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Old 07-01-2011, 05:49 PM
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Another current draw problem when off.

Got my '35 back from the upholstery shop battery goes dead overnight. Put my ammeter online with the battery & shows I'm drawing 3 amps with the key off BUT when I switch the key to accessory no draw!! Pulled all the fuses & it still shows 3 amp draw so switched alternators & tested the old one...same problem. two different batteries, two different alternators, same problem. I have nothing on accessory as no stereo, no elect doors etc. It's a GM style column with the key in column. Somehow the key off & accessory got switched but how??? Can't leave it like this as I can't get the key out on accessory though I have a temporary kill switch until this gets solved.

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Old 07-01-2011, 06:31 PM
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sounds like a melted ignition switch, take a good look at the switch part to see if there is any evidence of melting.Thats where I would look first
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:18 AM
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Did this happen after upholstery had it's way, what did you have done? I would check the area the work was done in. Look at the base of the steering column and around there. latech makes a good case for the ignition switch however i ask was this the way it was before the shop had it. Seems a stretch but not impossible that it was ok before the work was done and now it is toast.


What would be live with the ing. in the off position, answer brake lights, flashers, head lights, interior lights door activated, glove box, cig lighter these might give you some more places to check. Good luck let us know what you find.
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Old 07-03-2011, 10:08 AM
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If its like my GM column, there is a wide, flat wire junction on the lower part of the column, located above your right foot when you are driving. I would unplug this junction and make the same tests. This is the easiest way to determine if the problem is in the switch or in the wiring of the vehicle, since you have separated it into two different parts to troubleshoot.

Its also possible that they pulled that junction or another wire junction apart when they were working the carpet up the firewall under the dash, and did not get it plugged back together right. I had that problem when I replaced my turn signal switch and the plug on the new switch did not plug into the stock wiring correctly. In my case I think there were about 8 wires and only 7 of 8 matched up correctly when I plugged in the new harness.

Bruce
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Old 07-03-2011, 11:14 AM
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Also check for underhood, glovebox, trunk lites that might be staying on. Although all three of those probably wouldn't draw 3 amps total, it might be something to check.

Make sure the seats weren't bolted down on top of a wire. That usually blows a fuse but could also be a slow draw.

Check all firewall penetrations for bare spots on the wires, should be in a grommet, but you never know.

Check wiring under the car to make sure some critter hasn't bared a wire, or a wire against a hot exhaust pipe, etc.

And of course under the hood for wires touching something hot.

But, as mentioned before, sounds like a bad ignition switch.
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Old 07-03-2011, 05:18 PM
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Well, I've never had a gm column with a functional in column key b4 so watching my ammeter & giggling things I found a rod that goes down from the key area to a switch mounted on the side of the column. Viola...problem solved. It has slotted holes for adjustment & must have gotten moved during the interior work. Simple 30 second fix after 4 hrs+ of testing & head scratching!! Thanks for the input guys.
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Old 07-03-2011, 06:36 PM
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How’s that hopey-changey thing
 
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Way to go I figured it would be something along those lines, anytime a new problem pops up after a repair or upgrade always go back and start there. Good old troubleshooting 101 ..
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:55 PM
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These threads work in so many ways.Followed Your wiki link & top dead center find is also an area I have to get to so thanks again!
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