillars all together?


Mike

[knighthawk]

well, where I'm at is....In addition to the 3'' chop, I want to flatten or remove the hump at the top of the rear window by laying it down and spreading it out, but, I'm going to be limited by the cuve of the glass, as to how much I can lower the center and still keep the cuve near the the drip rail. It's also the 4 dr suicide doors, but, I'm not worried about the pillars, it's just the hump at the top !.........thanks

[knighthawk]

Normally when hammer-welding , if you cool it as you go,with air or water, do you still have to hammer it ? If you hammer it, do you still have to cool it?

[knighthawk]

Just thought I'd let you guys know that I did the ''chop job'' on my '48 Dodge. I do have some photos of it, but have problems getting them posted. If any one is intrested, let me know............meantime .....I'd like to thank all you members for helping me along !

[35WINDOW]

Originally Posted by knighthawk

Normally when hammer-welding , if you cool it as you go,with air or water, do you still have to hammer it ? If you hammer it, do you still have to cool it?

In my experience (which isn't unlimited), I think there is more than one definition (today) of Hammer Welding-my understanding is that with the original Hammer Welding that you would Oxy-Ace Weld the area, then re-heat and Hammer out the shrinkage-now, there are those who will say that you should Hammer while the area is still Hot from the Weld, and that does take some practice, but it will work (if you are using Oxy/Ace).

One of the other ideas is to use a Tig (which generally will leave a small Weld Bead), and Hammer the Weld (Planish it). One idea that has come out in the last year or so (from Randy Ferguson) was to Mig the Weld, grind the proud Bead down to about .050 on BOTH SIDES, and the Hammer it flat (stretch it). I have used the Tig method and the Mig method, and both work. There was a feeling that using a Mig (or the Mig process) was creating a "Hard" weld, but in reality, Mig and Tig can both use essentially the same Rod (ER70S6), so I believe it was Randy who first figured it out. I love to use my Tig, but it definitely will shrink the Metal more than a properly used Mig Weld (more Heat). Hope this helps-

Glad to hear you did the deed! Can't wait to see the pictures!

[knighthawk]

I did just happen to read some of Randy's stuff and did get in contact with him. Sounds easy , Now, all I have to do ,is do it ! I just get a little nervous doing a large area ......... Another member offered to help me out with the pictures, they should be available soon ....

[home brew]

knighthawk sent me 10 pics which I downloaded and resized: Here are the first five; I hope I get them in the right order.

[home brew]

And here are the last five.

[home brew]

Oviously here were only four. This one should have been in the middle of the above four to make the five.