another chop job - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2007, 06:12 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: kansas
Age: 68
Posts: 515
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You mention the picture, that reminds me, I got such a picture somewhere , I just forgot about it. Thanks for reminding me, I think I'll take some pictures, differernt angles and such................ thanks

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2007, 09:50 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: kansas
Age: 68
Posts: 515
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
re. '48 Dodge chop job, I got the actual chop figured out, but I don't think I can drop the rear window as much as I want, cause of the sharp curve in it . Question : how do i figure out what window has less curve and will lay flater without going to the junk yard and wandering around ? Also is the junk yard going to let me cut out the back of a roof ? Then, how do I do that with only hand tools ?????
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2007, 12:11 AM
home brew's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Body and exterior tips Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pense, Sk, Canada
Age: 68
Posts: 7,050
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by knighthawk
re. '48 Dodge chop job, I got the actual chop figured out, but I don't think I can drop the rear window as much as I want, cause of the sharp curve in it . Question : how do i figure out what window has less curve and will lay flater without going to the junk yard and wandering around ? Also is the junk yard going to let me cut out the back of a roof ? Then, how do I do that with only hand tools ?????
Good to hear you think you have it figured out.

I guess to find a window with less curve without going to the junk yard you could go to the carnut web site and check out the pics of late 30's and $0's rear windows until you find something that might work.

A junk yard is there to make money and so they should let you cut out a back window or take the whole roof.

As far as how to do it with only hand tools - Most junk yards will probably cut it off for you with their torch though. If not go to your local home reno store and rent a cordless drill and a reciprocating saw and cut away.

Good luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2007, 09:17 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: kansas
Age: 68
Posts: 515
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rent a battery reciprocating saw ! Good idea ! thanks (sounds like another excuse to buy more tools ) I guess , if this was easy, there would be no challange !!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2007, 09:49 AM
35WINDOW's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Dash Mock-up
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: utah
Age: 59
Posts: 1,414
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 9
Thanked 31 Times in 27 Posts
You know just looking at your rear Window (in the picture) and the likely candidates for replacement-what about a 50's to early 60's VW bug rear Window (they were kinda the same shape). Also, would it be possible to just lower your rear Window instead of cutting it, or do you want that look?

With regard to when you cut your actual Roof (the one on your Dodge)-I am right in the middle of my Chop right now, and will tell you that I am not a big fan of using a Sawzall for the cuts (although I'm sure there are guys here who love them)-it's just too radical for me to finesse, so I tried every idea I could think of( air powered Hacksaw (good for the thin stuff), a regular Hacksaw (o.k., but really slow), a 3" air powered Cutoff Saw (good, but doesn't go very deep), a 7" Grinder with a Cut-off Wheel (really heavy and hard to control), and my Milwaukee 4 1/2" Grinder with a thin Cut-off Wheel (the best choice for me).

I found that the Sawzall will grip and tear when going through thick stuff like Door Posts (that have multiple layers of Metal) and "B" Pillars. I used the 4 1/2" (had all of my cut lines taped and marked), went through all four corners of the Posts and it would go through about 95% of anything I had to cut like Butter, do a nice straight initial cut, then I would use the Sawzall to finish the deep stuff. I also have to lengthen the Roof, and I bought a Donor Roof to do so-

Good luck, and when I was contemplating my Chop someone here said to plan, plan, plan-I spent a tremendous amount of time in research and if nothing else I was more comfortable when I picked up a Saw (that was the scariest part for me-cutting up a perfectly good Roof).
It sounds like you are getting it figured out-there was an Article in Street Rodder about Fatman Fabrications doing a '40 Sedan (which is a little different), but they had some of the same issues you are having-you might consider reading it-it might give you some ideas.

Last edited by 35WINDOW; 01-26-2007 at 10:00 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2007, 11:17 AM
home brew's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Body and exterior tips Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pense, Sk, Canada
Age: 68
Posts: 7,050
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I agree with 35WINDOW about using the reciprocating saw for detail work. I was only suggesting using it to get your donor roof or window off of the donor car and out of the junk yard. Leave as much metal as possible around what you are cutting off at the junk yard and trim it to size when you get it home.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2007, 11:20 AM
Nightfire's Avatar
Young & Idealistic
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild an engine
Last journal entry: 1950 Fargo - losing hope
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Canada
Age: 26
Posts: 1,192
Wiki Edits: 4

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How about making it a hard top and scrapping the B pillars all together?


