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Old 03-30-2009, 05:42 PM
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another lean edelbrock.

so i have about 1200 miles on my new engine..it is a mild 355. xe268 cam, flat top pistons, stock vortec heads, performer rpm intake and of course the performer 600cfm electric choke edelbrock carb.

i have read in a few articles about how crummy gas is these days and after about 1000 miles on my car my pipes had not started to tan out...so i decided to try some better gas...110 octane torco (performance gasolines). after about 50 miles with torco in there my pipes instantly started to turn white. i did this because i had some suspicion to a lean feeling at wot. and i have read in many articles that the 1406 edelbrock is staged lean out of the box for economy. and guess what fuel economy is not what i am trying to achieve with this engine i want power. and yes i know a million people will tell me to get a holley i already have the edelbrock and i want to make it run right on the car. i have purchased the metering kit from edelbrock for this carb and my question is...

i have the timing tuned it with a crane advance kit and its all in at 2800 rpms.

so now what combination should i richen it up to. which springs rods and jets should i switch out too. i have read the manual and it just confuses me haha wondering if anyone has a similar engine build and had the same issues and what they did to make the carb tweak in better. i have already adjusted the floats they were way off. so next step is the metering kit...i would assume.

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Old 03-30-2009, 06:05 PM
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What is the part number on the calibration kit box?
What plugs, what timing idle, full advance.....
fuel pressure at idle must be 5 to 6psi. Not over 6psi.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:08 PM
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ede1487 is the part number on the kit. r45lts for the vortec heads. 14 degrees idle timing. 34 total timing all in at 2800 rpms...

no clue on the fuel psi..i have read about the need for a fuel pressure regulator with edelbrocks..but i have a mere stock gm mechanical fuel pump and figured it couldnt push any more than 6 psi. unless i am wrong but ive never checked

Last edited by studlyrocker1234; 03-30-2009 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:28 PM
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yes, 1406 carb is jetted leaner than 1405, but it's easily adjustable, your on the right track with the calibration kit.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:30 PM
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It will run better with more idle timing 16- 18 to 20 but needs the same 32 to 36deg total. That requires limiting the advance travel as in my other recent posts. More inital =good, excessive total = bad.

Carb:::::: move the out of the box .098" primary jet to the secondary side.
instal .101" primary jets. stock .075 X .047 rod .
Change the spark plugs to a R42LTS AC Delco or a Champion RS12YC gap at .035"

If it only wants 32deg total then only give it 32. Do not guess, use a timing light.
Should be 32 to 36deg BTDC.
The R45LTS plugs are ok for a stock vortec truck motor but are a bit too hot for high performance work. Keep the R45's for spares.
If this is still not rich enough go to a .071 x .047 rod. or a .073 x .047 rod.

May want to try a larger accelerator pump shooter nozzle. (.035") and play with the accel linkage.
Again these carbs love idle timing but don;t get carried away with the total timing.
These changes should put some colour on the plugs.
The 600eddy is harder to dial in than the 750 #1407.

bypass the stock mechanical fuel pump and install a Carter #P4594 electric fuel pump at the back near the gas tank. and a regulator set to 5PSI at the carb. use 3/8" fuel line tank to carb. It will be a whole different beast.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-30-2009 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:35 PM
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sweet thanks for the advice.
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:43 PM
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Are you using the banjo style fuel inlet fitting?
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Old 03-30-2009, 06:46 PM
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i have no clue what ya mean...it actually has a 4" section of rubber hose clamped to a nipple on the carb side and to the steel line on the other end...haha so i guess its just a nipple fitting...i know kind of rigged..but i just bought the car last spring and havent found time to bend a new ALL steel like for it. also i guess im not positive on how to limit the total mechanical advance timing...i am running a vacuum advance also...you must mean limit the advance with the vacuum i guess the more i think about it i get what you mean crank the vaccuum in so it can only advance so much and let the weights do the rest

i actually just ran out and checked i am running the r42 plugs..

Last edited by studlyrocker1234; 03-30-2009 at 07:04 PM.
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:36 PM
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what is the advantage of an electric fuel pump? i bet i could learn a lot from you...haha i am only 19 and this is my first high performance engine...just tryin to get the sl*t tweaked in ya know.
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:48 PM
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No I mean limit the mechanical advacne so you can run the required base timing at idle and correct total timing at high rpm, Then also limit and customize the vacuum advacne. Stock distributors are not set up for performance. You have to do it yourself. The stock GM fuel pump and in tank pick up tube and stock fuel line will not feed this motor upgrade from tank pick up to rear mounted elec pump (carter 4594) to carb with 3/8" fuel line and a hi flow 3/8" inline paper element filter the pump is 7-8 psi, the carb only like 5 psi but like lots of flow.. Use a holley fuel presssure ragulator. Adjust to 5LBS at idle.
Don't think what I am saying read the posts its all there.

read (search) my old posts on how to limit the advance curve.
Google image banjo fitting. If yours looks like this It must be "clocked" so the holes line up inside.
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Old 03-30-2009, 07:53 PM
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ok i get what ur saying...sounds good to me i will try her out and let everyone know how she goes
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:21 AM
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Sorry for bringing up this old thread but i have a question. I have your almost exact engine 355 vortec heads, xe268, weiand intake, eddy 1406 headers etc. I was wondering if you did the jetting and rod changes and how it affected your power. Ive got a 1406 thats all stock and my engine tapers off at 4k which is where its supposed to come alive. Any thoughts?
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:10 PM
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sounds like your motor is choking try a bigger carb
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1986c10
Sorry for bringing up this old thread but i have a question. I have your almost exact engine 355 vortec heads, xe268, weiand intake, eddy 1406 headers etc. I was wondering if you did the jetting and rod changes and how it affected your power. Ive got a 1406 thats all stock and my engine tapers off at 4k which is where its supposed to come alive. Any thoughts?
Yes well the 1406 is a tad light out of the box. Use the chart from the manual and change the rods first for a richer AFR, you may need to do both rods and jets. Also that cam has some really agressive ramp rates. Hopefully the valve springs on the heads are a match? weak springs with that cam especially can cause it to fall short on power at higher RPM.

2 more of my cents
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:59 PM
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I always find these Edelbrock posts so helpful!

I've been playing with my Eddy 600 on my truck (81 C10, 2wd, 60-over 350, XE268, Dart Iron Eagle S/S heads, headers, Dart II (World) Sportsman dual-plane, Mallory HEI, TH350, 3.40 12 bolt) and by rebuilding it, changing the accel pump and it's position on the pump crank lever, going to a thinner rod and heavier rod springs, my truck is SO much better at part-throttle driving. I want to improve my WOT performance though, to get down my 1/4 mile times. I think I have to look at changing jets now.
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