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another chop job

134K views 373 replies 32 participants last post by  knight hawk 
#1 ·
I know there are alot of ''chop'' threads and questions, but... I'd like to know if anyone has chopped a "48 Dodge 4dr post " with suicide doors,. I did a pick up once , so I know the basics. Question is, with the center door posts, I'm assuming the top can't can't be shifted ???
 
#77 ·
Back in the day - late 50's - a couple of guys I knew about apparently ran manual choke cables from the opening mechanism through the door and pillar and mounted then in the fender wells. One guy even retained one stock door lock key in the door.

Here is a couple of links on installing newer recessed door handles in older cars. They will give you some ideas you can play with.

http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/1982_chevy_camaro_auto_paint/index1.html

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/howto/55343/

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#79 ·
knighthawk said:
O K , guys, I'm smoothing and filling the body right now, what or how do i do the the shaved door handles ? With out going electric ! Some kind of flush or recessed handle, AND using thre same door latches !
One cool way of doing it is to run the cable straight down thru the door post and floor. Attatch it to a paddle peddle located under the car, simply slide your toes under the running board or rocker pannel and lift the peddle to release the door latch. Some strong door poppers will help with the effect.
 
#85 ·
For legal height check with your DOT. Accepted height - above the scrub line. As I don't know the length of the body in front of the front wheels I can't even give you a ball park figure. Just remember that you have to go down and over the gutters of the road to get into parking lots, etc. If you can figure out what that slope is and use some trigonometry (always wondered when you would use it didn't you) you will be able to figure out how low you can go. Or you could just mount casters under the bumper.

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#87 ·
Home Brew nailed it. The first time out with a freshly chromed bumper I got hung up going out of a grocery store parking lot in Bountiful Utah. And no that one wasn't quite above the scrub line.

Figure what roads you will do 90% of your driving on and go from there.
 
#92 ·
Great Job Knighthawk!!! :thumbup: I like the way you got that rear window down. Quite a project, right? It looks like it was well worth the effort to me. Are you going to seal up the rear quarter windows? Or can you make them pop out like the originals? Im so used to seeing my sons Plymouth it looks normal to me. LOL Just goes to show what can be cool with a little imagination and hard work. Keep the pics coming. If you need any help with them let me know. Again, Great Job!!!
 
#93 ·
the rear quarter windows are still functional. I think it took longer to cut down and reshape these two windows than it did to chop the roof ! It was quite a task to reshape the opening, the window frame, and the trim or garnish mould ing on the inside, and the chrome trim on the outside.
 
#94 ·
Its the attention to the little details Ie. garnish, and window moldings that really make the chop flow. Ive seen several chops where the chop looks pretty good, but for what ever reason the finish work fell short. Guess what everybody stops and points at? It just un does all the good looks of a good chop. Those windows look good, and it is worth all the work. I know, and can appreciate the time and effort involved. Keep going! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
#95 ·
well, this is just the first cost of primer ( epoxy ), just to see the general look of the car. Now getting ready to take it apart (again !) and give it another sanding job, the some flat black . Things I need to decide on yet : front bumper, (and rear ) what grill , and how do I make the filler strip for the back ? a compound curved strip without any fancy tools ???
 
#96 ·
knighthawk said:
well, this is just the first cost of primer ( epoxy ), just to see the general look of the car. Now getting ready to take it apart (again !) and give it another sanding job, the some flat black . Things I need to decide on yet : front bumper, (and rear ) what grill , and how do I make the filler strip for the back ? a compound curved strip without any fancy tools ???
Im fortunate iv got the cool tools for that stuff. I did a quick filler piece for my sons car just to see how it would work. It looked OK! I need to make another piece for the same place as yours. for me its just about as easy to make two at a time. If your interested i'll make a couple of them, take a pic and shoot it to you. If you like it I can mail it to you and you just pay freight? no hurry, if it sounds good pm me.
 
#97 · (Edited)
knighthawk said:
Things I need to decide on yet : front bumper, (and rear ) what grill , and how do I make the filler strip for the back ? a compound curved strip without any fancy tools ???
My thoughts.

Bumpers - 51 Plymouth, 37 DeSotoe, 36 Buick. Any of the ribbed designs.

Grill - possibly use openings similar to the lower grilles of the 41 ford (except a bit bigger and more rounded with an extension of the hood that drops to the top of the original opening and the gracefully curves inward to a narrow bar between the grilles. You could make up the grille bars from round or square bar and sink them into the opening so they float there.

The pic of the 41 Ford is from the carnut site.

Another interesting treatment would be something similar to cefolar's ride.

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#99 · (Edited)
I dunno, that looks pretty close to the perfect chop for that model of car in my book, whoo hoo.
I'd be proud to wheel that one into a rod trot for sure.

All I can say is stay to the theme you have going :thumbup:

Maybe a set of "Briz" ribbed bumpers. They aren't that cheap but with the cost of buying a decent used set and having them redone the cost evens out.

I'm not sure on the grill mods, I'll have to dwell on that a bit.
A trimmed down 49/50 Merc grill shell might work with a floating grill bar but it would be a lot of work to mold in right. Anything you mold in is going to make the whole front end sheet metal one piece.
 
#100 · (Edited)
I realize that molding the grill opening will be very hard to do AND still be able to take the fenders off , BUT there must be a way, challange is going to be to make it look right !.............I'm thinking... what I will need , is a grill (oval ) that has the outer ring as part of it, so it can be removed or unbolted to separate from the fenders ????
 
#101 ·
smoothing

the body is painted with Nason's brand epoxy primer. Now I have to go back and smoothen it and remove a lot of sanding marks, Question : do I have to sand or scuff the epoxy primer first, to get the glazing putty and or more ''sanding primer '' too stick ? ...........as usual......thanks
 
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