Mike
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-26-2007, 12:37 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: kansas
Age: 68
Posts: 515
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
well, where I'm at is....In addition to the 3'' chop, I want to flatten or remove the hump at the top of the rear window by laying it down and spreading it out, but, I'm going to be limited by the cuve of the glass, as to how much I can lower the center and still keep the cuve near the the drip rail. It's also the 4 dr suicide doors, but, I'm not worried about the pillars, it's just the hump at the top !.........thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2007, 01:04 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: kansas
Age: 68
Posts: 515
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Normally when hammer-welding , if you cool it as you go,with air or water, do you still have to hammer it ? If you hammer it, do you still have to cool it?

Last edited by knighthawk; 01-27-2007 at 09:59 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 09:28 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: kansas
Age: 68
Posts: 515
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Just thought I'd let you guys know that I did the ''chop job'' on my '48 Dodge. I do have some photos of it, but have problems getting them posted. If any one is intrested, let me know............meantime .....I'd like to thank all you members for helping me along !
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 10:37 AM
35WINDOW's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: Dash Mock-up
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: utah
Age: 59
Posts: 1,414
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 9
Thanked 31 Times in 27 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by knighthawk
Normally when hammer-welding , if you cool it as you go,with air or water, do you still have to hammer it ? If you hammer it, do you still have to cool it?

In my experience (which isn't unlimited), I think there is more than one definition (today) of Hammer Welding-my understanding is that with the original Hammer Welding that you would Oxy-Ace Weld the area, then re-heat and Hammer out the shrinkage-now, there are those who will say that you should Hammer while the area is still Hot from the Weld, and that does take some practice, but it will work (if you are using Oxy/Ace).

One of the other ideas is to use a Tig (which generally will leave a small Weld Bead), and Hammer the Weld (Planish it). One idea that has come out in the last year or so (from Randy Ferguson) was to Mig the Weld, grind the proud Bead down to about .050 on BOTH SIDES, and the Hammer it flat (stretch it). I have used the Tig method and the Mig method, and both work. There was a feeling that using a Mig (or the Mig process) was creating a "Hard" weld, but in reality, Mig and Tig can both use essentially the same Rod (ER70S6), so I believe it was Randy who first figured it out. I love to use my Tig, but it definitely will shrink the Metal more than a properly used Mig Weld (more Heat). Hope this helps-

Glad to hear you did the deed! Can't wait to see the pictures!

Last edited by 35WINDOW; 02-02-2007 at 10:43 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 10:53 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: kansas
Age: 68
Posts: 515
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I did just happen to read some of Randy's stuff and did get in contact with him. Sounds easy , Now, all I have to do ,is do it ! I just get a little nervous doing a large area ......... Another member offered to help me out with the pictures, they should be available soon ....
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 11:10 PM
home brew's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Body and exterior tips Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pense, Sk, Canada
Age: 68
Posts: 7,050
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
knighthawk sent me 10 pics which I downloaded and resized: Here are the first five; I hope I get them in the right order.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk1r.jpg
Views:	352
Size:	250.7 KB
ID:	18133   Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk2r.jpg
Views:	376
Size:	232.6 KB
ID:	18134   Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk3r.jpg
Views:	405
Size:	248.2 KB
ID:	18135   Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk4r.jpg
Views:	376
Size:	213.4 KB
ID:	18136   Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk5r.jpg
Views:	424
Size:	232.2 KB
ID:	18137  

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 11:13 PM
home brew's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Body and exterior tips Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pense, Sk, Canada
Age: 68
Posts: 7,050
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
And here are the last five.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk6r.jpg
Views:	404
Size:	243.2 KB
ID:	18138   Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk7r.jpg
Views:	289
Size:	233.4 KB
ID:	18139   Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk9r.jpg
Views:	353
Size:	282.0 KB
ID:	18141   Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk10r.jpg
Views:	321
Size:	244.5 KB
ID:	18142  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-02-2007, 11:21 PM
home brew's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Body and exterior tips Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pense, Sk, Canada
Age: 68
Posts: 7,050
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Oviously here were only four. This one should have been in the middle of the above four to make the five.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	knighthawk8r.jpg
Views:	278
Size:	246.2 KB
ID:	18144  

Last edited by home brew; 02-02-2007 at 11:32 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
chop 1932 ford pick up wizard1932 Body - Exterior 3 05-18-2009 09:28 PM
TOP CHOP Bill Corum Body - Exterior 3 08-10-2008 11:29 AM
To Chop or not to Chop 1931 steve Body - Exterior 23 03-20-2008 11:23 AM
top chop, and channelling advice? rlackey Body - Exterior 8 08-19-2005 03:25 AM
How much for a nice paint job? Elevinpointsixtoone Body - Exterior 18 12-21-2004 07:13 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.